
aass F5\97 
Ronk ,W S i 



^^^t^M 



THE 



GOLDEN NORTHWEST; 



COMPLIMENTS OF 

AV^. D. FRENCH, 

Eastern Pass. Agent, C, M. & St. Paul R'y, 



Northern Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa, 
Dakota, Montana and Manitoba. 



^ 



y 



G-OLIDSIvailTiEI B. 'WTEST, 



A':'^: 






lilrofueehj SUustratei. V^ '■•<'„ 



CHICAGO: 

The Rollins Publishing Company. 

1878. 



INDEX. 



Algona, la 96 

American Insurance Co 116 

Appleton, Wis 21 

Austin, Minn 91 

Bangor, Wis 49 

Beaver Dam, Wis 17 

Benton Harbor, Midi Ill 

Big Horn Country 102 

Bismarck, Da 99 

Black HiUs 99 

Brainerd, Minn 90 

Calmar, la 94 

Canada Southern Kailway 114 

Clear Lake, la 96 

Chicago, lU 103 

Chicago & Michigan Lake Shore K. R . . 108 
Chicago, Alton & St. Louis Railway. . .115 

Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific 115 

Cresco, la 95 

Dakota 96 

Deadwood, Da 101 

Decorah, la 94 

Delafield, Wis 31 

Dells of the Wisconsin 37 

Detroit, Minn 90 

Duluth, Mmn 89 

Faribault, Minn 91 

Fargo, Da 98 

Fond du Lac, Wis 20 

Fort Snelling, Mmn 69 

Fox Lake, Wis 36 

Frontenac, Minn 62 

Gifford, Wis 31 

Grand Trunk Railway 114 

Great Western Railway 114 

Hartland, Wis 31 

Hastings, Minn 64 

Hoosac Tunnel Route 112 

Horicon Junction 17 

Introductorj^ 5 

Iowa, Sketch of 93 

Janes\-ille, Wis 15 

Kilbourn City, Wis 37 

La Crosse, Wis 49 

Lake Minnetonka, Minn 85 

Lake Pepm 57 



Lake Shore & Michigan Southern R'y ..113 

Lakeside, Wis 31 

Lime Springs, la 95 

Madison, Wis 26 

Manitoba 96 

Manitowoc, Wis 22 

McGregor, la 93 

Mason City, la 95 

Mauston, AVis 46 

Menasha, Wis 21 

Michigan Central Railway 113 

Middleton, Wis 27 

Milton, Wis 25 

Milwaukee, Wis 11 

Minneapolis, Minn 71 

Minnesota, Sketch of 54 

Minnehaha Falls, Mmn 69 

Monroe, Wis 15 

Montana 96 

Moorhead, Da 98 

Nashotah, Wis 31 

Neenah, Wis 21 

Northfleld, Mmn 92 

Oconomowoc, Wis 32 

Oshkosh, Wis 19 

Portage City, Wis 35 

Prairie du Chien 28 

Preface 3 

Red Wing, Mmn 62 

Ripon, Wis 18 

SchlesingervUle, Wis 16 

Sheboygan, Wis 22 

Sparta, Wis 47 

St. Joseph, Mich 110 

St. Paul, Minn 64 

Tiffany, H. C. & Co 116 

Tomah, Wis 47 

Two Rivers, Wis 22 

Wabasha, Minn 56 

Watertown, Wis 34 

Waukesha, Wis 14 

Waupun, Wis 16 

WMte Bear Lake, Mum 87 

Winona, Mirni 56 

Winneconne, Wis 19 

Wisconsin, Sketch of 8 



Berg & McCann, Printers, 161 La Salle Street, Chicago. 



PREFACE. 



Notwithstanding all that has l)een said, sung, and written about the 
new American Empire in the Golden North-West, that rich and wonder- 
ful region is to-day comparatively little understood or appreciated, in a 
practical way, by the masses of the people, especially in the far eastern 
states. Even yet the glamour of border romance lingers in every allu- 
sion to the older portions of the section, where civilization has almost 
blotted out the memory of pioneer days, and the honest farmer t)f New 
England believes now that the man who raises corn in Minnesota is in 
constant danger of himself becoming an Indian meal. It is true that 
the comparatively recent discoveries of precious metals in the still wild 
districts of Dakota and Montana, the extension of the Northern Pacific 
R. R., the surprising development of the country along the lines of the 
Milwaukee and St. Paul road in Wisconsin and Minnesota, and other 
allied causes, have within a few years done much to spread the knowl- 
edge among the people of these states and territories, teeming with 
resources of every description calculated to excite the acquisitive energy 
and industry of man. But, after all, the Golden North- West with its 
rich prairies, its stately forests, its mountains of gold and silver, its 
mighty rivers and crystal lakes, its vast stock ranges ; scenery unequaled 
in the world for beauty and grandeur ; flora and fauna so diversified, 
extended and abundant as to cover all the wants of our race ; its hills, 
valleys and streams, the paradise of the hunter and the angler, and its 
railroads, steamers, mills and factories — of all this enough remains un- 
known to render further and reliable information concerning it of prac- 
tical value to the civilized v;orld. It is the want of such information 
that the publishers of the Golden North-West have undertaken to supply. 

The growth of that portion of our country, including the adjoining 
British province of Manitoba, which we have called "The Golden North- 
West," has been truly miraculous! Of Wisconsin, Iowa, Minnesota, 
Dakota, and Montana, it may be said that their whole history under 
civilization is spanned by the recollections of people yet living,' while of 
the newer sections, included in the list, a few% a very few years covers 
the complete record of their development. Of the states and territories 
mentioned, only Wisconsin and Iowa appear in the census of 1840, with 
populations respectively of 30,945, and 43,112, or only 74.057 whites in 
all this great division of the country. At the next census, 1850, Min- 
nesota was added to the list, with the modest return of 6,077 popula- 



tion. Meantime Wisconsin and Iowa had increased to 305,391, and 
192,214. Dakota appeared in the censns of 1860 with 4,837, its elder 
sisters showing rapid gains during the previous decade ; and finally, in 
1870, Montana was added to the list, all of which, taken together with 
Manitoba, expresses geographically the Golden Noi-th-West of our book. 

This region according to the census of 1870, had a population of 
2,723,172 souls, and to this number a vast multitude has been added 
during the eight years which have passed since the record was made. 
Since that time the Black Hills country has been opened to civilization, 
the Northern Pacific has stretched its iron arm to Bismarck in Dakota, 
the Yellowstone country has been entered, and the generous soil of 
Wisconsin's, Minnesota's and Iowa's prairies has been developed through 
natural increase and immigration. So at this day the figures given in 
the census of 1870 might be safely doubled, and then in all probability 
lie within the truth as to the present actual population. In 1850 the 
estimated value of the real and personal property in the region (two 
states) was $65,771,233 ; in 1860 it had increased to $573,304,346 (three 
states), and in 1870, it had rolled up to the grand sum of $1,669,645,- 
943. What it must aggregate now we do not pretend to calculate, but 
the reader will conclude for himself that if expressed in figures it would 
appear startling in its proportions. 

The acreage, improved, in 1870, in Wisconsin, Iowa, Minnesota, Da- 
kota and Montana, was 17,745,231, while of unimproved there were 
16,437,624 acres, of which 7,322,337 was woodland. The cash value of 
farms was $793,738,405, of farming implements and machinery, $41,- 
758,116, and the value of farm, orchard, and market garden products, 
with improvements, for the year was $230,564,917. 

As the short period which has elapsed since the above statistics 
were collected, is really a considerable period in the development of a 
region that had hitherto made such rapid strides, and which has since 
increased the rapidity of its growth from year to year, in almost geo- 
metrical progression, we have selected the information given in the 
latest census, as proper to the preface of this book, forming as it will 
a standard of comparison which will prove of value to the reader, as 
we proceed to specialize the history, development, and present condi- 
tions of the various localities comprised in the Golden North-West. 

While fully intending to give this work a thoroughly practical value, 
it does not detract from that object, to attempt the portrayal of the 
grand and beautiful manifestations of Nature which are to be found in 
every part of this wonder-land. We say attempt, because the pencil of 
the greatest artist is weak, when the divine themes of the Creator's 
handiwork are sought to be transferred to the pages of an unpreten- 
tious volume. 

Taking it all in all, wdiatever of legend, of statistics, history and 
description, the publishers have been able to obtain concerning the 
great, the Golden North-West, they lay before the public confident that 
their labor will not be unappreciated. 



INTRODUCTORY. 



It will not be necessary to refer more than generally, and briefly, to the 
facts surrounding the earliest introduction of this (Golden North- West to 
the acquaintance of the white man. There is a certain amount of infor- 
mation on this score which is property common to every school child, and 
the salient points in the careers of LaSalle, Marquette and Joliet, are as 
well preserved in the popular mind as is the connection between Chistopher 
Columbus and " the beautiful shore of San Salvador." This book is in- 
tended rather to chronicle matters of interest not to be found in the pages 
of any work hitherto published, than to plough again over the fields of 
stock information which may indeed be said to have become exhausted by 
many and able investigators. The author of the Golden North-West trusts 
to make his labors valuable, as supplementary to the knowledge already 
possessed concerning his subject, and will therefore take the liberty of 
passing lightly over such general matters of history, and so forth, as are 
easily to be acquired by reference to the standard histories of the various 
states. In cases where such works are not extant, it will be the object of 
this book to supply the want as far as practicable within the somewhat 
limited scope of the work. 

A good portion of the territory forming our present north-western states 
began its existence as a part of the modern world nominally under the 
dominion of that great world-conquering nation, Spain, When De Soto 
planted the standard of his sovereign upon the shores of the Mississippi in 
1541, then seen by Caucasian eye for the first time, he took possession in 
the name of Spain of all lands watered by the great river and its tributa- 
ries. As this action was entirely in accord with prevailing doctrines con- 
cerning the right of " discovery," perhaps the heaviest real estate transac- 



Introductory. 

tion ever attempted in the West was thus nominally consummated. In an 
old Spanish map of North America, the section now occupied by the states 
of Illinois and Wisconsin may still be seen figuring as a part of the Span- 
ish possessions. 

While their most Catholic majesties held the barren title to this rich 
region, they do not appear to have ever attempted its exploration, much 
less settlement ; both of which enterprises were left to the French, who, 
having gained a considerable foothold in Canada, began to push out trading 
and missionary expeditions to the surrounding country, and who, following 
the lakes, reached these latitudes some years after the middle of the cen- 
tury succeeding that of De Soto's exploits. On the 6th of July, 1667, La- 
Salle, who had obtained a patent for the exploration of the Ohio river, 
which was then believed to empty into the Gulf of California, in company 
with a l)ody of seminarists of the order of St. Sulpice, from Montreal, bent 
upon the conversion of the western tribes, embarked upon the St. Lawrence 
and sailed up the river to Lake Ontario. The expedition landed on the 
banks of the Genesee, where a Jesuit had already established a mission of 
his order, and sought intelligence as to the object of their search, and 
guidance. An apparent unfriendliness, perhaps encouraged by the Jesuit, 
prevented any progress from this point, and the party, later, visited the 
Iroquois colony at the mouth of the Niagara river. 

At this place it was learned that two Frenchmen had arrived at a neigh- 
boring village. On meeting these, one of whom was Louis Joliet, after- 
wards famous as a western explorer, the missionaries obtained a map of 
portions of the upper lake region, which he had visited in the interest of 
the Canadian authorities to explore the copper district of Lake Superior. 
They were also informed that the north-western Indians were in need of 
spiritual food, and concluded to journey in that direction; while La Salle 
took another route and reached the Ohio across country. The missiona- 
ries, on arriving among the Indians of whom Joliet had advised them, 
found the French Pere Marquette and his companion Dablon already on 
the ground. In the following year, La Salle, having explored the Ohio as 
far as the falls, where Louisville now stands, embarked on Lake Erie, and 
passed around through the Straits of Mackinaw into Lake Michigan: 
Eeaching the head of navigation, this voyager crossed the country to the 
Illinois river, which he followed to its confluence with the Mississippi, de- 
scending the latter, it is said, to the 36th deg. of latitude. 

During the year 1673, the upper Mississippi was first reached by Eu- 
ropeans, Joliet and Marquette achieving the discovery by an expedition 
through the country from Green Bay. On this trip the site of St. Louis 
was first visited. Returning to Canada in broken health, Pere Marquette 
remained until the following year, when he again set out on a missionary 
enterprise. Passing around the lakes, his party ascended the Chicago 
river, and here the health of the noble Christian priest was discovered to 
be in such a condition that his approaching dissolution became apparent. 



Introductory, 

Eeviving somewhat, lie was able to make the partage between the Chicago 
and Des Plaines, and followed the latter to the Illinois, down which the 
company proceeded to the location of the present town of Utica, and here 
■was witnessed the first " revival of religion " of that great series in the 
history of the West which culminated in the Moody and Sankey excite- 
ment so recently. Desirous of establishing a mission before his death, 
Pere Marquette labored with burning zeal to convert the aborigines, and 
on the shores of the river at the place named he gathered together some 
500 chiefs, and thousands of warriors, women and children, to whom he 
unfolded the sublime truths of Christianity and the touching story of the 
cross and man's redemption. This pioneer of western revivalists died a 
few days afterward, on the 19th of March, 1675, in the wilderness while 
endeavoring to reach Mackinaw. 

Lingering regretfully over the annals of this early day, we are forced 
by the inexorable limits of our space to pass the succeedmg developments 
of the North- West with scarcely more than mention. The ambitious under- 
takings of Count Frontenac, the new Canadian governor, aided by the 
enterprise of La Salle, now ennobled by the French government, the bat- 
ter's companions, Tonti, La Motte, Fathers Hennepin, Labourde and 
Membre — all these we must slight. Nor have we room to follow closely 
the record of the development of the trade in furs, now beginning to assume 
importance, increased about this time greatly by the enterprise of La Salle. 
The intrigues for the monopoly of that trade, too, on the part of English 
and French interests ; although all of great moment, are without the do- 
main of this volume's particular mission, and are already exhaustively 
treated in other books. Bowing to the strong necessity for condensation, 
the author leaves the infant Empire of the Golden North- West at the 
point where the principal factors in the problem of its future development 
may first be recognized as existing. 

On the 22d of January, 1679, the keel of the first lake vessel was laid 
by Henri Tonti, La Salle's lieutenant, at the mouth of Cayuga creek, on 
Lake Erie. In August following. La Salle having returned from France, 
the white-winged sails of " The Griffin " were spread to the breezes, and 
the commerce of the great lakes had its initiation. In the labors of the 
missionaries we have seen the establishment of religion in the factories at 
Mackinaw and other points of trade, and in the launch of " The Griffin " 
of commerce. It will be our pleasure to note the results achieved by the 
operation of these forces in later days, and in the various localities of the 
region whereof we are writing. With these brief remarks upon the dawn 
of civilization in the Golden North-West, we introduce the most attractive 
corner of God's footstool to the kind attention of the reader. 



CHAPTER I. 

SKETCH OF WISCONSIN — MILWAUKEE — WAUKESHA — JANESVILLE — MONEOE- 
SCHLESINGERVILLE — WAUPUN — RIPON — OSHKOSH — FOND DU LAC — 
GREEN LAKE— MENASHA — SHEBOYGAN — MANITOWOC, 



RECENTLY as the fertile, wealthy and populace section now known as 
■ the state of Wisconsin, was rescued from the control of its savage nomadic 
inhabitants, and new as it appears in the light of our European civilisa- 
tion, there are yet evidences that it has been the seat of an elder civilisa- 
tion so remote as to make the earliest human aimals within our ken seem 
but the record of yesterday. In common with other portions of our coun- 
try, there are evidences in this state that, long before the time of the Amer- 
ican Indian, a teeming population lived and thrived within its boundaries. 
One proof in support of this theory, showing as well the great distance in 
time from our days at which these people existed, is to be found in the 
mounds — miscalled until within a few years " Indian mounds " — which sin- 
gular structures may be seen in many parts of the state. The outlines of 
birds, men and reptiles are yet to be distinguished, often very perfectly, in 
the conformation of these works. 

In the south-western part of Wisconsin, near the Blue Mounds, a mound 
elevated about six feet above the level of the surrounding prairie, represents 
the extended figure of a man. It is 120 feet in length, the body 30 feet in 
width, with a well formed head, and the general contour true enough to 
nature to astonish us at the skill of its constructors. Turtles, lizards, ele- 
phants, and other creatures are represented in these earthworks in different 
localities ; but perhaps the most interesting one of all yet discovered is 
located near Cassville. This is in the form of a mastodon, and, moreover, 
was found to contain the bones of that long extinct animal. The obvious 
inference from this startling connection of human art with the fauna of a 
period generally believed to have been pre- Adamite, is that the Mound 
Builders of Wisconsin were contemporaneous with the mastodon and other 
creatures of the geological period in which that gigantic animal liourished. 
In thus putting in a claim to respectable antiquity for the magnificent 
Badger State, we have touched upon a subject of great interest to arcluBol- 
ogists, to whose careful attention we commend the entire region considered 
in this book, replete as it is with the evidences of human life and labor 
hundreds of ages agone. 

As to its geological characteristics, Wisconsin does not present any well 
defined differences from the conditions of its neighbors. Limestone under- 



The Golden Northwest. 9 

lies the southern portion of the state, while primitive rocks, such as granite, 
slate and sandstone, prevail in the northern part. Chancellor Lathrop 
gives the elevations of different points in the southern section of Wiscon- 
sin, as follows: At Blue Mounds, 1,170; head waters of the Rock river, 
316 ; egress of the same river from the state, 1,280 ; and the portage be- 
tween the Fox and Wisconsin rivers, at 223 above the level of Lake 
Michigan. 

The mineral resources of Wisconsin constitute one of its great sources 
of wealth. Three-fourths of the great lead region extending from Illinois 
and Iowa, lies in its south-western part, and covers an area of about 2,000 
square miles. La Pointe, Chippew^a, St. Croix and Iowa counties are rich 
in copper. Excellent iron ores abound in Dodge county and on the Black 
river and other branches of the Mississippi, and the valuable ores of the 
Lake Superior region extend into the state from Michigan in great quantity. 
Magnetic iron, iron pyrites and geophite ore are among the other metallic 
products of the region, which is also prolific in fine marbles, gypsum, salt- 
petre, etc. 

Of the beautiful lakes, almost numberless, which have earned for the 
state the reputation of being the most attractive lacustrine region on the 
continent, we shall have occasion to write in detail, regarding at least the 
more notable ones. Without stopping to notice particularly the great in- 
land seas that wash the shores of Wisconsin, a short distance south-east 
from the centre of the state is situated Lake Winnebago, a fine body of 
water, 28 miles in length and 10 miles wide. It communicates with Lake 
Michigan through the Fox or Neenah river and Green Bay. In common 
with all the lakes of the locality, Winnebago has the clear water, pic- 
turesque shores and islets, and lies under the bright blue skies and in the 
diamond sunlight found nowhere in such perfection as in the Golden North- 
West. 

" The rivers which traverse the interior, for the most part, flow generally 
in a south-west direction, discharging their waters into the Mississippi. 
The latter river bounds Wisconsin on the south-west for more than two 
hundred miles. Commencing on this line at the south, we have, in their 
order, the Wisconsin, Bad Axe, Black, and Chippewa rivers. Of these the 
largest is the Wisconsin, which fiows nearly directly south for over 200 
miles, and then west about a hundred miles, into the Mississippi. It is 
navigable for steamboats for nearly 200 miles. The Chippewa is about 
200, and the Black about 150 miles long. The Fox river, or Neenah, is 
the outlet of Winnebago Lake, and connects it with Green Bay. The Wolf 
river, from the north, is the main supply to this lake. The Menomonee 
emptying into Green Bay, and the Montreal into Lake Superior, are very 
serviceable streams for manufacturing purposes. These rivers form part 
of the north-east boundary of Wisconsin."^ Navigation is difficult on 
most of these rivers. Steamboats ascend on the Wisconsin to wdiere it 
1 Hist, of Wisconsin. 



10 The Golden Northwest. 

approaches a tributary of Lake Winnebago, at which point are rapids. 
Around these a canal, soon to be opened, will afi'ord unbroken navigation 
from the sea to the Mississippi. " The Rock river is sometimes, at high 
water, ascended by boats to within the limits of Wisconsin. The Bad Axe, 
Black, Chippewa and St. Croix are important channels for floating timber 
to market from the pine regions in the north-w^est of the state. The rivers 
flowing into Lake Superior are small ; and though unfavorable for com- 
merce, their rapid courses make them favorable for mill-sites."^ 

Reference has been made, in the preface to this book, to the rapid growth 
of our north-western states and territories, and in no part of the region 
has the march of civilisation resulted in greater triumphs to the energy 
and industry of our race than in the state of Wisconsin. It is to be re- 
gretted that we must go back to the beginning of the present decade for 
figures with which to illustrate the wealth and prosperity of this busy, 
pushing people ; but there are not any reliable statistics to go by, that we 
are aware of, of later date than those contained in the report of the U. S. 
census for 1870. Could the whole truth of Wisconsin's material growth up 
to the present time be laid before us, it is not to be doubted that our pride 
in the development of the North-West would be largely and excusably in- 
creased. In 1870 the state had a population of 1,054,(370, of which 1,051,- 
351 were wdiite, 2,113 of African extraction, and 1,206 Indians. The latter 
figure illustrates the extent to which, eight years ago, the red man had 
been squeezed out of the domain he held, practically undisputed, within 
the present century. At the present time the number of Indians is known 
to be considerably less than that given above. Of the total population 
given, 690,171 were native born; a flattering commentary upon the patri- 
otic efforts of the young commonwealth. 

In 1870 the total acreage of improved land amounted to 5,899,313. 
There was wood land 3,437,442 acres, and other unimproved land to the 
extent of 2,378,536 acres. The total cash value of farms was placed at 
$300,414,064, and of farming implements and machinery $14,239,364. 
The value of all farm productions for the year, including enhanced value 
and additions to stock, aggregated $78,027,032. Orchards produced $819,- 
268, market gardens $226,665, and forests $1,327,618. The value of ani- 
mals slaughtered and sold for slaughter was $11,914,643, and the total 
valuation of all live stock $45,310,882. There were within the state 252,- 
019 horses, 308,377 milch cows, 53,615 working oxen, 1,069,282 sheep, 512,- 
788 swine, besides many other kinds of domestic animals in great number. 
During the census year, Wisconsin produced 24,375.475 bushels of spring 
and 1,230,909 of winter wheat ; 15,033,998 bushels of Indian corn; 960,- 
813 pounds of tobacco, 4,090,670 of wool, 1,591,798 of cheese, and 4,630,- 
155 of hops. Milk was sold to the amount of 2,059,105 gallons, and many 
other and important agricultural products might be mentioned. The man- 
ufacturing industries of the state produced results, for the year 1870, valued 
1 Hist, of Wisconsin. 



The Golden Northwest. 11 

at $77, '214, 826. There were 7,013 establishments of all khids. employmg 
48,910 hands, to whom was paid in wages the sum of .|18,575,(i42, and the 
value of raw material used was placed at $45,851,2(36. 

We have spoken of the early settlement of the North-West commencing 
from the north-eastern part of Wisconsin, in our Introduction. From the 
first attempts at white civilisation, the history of the region was merely the 
history of the posts of Green Bay and Prairie du Chien, until after the 
surrender of the former, with the control of the state, to the United States 
hy the British in 1796. That portion of the history of Wisconsin properly 
coming within the scope of this work, will he found in the papers following 
upon the salient points of interest in the state. 

THE METROPOLIS OF WISCONSIN. 

The site of the present important commercial and manufacturing city 
of Milwaukee was prol)ably first visited by the white man in the person of 
Pere Marquette, who is believed to have stopped there en route from Green 
Bay to Chicago, in October, 1674. Two years later another missionary, 
Pere Claude Albouez, visited the place. With the exception of a short 
stay made in the locality by Jean Buisson de St. Comes, who was storm 
bound there in 1699, nobody seems to have touched at Milwaukee, for any- 
thing we know to the contrary, until 1762, when Lieutenant Gorrell, of the 
British American service, stopped there for a short time. In 1775 Alexan- 
der Laframbois came from Mackinaw and established himself as a trader, 
remaining six years, at the end of which time he returned and was succeeded 
by his brother. Not long after the latter was killed by the Winnebagoes, 
on the Piock river. In 1795 Jacques Vieux and Jean Baptiste Mirandeau 
moved in from Green Bay, reviving the trading business left vacant by the 
death of Laframbois. At about the beginning of the present century, 
probably from 1805-1806 to 1810-1812, Jean Baptiste Beaubien, an agent 
for Mr. John Kinzie, of Chicago, had a trading post at the foot of 
Chestnut street. The permanent white settlement of Milwaukee began in 
1818, in which year Solomon Juneau located and engaged in trade with 
the Indians. Nothing further was done worthy of mention in the way of 
development until 1883, when a number of Chicago settlers came, antici- 
pating the withdrawal of the al)origines, which according to the Treaty of 
Chicago was to take place in 1836. 

Should the reader look upon the building recently erected by the Hon. 
Alexander Mitchell, president of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul B. 
R., at the south-east corner of East Water and Michigan streets, and try 
to carry his mind back a matter of fifty odd years, to the time when Juneau 
built his modest frame house on the same lot, he might be able to conceive 
something of the wonderful progress made by the town during the years 
that elapsed between the l)uilding of these two representative structures. 
What would the pioneer of Milwaukee have thought if he could have seen 
with the eye of prophecy that noble pile, the most magnificent and costly 



12 The Golden Northwest, 

business edifice in America, rearing its massive front in the midst of a great 
commercial city, where at the time were but a few humble log huts and 
frame shanties ? 

The first town election was held in the year 1835, 39 votes being cast, 
and the following officers elected : Supervisor, Geo. H. Walker ; Town 
Clerk, Horace Chase ; Assessors, James Sanderson, Albert Fowler and 
Enoch Chase ; Commissioners of Roads, Benoni W. Finch and Solomon 
Junean ; Constable, Sciota Evans ; School Inspectors, Enoch Chase and 
Wm. Clark; Path Masters, Enoch Darling, Baizillar Douglass and U. B. 
Smith; Fence Viewers, Paul Burdick, U. B. Smith and G. H. Walker; 
Pound Master, Enoch Chase. So small was the population at this time 
that, as will be seen from the "slate," there were more than enough offices 
to go around. It is satisfactory to know that this excess in the supply of 
positions of honor, trust, and emolument, was not experienced by the good 
citizens of Milwaukee for any alarming length of time, nor has it ever re- 
turned to annoy them. At the present date it may be said, in fact, that 
offices in that princely young city are sought for by patriotic inhabitants 
to an extent which precludes the necessity of giving three or four to a 
single man, as was necessarily done in the initial campaign of '35. 

The first sale of lots occurred in November, 1835, and by the beginning 
of 1836 the new village had entered upon a season of speculation and rapid 
growth known only in the history of our frontier towns. Of this prosper- 
ous era, Mr. J. S. Buck writes in his excellent Pioneer History of Milwau- 
kee : " Stocks of goods would be sold out in many instances before they 
were fairly opened, and at an enormous proi^t. Every one was sure his 
fortune was made, and a stiffer necked people, as far as prospective wealth 
was concerned, could not be found in America. Nothing like it was ever 
seen before ; no western city ever had such a birth. People were dazed at 
the rapidity of its growth ; all felt good, * * * Some sixty buildings 
were erected, many of them of goodly dimensions. Streets were graded ; 
fences established ; officers of the law appointed ; medical and agricultural 
societies formed ; a court house and jail erected; and all in five short 
months," 

The year 1836 was notable as witnessing the erection of a territorial 
government in Wisconsin, and the following officers were appointed to ad- 
minister it : Governor, Henry Dodge; Secretary, J, S. Horner; Chief 
Justice, Charles Dunn ; Associate Justices, Wm. C. Frazier and David 
Irwin ; Attorney General, W. W. Chapman ; Marshal, Franklin Gehon. 
The first sheriff of Milwaukee county, Henry M. Hubbard, was commis- 
sioned by Governor Dodge, August 2, 1836. At this time the population of 
the county amounted, according to a territorial census, to 2,893. 

Considering the enterprising character of the early settlers of Milwau- 
kee, it is not surprising that even at this period, co-incident with the in- 
fancy of railroad projects in America, they should have set their hearts 
upon the possession of an iron highway to connect the great lakes with the 



The Golden Nokthwest. 



13 



Mississippi. Byron Kilbourn, who will be remembered to the end of our 
national life as the father of Wisconsin's splendid railroad system, visited 
Milwaukee on a surveying tour in 1834, and settled there in the following- 
year. In connection with his career as a railroad operator, we find him 
first mentioned as secretary of a meeting held in Milwaukee, September 
22, 1836, for the purpose of petitioning the territorial legislature to charter 
a company for the construction of a railway from Milwaukee to the Mis- 
sissippi, by way of Mineral Point. The project conceived at this meeting 
was not carried out until 1849, when the Milwaukee and Mississippi 
railroad was started, but from the time the idea was first broached Byron 
Kilbourn and a few associates never lost sight of the advantages to the 
section to l)e reaped by means of railroads, and his and their efforts were 
thenceforth unceasing until the present system, which is a proud monu- 
ment to the enterprise, industry, perseverence, statesmanship and patience 
of its promoters, was completed in the construction of the Chicago, Mil- 
waukee and St. Paul railroad, the most important line in the state, and 
one of the greatest and most prosperous in the world. This corporation 
controls 1,453 miles of railroad, and gridirons the commonwealth, extend- 
ing as well to the neighboring states of Illinois and Minnesota. 

To the tourist the early history of a place like Milwaukee must be of 
interest, and to the settler it is also valuable, as illustrating the results 
produced by hard work and enterprise, seen to-day. We have for these 
reasons rather leaned toward the pioneer epoch in the city's history, since 
from the chrysalis of that early day burst forth the powerful state of the 
present. Before leaving Milwaukee we will note a point or two in connec- 
tion w^ith its geographical position, population, facilities, and so forth. 
Milwaukee lies on the western shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of 
the Milwaukee river. From a northerly direction the river flows toward 
the city nearly parallel with the shore of the lake. The Menomonee river 
flowing from the west forms a confluence with it about half a mile from 
the outlet. Navigation 
for large vessels extends 
for a distance of about 
two miles up these rivers. 
The population of the 
city has been recently 
estimated by competent 
authorityat 125,000 souls. 
The commercial and 
manufacturing section of 
Milwaukee occupies both 
sides of the river foi 
two miles. Here are the 
stately warehouses into 
whose great depths are 




THE NEWHALL HOUSE. 



14 



The Golden Northwest. 



poured the agricultural wealth of the Grolden North-West. As to sanitary 
advantages, Milwaukee enjoys a reputation unexcelled by any of the Amer- 
ican metropoli. Its drainage is perfect, climate equable although moderately 
cold in winter, and in every respect it justities the appropriate title lie- 
stowed upon it by the savage poets of the race that left its neighborhood 
so sadly and reluctantly but a few years ago — "The Place of the Beautiful." 
To the traveler who may desire to visit Milwaukee comfortably, we suggest 
in conclusion that the Newhall House, the principal hotel in the city, 
presents every attraction in the way of central location, comfort, luxury, and 
moderate charges, and should be patronised in preference to any other. 

A GREAT NORTHWESTERN SPA. 

The beautiful town of Waukesha, Wis., which has of late years become 
so celebrated for the curative powers of the waters of its numerous min- 
eral springs, is the county seat of Waukesha county, Wisconsin ; charm- 
ingly situated on the Fox river. It is distant from Chicago 105 miles, and 
from Milwaukee 20 miles, and is reached by the Chicago, Milwaukee and 
St. Paul R. R., the Prairie du Cliien branch of which road runs through 
the town. Since the accidental discovery, in 1868, of the medicinal quali- 
ties of its springs, Waukesha has grown rapidly in wealth, population, and 
popularity as a summer resort. Crowds of invalids and pleasure seekers 

visit the locality every summer, 
and a more fashionable watering 
place than Waukesha has grown 
to be would be difficult to find 
anywhere in the country. The 
hotel accommodations of Wauke- 
sha are excellent. The Mansion 
House, conveniently and centrally 
located as to the springs, depot, 
(liives, and so forth, is the leading 
hotel, and was built about six 
^ears ago, with especial reference 
to the new wants of the place. 
It is surrounded by a grove of tine shade trees, and possesses extensive 
pleasure grounds, laid out in correct taste. In addition to the Mansion 
House, there are several respectable and comfortable hotels which prosper 
upon the overflow of the former. 

Nature never endowed a place with more numerous or appreciable ad- 
vantages as a sanitarium than she has the locality of Waukesha. The 
climate of the section, southern Wisconsin, is, to begin with, salubrious in 
the extreme, the natural situation of the site is remarkal)ly picturesque 
and inviting, and to crown all, the advantages offered by the waters ; all 
these together combine to render the place certain of becoming one of the 
leading " Spas "' of the world. 




THL MANSION HOUSt 



The Golden Northwest. 15 

The resident population of Waukesha is about 4,000, this number be- 
ing of course largely increased during the season. It has considerable 
commercial and agricultural importance of a local character, but its prin- 
cipal source of prosperity lies in its marvelous springs. Of these there are 
several more or less favored by people who have found relief from the com- 
plaints for which they may almost be said to be severally specifics. The 
Bethesda spring, the earliest discovered, formerly enjoyed the greatest 
popularity, but others have since been found to dispute the honors with it, 
and since the Glenn spring was formed by opening a new outlet to the 
Bethesda stream, the qualities of the Bethesda are said to have deteriorated 
and the flow greatly diminished. At present the Glenn is the favorite with 
visitors to the springs, and its healing waters are shipped in barrels, in im- 
mense quantities, all over the civilised world. The Glenn mineral spring 
water is efficacious in the following diseases : Diabetes, Bright's disease, 
dyspepsia, torpid liver, albuminuria, dropsy, indigestion, inflammation of 
the bladder and kidneys, calculus or stone in the bladder, female weak- 
ness, gout, rheumatism, paralysis, and many other diseases. 

JANESVILLE AND MONEOE, WIS. 

Leaving the immediate neighborhood of the state metropolis, it is im- 
possible to travel in any direction without finding points of more than 
ordinary interest, whether viewed wath the eye of the merchant, manufac- 
turer, settler, or tourist. One of the many thriving and attractively located 
cities for which Wisconsin is noted, is Janesville, situated on both sides of 
the Rock river, and occupying portions of the townships of Harmony, Piock, 
Janesville, and LaPrairie. The white settlement of Janesville began in 
1833, in which year a family named Holmes built the first house — a log 
cabin — on the west side of the river, opposite the Big Rock, then a promi- 
nent feature in the scenery of the valley, and which gave to the crossing 
at that point the name of Big Rock Ford. Holmes, during the same year, 
laid out a town which he called Rockport, covering the ground now consti- 
tuting the fourth ward of the present city. A number of pioneers settled 
on the east side of the river in 1836, among them Henry Janes, who erected 
a tavern, where a large business block now stands. The city is called 
Janesville after this early resident. In 1837 it was made the county seat 
of Rock county, and the present court house, built upon the bluff over- 
looking the city, is regarded as one of the finest public buildings in the 
state. It was erected at a cost of |11'2,000. The population of Janesville 
is about 9,000, and its industries, principally milling and manufacturing, 
give ample employment to both the capital and labor of the city. The 
river furnishes one of the finest water powers in the West, and its shores 
are lined with establishments for the manufacture of various products. 
The flour made at this place has achieved an enviable reputation in the 
markets of the world, and success has also attended the enterprise of its 
citisens in the manufacture of woolen and cotton goods and agricultural 



16 The Golden Northwest. 

implements. The country suiTounding Janesville is well adapted to the 
growth of the leading cereals, especially wheat. As the Eock river is not 
navigable to any considerable extent, the commerce of the town is carried 
on by means of its railroad communications, which are ample. The Janes- 
ville and Monroe branch of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul road is 
the principal outlet for trade, and a branch of the C. & N. W. road crosses 
the former at this point, opening connection for the city with every impor- 
tant point in the land, and bringing it directly to the doors of its principal 
markets, Chicago and Milwaukee, from the latter of which it is only 71 
miles distant. A pleasant place to visit or for permanent residence at all 
times, in the summer and autumn Janesville is as attractive a town as 
nature and art, backed by large material prosperity, could well make it. 
The climate is equable, and but very little sickness is known in the vicinity. 
Another very prosperous, finely located and attractive locality, on the 
same branch of the C. M. & S. P. with Janesville (and its present terminus), 
is the town of Monroe, with a population of about 4,000. It is distant 
from Milwaukee 105 miles. It is probable that the railroad will be extended 
before long to the Mississippi, where it will strike the river at Dunleith, 111., 
opposite Dubuque, la. Monroe is situated in an agricultural district noted 
for its richness, and is rapidly gaining as a centre for the large trade of the 
surrounding region. 

SCHLESINGEEVILLE, WIS. 

It is necessary to retrace our steps, and commence again at Milwaukee. 
Journeying northward, the traveler might spend many weeks in visiting 
the numerous places of resort affected variously by the sportsman, angler, 
or sumir.er-day idler. Probably the first point on the line which would ar- 
rest the attention of the tourist, would be the village of Schlesingerville, 
Washington county, 30 miles north of Milwaukee, about 115 miles from 
Chicago, and 330 from St. Paul. It is reached by the Chicago, Milwaukee 
and St. Paul R. R., through its Ripon, Oshkosh and Berlin division. The 
vicinity of Schlesingerville shows traces of having been a favorite resort 
of the Indians in remote days, as indeed it was within the memory of early 
settlers yet living, the reason being found in the excellent shooting and 
fishing of the locality. Cedar Lake, a beautiful sheet of water and one 
of the prettiest in the extended system of lakes of the state, is only three 
miles from the village. It has a local reputation for its bass fishing, and 
of late years has been largely patronised by parties from the South. The 
country about is rolling, fertile, and well timbered, and the sanitary condi- 
tions are all that could be desired. In the village, manufacturing is carried 
on in a limited way. Accommodations for travelers are said to be adequate. 

WAUPUN, WIS. 

Waupun, in Dodge county, notable principally as being the seat of 
the Wisconsin State Prison, is a town of 2,500 inhabitants, on the 
Eock river. It is distant from Chicago 156, from Milwaukee 68, and from 



The Golden Nokthwest. 17 

St. Paul 299 miles. The leading object of interest is the state prison, two 
miles from the station, which is reached by stages running regularly. The 
prison building is a fine structure, and is generally considered to be one of 
the most complete and perfectly appointed penological institutions in the 
United States. A rich grain and stock country surrounds the town. Wau- 
pun was first settled by whites in the year 1856, and has progressed rapidly 
in wealth and industry to the present time. The principal local manufac- 
ture is carried on in the prison, where 350 convicts are employed under 
contract with a leading Chicago boot and shoe house, turning out products 
estimated in value at $1,000,000 annually. There is an establishment of 
some extent in the town for the manufacture of wind-mills. Ample means 
of communication are had with the outside world through the Chicago, 
Milwaukee and St. Paul E. E. system. Green Lake and Lake Emily, 
within easy distance of the place, furnish excellent resorts for pleasure and 
good fishing, and are largely visited from Waupun. 

HOEICON JUNCTION. 

At the southern end of Horicon Lake this station is situated, on the C. 
M. & S. P. E. E., fifty-four miles from Milwaukee. Near the Junction a 
large dam w^as erected many years ago, and the back-water resulting from 
this obstruction flooded the country for miles around. Deprived of their 
old highway to other waters, the fish in Horicon lake increased in number 
until the water was literally alive with them. . The neighboring farmers 
used to back their wagons into the current, when the boxes would at once 
become filled with fish ; a little energy on the part of the drivers enabled 
them to get on land with a load of their finny prey, and the victims were 
at once devoted to the fertilisation of the land. Later, when the dam was 
removed, the subsidence of the water left a vast extent of marsh, which 
very soon became the breeding ground of myriads of wild fowl. The old 
popularity of the place as a fishing ground gave place to equal favor with 
the lovers of field sport. Here the sportsman may find all the varieties of 
the wild duck, besides brant, geese, and swan. Large parties visit this 
locality every season for the hunting and fishing, and every facility is found 
on the spot for the full enjoyment of a visit. Comfortable accommodations 
and good boats are to be obtained without difficulty. 

BEAVEE DAM. 

Beaver dam, a manufacturing town, and popular summer resort, is lo- 
cated on Beaver Dam Eiver, an outlet of Beaver lake. The lake is eight 
miles in length, by a about two wdde, its trend being northwest and south- 
east. The town possesses a valuable water power, which supplies the 
many manufacturing establishments along the river. There are six flour- 
ing mills, a large agricultural implement factory, two extensive woolen 
mills, and several other enterprises of lesser dimensions. The soil of the 
neighboring country is rich and fertile, and a prosperous grain growing and 



18 The Golden Nobthwest. 

dairy section finds a good market at Beaver Dam, whence the crops are 
shipped to Milwaukee or Chicago, the latter point being only 149 miles dis- 
tant. The means of communication with all parts of the country are am- 
ple, as the Chicago, Milwaukee and St, Paul E. E. system touches this 
point, offering a highway in every direction through its numerous radiating 
branches and connections. Beaver lake is well stocked with game fish, the 
pickerel being especially notable for their immense size and superior flavor. 
Last spring the state fish commission planted 140,000 young Mackinaw 
trout in its waters, which in a few years will arrive at sufficient maturity 
to delight the angler and adorn his camp larder. 

EIPON. 

A number of natural beauties, combining with advantages of situa- 
tion and historical associations of no little interest, render the little 
city of Eipon, Wisconsin, a point of more than ordinary attraction, even 
among the many interesting places in this favored state. The city is sit- 
uated in the western part of Fond du Lac county, 83 miles from Milwau- 
kee, at the point where the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul road diverges 
to Oshkosh, the crossing of the Sheboygan and Fond du Lac E, E. On 
the latter line, six miles west of Eipon, is Green Lake station, on the lake 
of the same name, long celebrated among the disciples of Izaak Walton 
for its magnificent fishing, and popular with the sportsmen of the country 
as well for the excellent duck and other shooting its neighborhood affords 
in season. The lake is irregular in form, and is about fifteen miles in 
length, with an average width of three miles. Facilities for reaching this 
inviting spot from Eipon, are ample, by stage or by the trains over the 
Sheboygan, and Fond du Lac road, 

Eipon was incorporated a city in 1838, and has at the present time a 
population of about 4,000, A considerable manufacturing interest has 
sprung up and the local industries are in a thriving condition. There are 
flouring mills, wind mills, saw mills, carriage works, and a large pickle 
factory in successful operation. The Eipon college, the result of local 
enterprise on the part of Captain Mapes and other pioneers of the place, 
is located here, and is a flourishing and popular educational institution. 
The locality of Eipon will ever prove interesting to the student of sociology, 
inasmuch as it was at this spot that one of the most earnest and compre- 
hensive, and for a time successful, efforts in history w^as made to establish 
a social community in accordance with the theories of Fourier and other 
philosophers of that ilk. Harmony Colony was established in 1834 or 1835, 
and prospered so well that within a couple of years it had over three hun- 
dred and fifty members. The families possessed everything in common, 
and their united eft'orts in the field of agriculture soon gave the community 
an accumulation of property regarded in those days as considerable. The 
people were frugal, industrious, temperate, law-abiding and religious, and 
so long as their position remained isolated they got on very well together. 



The Golden Northwest. l[f 

But after a few years other and non-soeialist pioneers began to encroach 
upon the adjacent lands, discords appeared within the circle of the com- 
munity ; a few " advanced "' members endeavored to graft upon the system 
the then novel idea of free love, and, in short, contact with the older forms 
of society without, and with new and demoralising influences within, so 
affected the peace and prosperity of Harmony Colony that it was decided 
to divide the common stock, and this was accomplished peaceably and 
equitably, we believe, in 1837. The experiment at Ripon, like Robert Dale 
Owen's in Indiana, and Brook Farm in New England, was short lived ; it 
could not stand against the immense pressure of personality in American 
life and enterprise. 

WINNECONNE. 

This pleasant town is in Winnebago county, fourteen miles north-w^est 
from Oshkosh, where it is situated on Wolf river, near the mouth of Fox 
river at the outlet of Poygan lake. The northern terminus of the Mil- 
waukee and Winneconne line of the C. M. & S. P. railway touches this 
point. Winneconne has a population of nearly 3,000, and is a thriving' 
town in the midst of a prosperous lumber and agricultural district. The 
place was settled in 1844, and has enjoyed a steady growth. The industrial 
interests of Winneconne are principally in the direction of lumber manu- 
facture, and there are a number of wealthy firms engaged in this line of 
business. The facilities for sport and pleasure possessed by this town are 
unsurpassed. Poygan lake is rapidly becoming one of the greatest favor- 
ites among all the lakes, for hunting and fishing ; it contains an area of 70 
miles, being about twelve miles in length and an average of four and a half 
miles wide. Its shores and bays abound with snipe, plover, wood-cock, 
ducks and prairie chickens, while its waters teem with game fish of many 
descriptions ; among these, bass, sturgeon, pickerel and pike may be men- 
tioned. In addition to its railway connections, this place has water com- 
munication with Oshkosh and New London, via the Wolf river line of 
transports, and to Berlin by way of Fox river steamboats. A fair hotel, 
capable of accomodating a moderate number of guests, is maintained at 
Winneconne. 

OSHKOSH. 

The city of Oshkosh, the county seat of Winnebago county, is a fine 
town of 15,000 inhabitants, situated on both shores of Wolf river, at the 
point where it empties into Lake Winnebago. It is the northern terminus 
of the Oshkosh and Milwaukee linq^ of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. 
Paul R. R., and has water communication by vessel to Wolf river points. 
Lake Winnebago is noted as being the largest lake in the state, as well as 
for the extreme beauty of its surroundings. It has an area of about 212; 
miles. Its greatest length, which is north and south, is about twenty- 
eight miles, and its width from ten to eleven miles. On the eastern shore 
a singular formation skirts the lake for fifteen miles. It consists of a wall 



20 The (jolden Northwest. 

of stone piled about tive feet liigli, and so regularly that it appears to l)e of 
artificial construction ; but it is doubtless due to the action of ice through 
long periods of time. This lake lies within the boundaries of Winnebago, 
Calumet and Fond du Lac counties. It lies at an elevation of 160 feet 
above the level of Lake Michigan, The depth of the water is varying and 
in places quite shallow, but in general it is sufficient for purposes of navi- 
gation. Fox river forms an outlet for the ship canal connecting the Fox 
and Wisconsin rivers. Oshkdsh owes its commercial and industrial im- 
portance to the lumber trade of Northern Wisconsin, for which it was 
formerly the great mart. A number of saw mills and the manufacturing 
establishments employ a considerable amount of capital and a large num- 
ber of hands. Considering the natural advantages possessed by this city. 
it seems evident that it is destined to become an important commercial 
point. Its commerce extends far north to the limits of the state, whence 
the supply of lumber is drawn, and it is favored in having exceptional ad- 
vantages of railroad communication, as well as vessel navigation to the 
great lakes unobstructed. Oshkosh has been twice destroyed by fire, in 
1859 and in 1874, and each time wdthin a year the city was rebuilt in better 
shape than ever. Since the last great conflagration , stringent ordinances 
liave been adopted restricting the erection of frame buildings, and as the 
town is nearly fire proof and has an ample and convenient supply of water, 
it is not likely that disasters of this kind are to be again suffered. The 
shores of the lake, within a few miimtes' walk of the business district, are 
lined with the villas of the wealthier citisens. Vessels of all kinds ply up 
and down, while pleasure yachts, both steam and sail, dance over the 
crystal deep. There is not a place in the world that can lay claim to 
greater adaptability to the needs of a great summer resort, than can the 
city of Oshkosh. 

FOND DU LAC. 

The city of Fond du Lac, 176 miles from Chicago, lies at the southern 
extremity of Lake Winnebago. It has a population of 18,000, and is a 
place of considerable commercial and industrial importance. The princi- 
pal manufactures are agricultural implements, wagons, paper, and luml)er 
products. There is a fine high school building, twenty church edifices, a 
costly and handsome post office, and many other public buildings of archi- 
tectural pretensions. Several good hotels accommodate the traveling pub- 
lic. The city proper is located on the banks of the upper Fox river, and 
about a mile from the lake. A peculiarity of Fond du Lac is the number 
of artesian wells that it contains ; over three hundred of these supply the 
citizens with the purest water imaginable, drawn from depths of sixty, 
to four hundred feet. The advantages of the place as a summer resort are 
many. The climate of the region in summer is nearly perfect. The clear 
atmosphere is impregnated with the balsamic odors of the pine forests 
growing in every direction about it. A mineral spring called the Fountain 



The Golden Northwest. 



•21 



has long been eelel)rated for its medicinal qualities, which are highly tonic. 
In addition to the l)eanties of Winnebago, Elkhart Lake on the east, and 
Green Lake on the west, afford great attractions to the visitor. A fine fleet 
of yachts on Lake Winnebago annually engage in a numl)er of regattas, 
races, and so on, and in fact everything is to be found at Fond du Lac cal- 
culated to make a summer holiday ple^asant and recreative. 

MENASHA. 

Menasha is a picturesque tow^n which is situated at the foot of Lake 
Winnebago, where it finds its outlet through Fox river. The charming- 
little body of water known as Lake Butte des Morts, just south-west, 
washes the confines of the place. Between the beauties and advantages 
of these lakes and the river, the visitor has opportunities of the best sort 
to indulge his taste for fishing, hunting, boating or sailing, to his heart's 
content. The accomodations furnished by the National Hotel are all that 
could be desired. This house has long enjoyed a w^ell deserved reputation for 
the excellence of its cuisine, and for the 
perfect preparations it makes every 
year for the comfort of summer board- 
ers and tourists. Boats of all kinds, 
bait, tackle, and guides, are furnished 
at reasonable rates, and vehicles of all 
kinds are to be found at the stables of 
the hotel, for the convenience of sports- 
men and the many guests who yearly 
enjoy the beautiful drives of the local- 
ity. Menasha is largely patronised by 
visitors from the western and southern 

states. NATIONAL HOTEL, MENASHA. 

NEENAH AND APPLETON. 

Besides the attractions wdiich this retired but busy and prosperous mill 
town of Neenah offers to tourists, it is a spot much visited by people sum- 
mering at Menasha, only a few" miles distant, and at other watering places 
in the vicinity. It is located on the Fox river, and its beautiful surround- 
ings recommend the locality to the lover of nature. No pleasanter place 
could be found for families of moderate means to spend their vacation. 
At the point on the Lower Fox river, where the rapid descent of the waters 
forms the rapids known as the "Grand Chute," stands the city of Apple- 
ton. It occupies a nearly central position between Lake Winnel)ago and 
Green Bay, in a district noted for its fertility and l)eauty of scenery ; in 
fact the Fox river valley, whether regarded practically or esthetically, is a 
most favored region. The country immediately about x\ppleton presents a 
diversified surface, at once agreeable to the eye and favorable to the 
productive needs of the inhabitants. The Tellulah springs, with curative 




•22 The Golden Northwest. 

powers said to be similar to those possessed by the famous springs of Wau- 
kesha, are located at the eastern end of the town. Game and fish abound, 
and every convenience necessary to the enjoyment of life in town or coun- 
try, is obtainable. Appleton is the seat of Lawrence University, an insti- 
tution of learning patronised extensively by the people of the state. Access 
to this lovely retreat is gained by the Milwaukee and Wisconsin Lake Shore 
Hailroad. 

SHEBOYGAN. 

One of the most accessible and at the same time popular and fashiona- 
ble watering places on the great lakes, is the port of Sheboygan, on Lake 
Michigan, at the mouth of the Sheboygan river. For those who enjoy a 
long sea trip, the steamers from Chicago and Milwaukee afford an agreea- 
ble w^ay of reaching the place. By far the greater number of visitors, 
however, prefer the journey by rail, which is more rapid and quite as easy. 
The Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railroad connects at Ripon with the 
Sheboygan and Fond du Lac line, over which roads the bulk of the travel 
to Sheboygan passes. The town itself is a growing and prosperous com- 
munity, having a population of about 7,000, and is largely engaged in the 
fishing business, in which enterprise a number of sailing vessels and steam 
yachts are employed. Between the lake and the river unequalled opportu- 
nities for the pursuit of aquatic sports are enjoyed. The bosom of Michi- 
gan about this locality is seldom so ruffled by storms in the summer as to 
render yachting dangerous, and this pastime is much followed by the peo- 
ple of the place as well as visitors. Boating and fishing are also favorite 
recreations, and the excellent hotels of the town supply the means of com- 
fortable residence wdiile all the above advantages are being indulged in. 
Sheboygan is the county seat of the county of the same name, is the mar- 
ket and entrepot for a considerable section of country adjacent, and alto- 
gether a place of local importance. It has many churches, a court house, 
schools, and other public buildings. The recent discovery of a fine miner- 
al spring, claimed to equal in healing qualities, as it is said to resemble, the 
Congress spring, of Saratoga, has added materially to the other advant- 
ages of the town as a resort. The waters of this spring are free to all. It 
is situated in the middle of the public park. Sheboygan Falls, a pretty 
village, five miles up the river, is a favorite objective point for a drive. 
There are other pleasant drives in the neighborhood, and nothing is want- 
ing to give the port every qualification to rank some day as the New- 
port of Wisconsin. 

MANITOWOC AND TWO RIVERS. 

The former of these towns, on the Milwaukee, Lake Shore and Western 
railroad, is a progressive and prosperous lake port, boasting a population 
of 5,000. It has many important manufactures and a considerable lake and 
inland commerce, all of which interests are being rapidly developed. 
Steamers ply between, Manitowoc, Milwaukee and Chicago, and both l)y 



The Golden Northwest, 



23 



rail and water, numbers of Summer tourists visit the town annually. The 
hotel accommodations are above criticism, and everything else calculated 
to attract visitors in the way of sport, fishing, bathing, scenery, boating 
and yachting are to found for the seeking. 

Two Eivers, another enterprising Wisconsin town, is situated on Lake 
Michigan, a few miles above Manitowoc. It is connected with the latter by 
rail, and in Summer by steamers on the lake. The population numbers 
about 3,000 and is increasing with noticeable celerity, since the many ad- 
vantages of the locality are beginning to be appreciated. To the pleasure 
seeker it offers the same attractions as does its sister town, and there is 
little difference either as to the quality or quantity. 




li-sIUJMl. ^>^ 1) 1) H4ENCH LAKF DELLS NEAR MIL\V AX. Kl- !• 



CHAPTER II. 



PEWAUKEE — MILTON — MADISON — MIDDLETON — PRAIRIE DU CHIEN — LAKESIDE — 
HARTLAND — NASHOTAH — DELAFIELD — GIFFORD — OCONOMOWOC — WATER- 
TOWN — COLUMBUS — PORTAGE — FOX LAKE — KILBOURN CITY AND 
DELLS OF THE WISCONSIN — MAUSTON — TOMAH — 
SPARTA — BANGOR — LA CROSSE. 



'EAR the geographical centre of Waukesha county, and at a pomt dis- 
tant from Chicago about 104 miles, one of the most beautiful and ad- 
mired localities in the Golden North-West may be found. The town of Pe- 
waukee, situated at the eastern extremity of Pewaukee lake, is the point by 
which we may reach a retired, delightful resort, that has become so widely 
known within a few years as to be familiar to almost every angler, sports- 
man and summer tourist in the West. The county in which this town and 
lake are located is noted for the number and beauty of its lakes, of wlrich 
there are forty-one, as well as for their popularity. None, however, among 
them all excel, if indeed any equal, the charming features of Pewaukee, 
enhanced by the material comforts the visitor is enabled to enjoy through 
the ease with which access is possible to every point of interest. The 
country surrounding is a fertile farming district, which is thickly populated 
by an intelligent and wealthy class of agriculturists. It was first settled 
in 1837, but did not make any very great progress until a comparatively 
few years ago, when its advantages as a summer resort began to be appre- 
ciated. Since that time it has steadily advanced in population and pros- 
perity. 



The Golden Northwest. 



25 




While other resorts boast the size and magnilicence of their hotels, Pe- 
waukee is par excellence the paradise of the camping party. During the 

warm months, hun- 
dreds of families and 
parties of sportsmen 
may be encountered 
" gypsyii^g " ill their 
snowy tents about the 
shores of this beauti- 
ful lake. If one longs 
for a taste of out-door 
life, and the freedom 
from conventionality it 
allows, all that is nec- 
essary is to procure a 
tent and camp kit and 
go to Pewaukee. Even 
the boat necessary to 
enj oyment of the splen- 
did fishing may be car- 
ried, like a small valise, 
in the hand. The " Au- 
cAMPiNG OUT ON PEWAUKKpi LAKE. (lubon lolciing cauvas 

boat, manufactured by W. W, Barcus & Co., Chicago, is just the thing for 
this purpose. 

The Oakton springs, near Pewaukee, have for some time enjoyed a rep- 
utation for medicinal properties almost equal to the more celebrated min- 
eral waters found in other parts of the country. At this point a magnifi- 
cent house known as the Oakton Springs Hotel, is open during the season, 
and is patronised extensively by the wealth and fashion of the leading 
American cities. It is luxuriously furnished, and is further noted for the 
superior character of its table. Every facility for boating, bathing and 
fishihg is provided by the proprietors, and the results of liberal manage- 
ment are seen in the large concourse of guests that annually take up their 
residence in the " Oakton Springs." Pewaukee is reached by the Chicago, 
Milwaukee and St. Paul E. E., and the other places of interest in the same 
region are nearly all on the lines of that road, or within easy carriage drive 
of the town. 

MILTON TO MADISON. 

The Junction bearing the somewhat aspiring title of Milton, is probably 
so named from a local belief that hereabouts the poetic John might have 
found the earthly Eden concerning which he was so fond of speculating in 
blank verse. Be this as it may, the country around this station possesses 
attractions in the way of scenery, sport, and so on, calculated to excuse 



^6 The Golden Northwest. 

the enthusiasm of its residents, as well as the many others who have 
visited that neighborhood. Lake Koshkonnong, five miles distant, teems 
with fish, pre-historic works of the mound builders abound, and the drives 
for many miles about are unsurpassed in the state, Milton Junction is the 
eastern terminus and junction of the Janes ville and Monroe branch of the 
Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul E. R., sixty-two miles from Milwaukee. 
It offers good hotel accommodations, is somewhat noted in the surrounding 
regions as the seat of Milton College, and presents to the traveler the 
means of conveniently visiting several interesting points not far off. A 
very rich and fertile farming region, this part of Rock county is chiefly ob- 
servable from the fact that the principal crop cultivated is tobacco. 

Whitewater, to the east, and Edgerton and Stoughton, to the west of 
Milton Junction, are all growing places, well worthy of a call from the 
tourist. 

MADISON. 

The capital of the state of Wisconsin is not only an important political 
centre, but as well one of the most beautiful and picturesque places in the 
country. As a watering place alone it possesses attractions and advantages 
that give it a pre-eminently forward place in the favor of seekers after 
summer rest and fashionable recreation, with all the delights of purely 
sylvan life thrown in, as often as one wishes to enjoy them. Madison, in 
addition to its other honors, is the county seat of Dane county, and occu- 
pies an isthmus about three-fourths of a mile wide between Lakes Mendo- 
ta and Monona, in the centre of a broad valley surrounded by hights from 
which it can be seen at a distance of several miles. The distance from 
Chicago to Madison is only 138 miles, and from Milwaukee 95 miles. It is 
reached by the Milwaukee and Prairie du Cliien line of the Chicago, Mil- 
waukee and St. Paul R. R., and it is connected with northern and north- 
western points by branch lines which strike the Chicago and St. Paul line 
of the same road at Watertown, thirty-six miles east, and at Portage City, 
thirty-nine miles to the north. 

The resident population of Madison is placed at 15,000, but during the 
summer this number is largely increased by fasliional)le immigration from 
all parts of the United States, the South, however, being best represented. 
It is very rarely the case that a watering place is able to combine the at- 
tractions of unspeakably beautiful scenery, excellent hunting and fishing, 
surroundings of the greatest interest to the botanist and archieologist, with 
all the refinements and facilities of metropolitan life. Madison, through 
her state institutions, university, lil)rary, and so forth, otters all those op- 
portunities for study so dear to the professional or scientific man, and the 
further and important desideratum of a wealthy and cultivated resident 
society is not to be overlooked. Lying right around the city are four most 
charming lakes. On the north-west, Lake Mendota, the largest of these, 
is about six miles in length bv four wide. It is edged with shores of clear 



The Golden Northwest. '27 

shining gravel, and is deep enough (average 60 feet) for navigation by 
steamboats. The second in size, Lake Monona, is somewhat smaller, and 
has not so great a depth, but is still able to support a small steamer which 
makes pleasant excursions. 

Among the proaiinent features of the town is the state capitol, a fine 
stone structure built upon a commanding eminence some seventy feet 
above the level of the lake, and surrounded by a handsome public park of 
fourteen acres. College hill, and the University of Wisconsin upon its 
brow, are also noticeable, looming up above their surroundings, about a 
mile w^est of the capitol, and 125 feet above Lake Mendota. Delightful 
drives abound, and everything may be found at hand to tempt the visitor 
to linger on and on until snowfall. Facilities for procuring board 
are adequate, excellent boarding houses abound, and there are in addition 
several passable hotels. A majority of visitors prefer the quiet and privacy 
of semi-private families, hence the hotels have not had sufhcient encour- 
agement, perhaps, to compete with those of other and even less favored 
summer resorts. 

MIDDLETON TO PRAIRIE J)V CHIEN. 

Situated in the same county with the state capital, and distant from it 
but a few miles, the little village of Middleton has claims upon the atten- 
tion of the traveler, which are recognised by all who visit Madison, as well 
as by many who even prefer its simplicity and economy to the more aris- 
tocratic life of the city. With the latter this charming hamlet is connected 
by both steam and rail, as it is a station on the C. M. & S. P. R. R., and 
only a mile and a half from Lake Mendota. Added to the natural ad- 
vantages it enjoys in common with its distinguished neighbor, there are 
several considerations that give it a character peculiar to itself. About 
four miles from the station there is a large cavern known as Richardson's 
Cave, easily accessible by carriage, which has excited the wonder and ad- 
miration of thousands. The cave is of natural formation, but according 
to tradition has furnished a safe retreat for outlaws, who were not uncom- 
mon in the pioneer days of Wisconsin, and who found at this spot a con- 
venient depot for plunder and place of rendezvous near the settlements, 
while their operations extended southward into Illinois and westward far 
into Iowa. On the very site of the peaceful village of to-day, once stood 
the camp of Blackhawk's dusky army, and where now the church bell calls 
the people to thoughts of love and mercy, the scalp dance of the savage 
braves w^as celebrated, not so long ago but that people yet live who fled as 
the invading Indians' horrid yell broke the stillness of the lovely valley. 
The adjacent country is devoted to farming and stock raising, and pros- 
perity has long shone upon the locality. All that is left to remind the older 
settlers of the struggles of early days, is an occasional tomahawk blade or 
arrow-head picked up now and then, as the good wife trowels her garden 
beds, or the farmer turns a furrow in the wheat field. 



28 The Golden Northwest. 

Between Middleton and Prairie du Cliien the C. M. & S. P. trains whirl 
the traveler through a section overflowing with life and happiness, and dis- 
playing every indication of material progress and prosperity. Want of 
space prevents us from giving a detailed description of the thriving towns 
scattered over this stretch of country ; the leading ones are Cross Plains, 
Black Earth, Mozomanie, Arena, Helena, Spring Green, Lone Rock, Avoca, 
Muscoda, Blue River, Boscobel, Woodman, Wauzeka, and Bridgeport. One 
of the above is entitled to particular mention, in the interest of all who 
are devotees of trout fishing. Lone Rock station, 225 miles from Chicago 
and 140 from Milwaukee, is noted for the quantity and quality of its 
speckled trout, and for the fine shooting to l)e had in the neighl)orhood. 
Numerous parties from the cities visit Lone Rock in the summer and fall. 
The name of the place is derived from an isolated rock standing in the 
Wisconsin river at this place, which was ased 1)y the Indians as a land 
mark. In visiting the locality, sportsmen should be careful to provide 
themselves with an " Audubon " portable folding canvas boat, as otherwise 
they may experience difficulty in obtaining craft, or even then in making 
convenient portages without this friend at need of the voyageur. 

PRAIRIE DU CHIEN. 

W^e have remarked in another place that the history of the posts of 
Prairie du Chien and Green Bay cover about all that is known of the 
early white settlement of Wisconsin, comprising nearly its entire record up 
to the present century. Pere Marquette is believed to have visited the site 
of Prairie du Chien in June, 1673, at the time when he reached the Missis- 
sippi by passing up the Fox to the Wisconsin river, and thence out upon 
the broad expanse of the Father of Waters. Later, in 1680, Pere Louis 
Hennepin was probably in the locality. The place was occupied by the 
French as a fortified post at a very early day. The exact time is a matter 
of dispute among historians, but there seems to be some evidence that it 
was at as remote a time as 1689. 

According to current opinion, in 1726 a hunter and trapper from Canada 
settled here permanently. His name was Cardinelle, and he came accom- 
panied by his wife. Mme. Cardinelle was undoubtedly the first white 
woman who ever saw the spot where the prosperous city of Prairie du 
Chien now stands. Her memory should be held in reverence by the citi- 
sens of the town, for she honored it in surviving to the good old age of 130 
years, thus bestowing upon the neighborhood the very best eulogium it 
could have for the sanitary excellence of its climate. Numbers of people 
have attempted to equal the old lady's longevity, and with every desire to 
accomplish the feat, but wdthout success ; still, the environment of the 
city remains to this day favorable to health and prolongation of life. 

By the treaty of 1763 the town passed from French into English hands, 
and at this time the former are supposed to have abandoned the settlement, 
for Captain Jonathan Carver, who visited it in 1766, found an Indian town 



The Golden Northwest. 29 

of 801) inhabitants, and referred to it as a mart for the trading enterprises 
of the neighboring tribes. During the struggle for American independence, 
Prairie du Chien was the scene of an aft'air in which a small expedition in 
the British interest descended upon the place and destroyed a quantity of 
furs gathered there by American traders. In 1786 it was surrendered to 
the United States. Major Z. M. Pike, U. S. A., found a village of 370 
souls here in 1805, and the fort had then a small garrison commanded by 
Captain Fisher. During the second war with Great Britain, Prairie du 
Chien was again taken possession of by an English and Indian expedition 
under Col. McKay. The fort capitulated after a gallant defense, and the 
Americans were allowed to embark, not, however, without calling forth the 
most strenuous efforts on the part of the British commander to save them 
from massacre by his savage allies. 

A very interesting paper on the history of Prairie du Chien appeared 
not long ago in the Wisconsin State Journal, the authorship of which we 
are not advised. Among other things some recollections connected with 
Fort Crawford appear, which we think well worthy of reproduction : " In 
1816, old Fort Crawford was erected here by Colonel Hamilton, upon what 
is known as the Island, or where the railway depots now stand ; but owing 
to high waters of '21, '26, '28, it was decided by Col. Zach. Taylor to erect 
a new fort on higher ground. The site chosen was Pike's Hill, a high, pro- 
jecting l)luif, three miles below, on the Iowa side, because of its command- 
ing l)oth the Wisconsin and Mississippi rivers, but after two years suc- 
cessive failure to build a road that could not be affected by the disastrous 
floods that visited the region, it was abandoned, and a position on the main 
land, which is about forty feet higher than the island, was selected, and in 
1832 New Fort Crawford was completed and occupied. Many are the his- 
torical reminiscences given of the early days of Fort Crawford, and many 
are the incidents and adventures related of the men who subsequently be- 
came conspicuous in the annals of our history. Perhaps none figure more 
conspicuously, or so often, as does Jeff. Davis — or, as he was familiarly 
known in those days, " the little nigger " — not because of his exhuberant 
spirits, amounting to dare deviltry, but rather because of his recent noto- 
riety. True, here he first recieved his initiation into the rigor of military 
life on the frontier ; but as he remained here but a short time, being ordered 
to Fort Winnebago as speedily as possible by Col. Taylor, who disliked him 
heartily, we cannot credit that he figured in all the incidents related of him, 
as it would have necessitated a continual season of wakefulness and fast- 
ing, neither of which are leading characteristics of our Jeff. Here it was, 
so it is said, that he surreptitiously wooed and won the fair Noxie Taylor, 
and the consequent ill-will of pater fa mil'ias, Old Zach ! This has passed 
into history; and the window. through which she escaped, and the rope by 
which she descended to the arms of "the little Nig," would be shown as 
evidence of the truthfulness of the romance, had the house been left 
standing and the rope preserved; but, unfortunately for posterity, they 



30 The Golden Northwest. 

are numbered among the things that were, and, inasmuch as she was but 
twelve and he twenty when he was stationed here, and they did not marry 
for over four years after this, and then in Louisiana, the faithful chronolo- 
gist is forced to write, upon the authority of one who knew both parties 
intimately, and who learned his first words in English from Jefit", that the 
whole story, or rather all the stories of the elopement, are of the purest 
fiction." 

Prairie du Chien at the present time is a town of about 4,000 inhab- 
itants. It is the county seat of Crawford county, and is the western term- 
inus of the Prairie du Chien branch of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. 
Paul Piailroad. We are again indebted to the paper published in the State 
Journal: " It is situated 300 miles below St. Paul, 70 above Dubuque, 600 
above St. Louis. 98 west of Madison, and 193 miles from Milwaukee. It 
is easily accessible from all points north and south, as well as east and 
west, as the C. D. & M. road passes up the river on the Iowa side, with 
which connections are made daily with all trains at North McGrregor. im- 
mediately opposite the Prairie, by the Milwaukee and St. Paul transfer. 
Trains east or west are transferred by means of the celebrated pile pontoon 
bridge of Gen, John Lawler, the patentee, ow'uer and l)uilder. It being 
the only railway bridge of the kind in the w'orld, an inspection of it will 
repay the visitor. It is 8,000 feet long, crosses both channels of the Mis- 
sissippi river at this point and an intervening island, and connects the 
Iowa and Prairie du Chien divisions of the M. & S. P. Railway. It is con- 
structed of two parts — the pile or stationary part, and the pontoon or 
movable part. The latter consists of two floating draws, one in each chan- 
nel, which, when closed from an unbroken track, affording a safe and rapid 
transfer, and when open leaving a clear space of 400 feet, permitting the 
widest rafts and largest tows to pass with ease and safety at all times. The 
eastern draw consists of three pontoons connected lengthwise, and repre- 
senting a distance of 396 feet. These pontoons are each twenty-eight feet 
wide, five feet high, and ten inches draft. The western draw consists of 
one pontoon 408 feet long, twenty-eight feet wide, four feet high, and twelve 
inches draft, of great buoyancy and strength, having a Howe truss passing 
through its entire length. When trains are passing over, the draft is in- 
creased to eighteen inches. The extreme rise and fall of the river is twei^ty- 
one feet, and to overcome the varying height of the planes between the pile 
bridge and the pontoon, a movable track is employed which is adjusted by 
powerful screws and movable blocks, operated by men who are stationed 
on the pontoons." 

In conclusion we may say that this enterprising town has always occu- 
pied a leading position in the history of Western development, and especially 
with the advance of our civilisation upon the upper Mississippi. There is. 
every reason to look for a continuance of its prosperity. 



The Golden Northwest. 31 



LAKESIDE. 



It has been our pleasure to show to the workl how Wisconsin can lodge 
a good part of the world in her hundreds of summer hotels, with plenty of 
room and conveniences left for thousands who sensibly prefer the primitive 
enjoyments of camp life. But the varied advantages of summer life in the 
Badger State do not stop here. One of the most engaging resorts in the 
section is entirely confined to cottage life, and every year a temporary com- 
munity of cultivated people from all parts of the country is established at 
Lakeside, a collection of summer cottages on the beautiful Lake Pewau- 
kee. Of the lake itself, we have written at some length in another place. 
Suffice it to say that at the quiet and lovely spot now under consideration, 
every advantage is enjoyed which could be realised by stopping at any other 
point in the locality, in addition to w^iich the possession of a little home 
of one's own for the summer is to be calculated. Lakeside has frequent 
steamer communication with the Oakton Springs and Oakton Springs Hotel, 
a fashionable watering place on the opposite side of the lake, besides which 
there are row-boats and yachts in abundance, according to the taste of the 
visitor. Altogether there are accomodations in the cottages for about one 
hundred guests, a large and elegant dining hall, drawing and reception 
room, billiard room, two bowling alleys, etc,, etc. Connecting the build- 
ings are over five hundred feet of veranda, affording a promenade 
unequalled at any other resort in the state. Bathing and fishing not to be 
excelled, airy and comfortable stables for private horses and carriages, and 
many other conveniences are attainable here. Lakeside is located on the 
north side of Pewaukee Lake, twenty-three miles west of Milwaukee, on 
the La Crosse division of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul E. E., and 
is equi-distant from Waukesha and Oconomowoc, being about ten miles 
from each of those places. Summer residence at Lakeside affords oppor- 
tunities for obtaining the benefit of the various Spas for which Waukesha 
county is celebrated. 

HARTLAND. 

Near this station, 108 miles from Chicago and 23 from Milwaukee, are 
a number of the beautiful lakes that stud the bosom of Waukesha county. 
Summer cottages for the entertainment of visitors abound on the east side 
of Pine Lake, on Beaver Lake, and on North Lake, all in the immediate 
neighborhood. The last of these has of late attained to a considerable 
popularity, vieing with the older resorts of Waukesha and Oconomowoc as 
a place for fashionable summer residence. 

NASHOTAH, DELAFIELD, AND GIFFORD. 

At Nashotah we strike the centre of Waukesha county's remarkable 
lake system. The station is 111 miles from Chicago, and 26 from Milwau- 
kee, on the C. M. & S. P. R. R. Nashotah is the entrepot for summer vis- 
itors, who yearly flock to resorts on Pine Lake and at Stone Bank to the 



32 The CIolden Northwest. 

north ; and south to Delalield, where the Nemahbin Springs Company are 
makmg improvements. Nashotah is the seat of a theological seminary 
connected with the Anglican church. The buildings of this institution 
cover some 6f the most attractive sites in the neighborhood, which abounds 
with positions for the erection of public buildings or residences, of surpassing 
beauty. Four lakes in a cluster, the two Nashotahs and the two Nemali- 
bins, surrounded by high banks, afford a variety of delightful landscape 
seldom equalled in other places. The fishing about this locality is so good 
that it, alone, attracts a large number of people from distant points every 
year, while all the other qualifications of a fashionable summer resort are 
possessed by Nashotah, Delafield, and their immediate surroundings, in 
the utmost degree. Among other means of enjoyment, the drives here- 
abouts are celebrated for their scenery, as well as for the excellence of the 
roads. 

Those who visit this part of Wisconsin with the especial object of angling, 
for the most part go to Delafield, where the popular Nagawicka Cottage 
furnishes an ideal home for the sportsman. A free omnibus connects all 
the trains with this house, and visitors are furnished with everything re- 
quired in the w^ay of boats, bait, tackle, and other conveniences. About 
tw'o miles south of Delafield enchanting drives lead from several directions 
to the observatory, on Government Hill. A gradual rise of heavily em- 
bowered hills leads to this commanding eminence, 670 feet above the sur- 
rounding country. A government observatory, 100 feet high, formerly 
occupied the brow of this hill. It was burned a few years ago, but will 
probably be rebuilt shortly. From this point a view for miles in every 
direction may be obtained, which has been regarded for its picturesque 
beauty and variety of scene, shade, life and tone, to rank among the finest 
landscape effects in the world. Over thirty lakes may be seen from this 
mount, and the meanderings of the streams which connect them are noted 
in glimpses of sparkling water, here and there, as they appear and disap- 
pear in the courses through dense woodland and open fields ; now hidden 
in deeply shaded valleys, and again winding through acres of golden grain. 

OCONOMOWOC. 

Oconomowoc, in the dialect of the Pottowatomies, means the Place of 
the Beaver, and this title was given by its Indian possessors to the locality 
where the flourishing city of the same name stands to-day. Oconomowoc 
has a population of about 2,500, and is situated on a narrow isthmus be- 
tween Lac La Belle and Fowder's Lake, in Waukesha county, Wis., 116 
miles from Chicago, by the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Pt. E. This 
town and its neighborhood W'Ould be interesting alone for the remarkable 
wealth and advanced development of its agricultural resources. One of 
the richest farming regions in the world, it has grown apace under the spur 
of modern improvements, in the methods and appliances of agriculture , 
until it presents to the eye the picture of a great garden, every inch of 



The Golden Noethwest. 



33 



which is made to produce a rich return for the husbandman's care. But 
to the general pubHc, Oconomowoc is better known and more widely appre- 
ciated as one of our leading American watering places. The climate to 
begin with, is delightful, and a welcome change to the visitor Itlase of the 
searching winds of the great lake shores, or the heavy atmosphere of the 
lower regions to the south and east. The rarilied condition of the air as 
the traveler approaches this point, becomes readily apparent to the senses, 
since from the east, from the borders of Lake Michigan, or from the tlat 
regions westward, there is a gradual rise, until at the town an elevation is 
reached of 300 feet above the level of Lake Michigan. 




OCONOMOWOC. 



Within a radius of nine miles from Oconomowoc, there are forty-one 
lakes, all offering the most enchanting scenery, and presenting nature in 
forms so prolific in variety and beauty that the pen is powerless to depict 
their attractiveness. The clear waters of all these lakes are faMy alive 
with fish of every variety sought for by the fisherman, while the romantic 
woods and hills around abound with game of all descriptions common to 
the state. In and about the town, on the various shores, a number of gen- 



34 The Golden Northwest. 

tlemen from Chicago, Milwaukee, and the South, have elegant villas, with 
spacious and handsome grounds attached. The jaunty fleet of steam and 
sailing yachts owned hy these cottage residents, forms a pleasing element 
in the summer idyls of the place. Near the Draper House and within the 
city limits, the elegant and hospitable country seats of Clarence and Harold 
Peck, George Shufeldt, George Severance, and Charles A. Dupee, all of 
Chicago, form an important adjunct to the charming social life and gayety 
of the resort. For the facilities of visitors who are not fortunate 
enough to own places, there are ample accomodations in the way of a fine 
hotel and numberless boarding places. Draper Hall, with ample and 
pleasant grounds sloping to the shores of both lakes, has long enjoyed an 
enviable reputation for the extreme neatness and perfection of its appoint- 
ments and the excellence of its cuisine. This house was opened in 1869 as 
a strictly summer hotel, but its popularity became shortly so great as to- 
justify its being kept open the year through, as it has been now for several 
years. A large number of trim and rakish yachts and row-boats are kept 
by the proprietor for the convenience of his visitors ; bowling alleys, wine 
rooms, and bath houses are within the grounds, and everything has been 
done that money and taste could do to make Draper Hall the embodiment 
of a summer resting place for bachelor, belle, or family. 

One of the institutions of Oconomowoc is the Young Ladies' Seminary,, 
presided over by Miss Grace P. Jones, a lady whose labors in her profession 
have earned for her the well merited reputation of being among Wisconsin's 
foremost educators. During the summer, academic pursuits are suspended 
at this establishment, and it is then devoted to the entertainment of guests, 
of whom there are enough to more than fill the capacious buildings every 
year. A quaint looking Episcopal chapel on Church Point, a charming 
little promiontory jutting into Fowler lake, makes a point of beauty in the 
landscape, providing as well for the religious wants of habitues. 

WATERTOWN. 

About fifteen miles west from the centre of the fascinating lake region 
whereof we have been treating in the papers immediately preceding this 
one, the tourist finds himself at the busy manufacturing and commercial 
city of Watertown, in Jefferson county. Concerning this fertile section of 
the state, we quote from a letter written us by a gentleman prominently 
connected with its business interests. He writes : " This is one of the in- 
terior counties of the state. Its surface is gently undulating, and inter- 
spersed with woodlands, prairies, and openings. It is abundantly watered 
by numerous lakes, rivers, rivulets and springs, and in places thickly 
covered with heavy forests containing a choice variety of timber, amply 
suificient for all commercial and economical purposes. The soil is rich 
and well adapted to the production of wheat, barley, rye, oats, potatoes, 
fruits, and other staple crops. The county contains 368,640 acres of land, 
wo-thirds of which are under cultivation, and more than three-fourths of 



The Golden Northwest. 35 

the remainder capable of cultivation. In regard to water power, it is one 
of the most favored counties in Wisconsin." 

Watertown, aptly so named, is a city of about 11,000 inhabitants, sit- 
uated on both sides of the Eock river, at a line between Jefferson and 
Dodge counties. It is distant 129 miles from Chicago, and 280 miles from 
St. Paul. At this point the Watertown and Madison branch of the Chicago 
Milwaukee and St. Paul Railway forms a junction with the Chicago and 
St. Paul line of the same road, affording the city ample railroad communi- 
cation with all points. The Minneapolis and Wisconsin division of the C. 
& N. W. R. E. also touches the town. The Eock river furnishes a magnifi- 
cent water power at this place, which has been utilised by the erection of 
three dams across the stream. It is a point of considerable business im- 
portance, and a number of extensive manufacturing enterprises are suc- 
cessfully carried on. There are several large flouring mills, a brick factory, 
saw mills, foundries, pottery works, wagon factories, and factories for the 
production of sashes, doors, blinds, and cabinet ware. 

As an educational centre, Watertown is worthy of mention. Two col- 
leges of more than local importance have their seat in this city ; one of 
them is a denominational school under the patronage of the German 
Lutherans, and the other is the College of Our Lady of the Sacred Heart, 
a branch of the celebrated Catholic college of Notre Dame, in Indiana. 
Two large halls, with a capacity for seating over 1,500 people, afford oppor- 
tvinities to the citisens for availing themselves of all the current amusements 
in the way of drama, opera, or lecture. Watertown is well stocked with 
the means of grace, as there are twenty flourishing churches within its 
walls, and the satisfactory amount of " prosperity within its palaces " may 
perhaps be referred by some to the church-going proclivities of its people, 
evidenced by the large number of slender spires that spring from its busy 
streets, holding their long fingers up far into the azure air in a manner 
significant of warning to the wrong-doer. 

The comfort of the traveling public is catered to by several comfortable 
hotels, and the pushing life of the energetic residen|;s finds variety and rest 
in trips to Lake Mills, a summer resort ten miles south of the city. From 
Watertown to this latter point, and in fact throughout the entire locality, 
finely graded roads offer seductive bait to citisen and stranger to enjoy their 
smoothness and attractivness of the local scenery, behind a spanking team 
which a very moderate outlay will always secure. The foreigner " doing " 
America need not think he has seen our country until, among other points 
of interest, he has paid a visit to Watertown and the splendid section of 
the Golden North- West in which it lies. 

POETAGE CITY. 

Portage City, the shire town of Columbia county, Wisconsin, is situated 
at the head of navigation on the Wisconsin river, as well as on the ship 
canal which connects the Wisconsin with Lake Michigan. The population 



86 Thk Golden Northwest. 

of this town is sonictliinfj; over .5,000, and it justly claims no mean com- 
mercial importance, as its lumber interest has for many years supported 
an extensive commerce with the leading markets of the country. Steamers 
and barges are in constant movement between this point and Green 13ay, 
and the traffic in the lumber and other lines of trade su])ports this thriving 
community in a maimer justifying the increase of population which has 
been noticeable during the past years. 

A very fine water power is derived from the Fox river canal, which has 
a, fall of seven feet, and this is utilised by a number of manufacturing 
establishments. It may be interesting to note that the water level at this 
place is 773 feet higher than the Atlantic ocean, 195 feet higher than Lake 
Michigan, and 17B feet higher than the Mississippi at the m(mth of the 
Wisconsin river. Portage is the northern terminus of the Madison and 
Portage line of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Eailroad. 



FOX LAKE. 

Fox Lake, in Dodge county, Wisconsin, is a pretty and prosperous 
town of 2,000 inhabitants, located on Beaver Dam river, at the foot of Fox 
lake. It has an excellent water powa^r, and contains a number of large 
manufacturing establishments. The lake is a beautiful body of water, 
nearly <nrcular in form and in the neighborhood of three miles in diameter, 
It is studded with romantic islands, and is a favorite resort of anglers. 
Forty thousand young Mackinaw trout are planted here annually, and 
these, with the numerous game fish indigenous to the waters, give the 
locality a deservedly high reputation for its piscatorial allurements. 

The only public institution of note in the vicinity is the Fox Lake Sem- 
inary, a mixed school, very highly esteemed throughout Dodge and the 
adjoining counties of the state. The land in this locality is high and roll- 
ing, and a good deal of prairie is encountered. The soil is a rich black 
loam, with clay sub-soil. Like all that part of the state, the country here 
is finely wooded, red and white oak, hickory, poplar, wdiite and black ash, 
basswood, white and red elm, bla(dv (dierry, and a limited amount of hard 
and soft maple, being the leading timbers. The agricultural products are 
principally wheat, the leading crop ; corn, oats, barley and potatoes. Rail- 
way connection is maintained with all Christendom by way of Fox Lake 
Juncti(m, two miles distant, on the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Bail- 
way. With this station the town is directly connected by a line of street 
cars. Fishing parties who visit Fox Lake will find reasonable facilities 
for obtaining boats and tackle, but those who desire to be prepared for the 
fullest enjoyment of the sport will find it to their advantage to procure an 
" Audubon " canvas folding boat in Chicago, with which portages may be 
made with no more trouble than carrying a hand-valise across a field would 
entail. 



The Golden Nokthwest. 37 

KILBOURN CITY AND DELLS OF THE WISCONSIN. 

The neighborhood of Kilbouni City is in many respects, without doubt, 
the most interesting point in the state of Wisconsin. Here the tourist halts 
to visit tlie Dells of the Wisconsin River, a treasure-house of the wildest 
scenery, than which the famed Ijeauties of the Canons of the Yellowstone 
or the picturesque Watkin's Glen in New York, are not greater. Nor is 
this locality alone interesting l^ecause of its wierd, impressive surroundings, 
for connected with it are reminiscences of Indian days, and tales and tra- 
ditions of the wild raftsmen's life of early white settlement. Almost every 
spot along the banks of the river for miles hereabout is identified with some 
legend of tragic interest. 

Kilbourn City is a small town of 1,200 inhabitants, situated on the Wis- 
consin river, at the crossing of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul R. R., 
and was named in honor of Byron Kilbourn, who was superintendent of 
that road at the time the village was located. It is distant from Chicago 
193 miles, from Milwaukee 109, and from St. Paul 225 miles. The first 
buildings, a dwelling house and a printing office, were erected in 1855, and 
in the following year a number of settlers came in. The crossing of the 
railway had been anticipated at a point a little lower on the river, and 
there quite a settlement had sprung up ; but when the bridge was finally 
begun at its present site, the houses were pulled down and the community 
almost to a family moved up to Kilbourn City. As to the general charac- 
ter of the surface in this vicinity, it is " generally rolling and broken by 
numerous ravines, the latter generally transverse to the Wisconsin river, 
which borders the village on the west and south. The soil varies somewhat 
after the fashion of a checker-board : a tract of clay covered heavily with 
white and black oak, alternating with a patch of light sandy soil marked 
with stunted burr-oaks and 'jack pines.' Clay or clayey loam predomi- 
nates, about four-fifths of the land being adapted for tillage. The leading 
products are wheat and other cereals, hops, potatoes, and apples." Some 
years ago Kilbourn City was the most important supply market for hops 
in the state, but the falling off in prices of late years has materially 
diminished the production. Several manufacturing establishments are in 
operation in and about the village, among which a saw mill and fiouring 
mill are the most important. There are many stores, five churches, a post 
office, several insurance offices, and the Bank of Kilbourn, the latter an 
institution of greater influence and importance than the size of the town 
would naturally suggest. It is presided over by the Hon. J. Bowman, who 
is also resident director of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul R. R., 
and has been honored several times with a seat in the Assembly and Sen- 
ate of Wisconsin. 

There is an excellent and popular hotel at Kilbourn City, the Finch 

House, where every accomodation needed by the traveler or summer visitor 

g supplied as completely as the most exacting watering place habitue could 



38 The Golden Northwest. 

ask. The public are to a great extent under obligation to the proprietor 
of this house, Mr. W. H. Finch, for the celebrity his efforts have given the 
Dells. With the latter, Mr. H. H. Bennett, the noted landscape artist of 
the Dells, divides the honor of having brought the region to public atten- 
tion. The cuts with which this paper is illustrated are from stereoscopic 
views taken by him. Copies of the originals are scattered over the whole 
civilised world, as there are scarcely any rivals of this enterprising and 
enthusiastic artist in the wholesale photographic business in the North- 
West. Kilbourn City is connected with other points by the Chicago, Mil- 
waukee and St. Paul R. R. and its connections. There are stage lines 
running daily to Baraboo and other local points. 

Of course by far the greatest claim that Kilbourn City has upon the 
attention of the outside world, consists in its position as the gateway of the 
Dells. Overshadowed by the greater attractions of these, still alone worthy 
to make the place one of interest, within the town limits there is a beauti- 
ful glen, only the more charming because one almost steps out of the street 
into its secluded depths. Just back of the handsome public school build- 
ing, and only a block or so from the Finch House, Taylor's Glen com- 
mences. It is a pity that such a romantic spot should be handicapped with 
such a plebian name, but in this respect it is not more unfortunate than 
Watkin's Glen, the very designation of which is enough to keep people 
away from it. Prosaic or not, this is Taylor's Glen, and the visitor is 
amply repaid for his trouble in rambling, or rather scrambling through it. 
At the head of the glen it is only an ordinary looking ravine, but advancing 
a few hundred feet the descent is considerable and the walls on either side 
nearly meet overhead. The sides of the canon are festooned with vines 
and climbing wild flowers, while tufts of sweet fern and mosses form foils 
of the richest velvet brown and green hues, setting off" the gaudy colors of 
the more pretentious wild flora around. Farther on the dell ends abruptly 
at a tunnel about a hundred feet in length, hollowed out of the solid rock. 
It consists of a single low chamber, dark as night, through which the 
pedestrian has to walk nearly doubled. At the lower mouth of the tunnel 
the scene opens on a miniature lake surrounded by high walls. Ascending 
the practicable side of this pocket, the path leads on to a commanding 
bluff" that overlooks a broad bend in the river. From above the subdued 
sound of water as it rushes through the rapids below the railroad crossing, 
greets the ear pleasantly, and the view commands a broad landscape, in- 
cluding river, hill and valley, too placidly beautiful for description. Here 
on the bluff one may well imagine the scene of savage sacrificial rites, while 
from its jutting front Indian maidens may have dashed themselves into the 
sorrow-healing depths below, as probably as from the thousand other rocks 
in the Golden North- West, said to have been thus consecrated to romance. 

Below this point the river winds its way to the south-west, amid scenes 
of savage beauty only less picturesque than the Dells above. To the geol- 
ogist, angler, or adventurous idler, nowhere in the country is such an 



The Golden Northwest. 



39 



opportunity for pleasure or study offered as here, in the chance to make a 
<;anoe voyage down stream to the Mississippi. Every season a number of 
scientists or loiterers bring their " Audubon " folding canvas boats to this 
place, and laying in a supply of necessaries at the Finch House, launch 
their slender but tough and trusty crafts upon the water. For the greater 
part of the voyage it is not necessary to take the boat apart, but in several 
places there are necessary portages next to impossible for anything but a 
boat like the "Audubon." For the benefit of the voyageur it should be 
mentioned that this staunch little vessel only weighs thirty-five pounds, 
including a sectional paddle, and when folded is no more of an impedi- 
ment than a moderately filled hand-valise. It is to be procured in Chicago. 




LELAND POINT, DELLS OF THE WISCONSIN. 



The trip from Kilbourn City through the Dells is made on the steamer 
Dell Queen, a staunch and handsome boat, built expressly with reference 
to the dangerous navigation of the river in this part of its course. The 
wrecks of other boats and the non-support of some still existing, shows the 
traveler plainly that he should be careful to enter the "jaws" only on the 
safest kind of a vessel. The master of the Dell Queen, Captain Bell, is 
probably one of the few living persons capable of safely navigating these 
treacherous waters ; his experience on this river dating from boyhood, and 



40 



The Golden Northwest. 



his knowledge of it, including every rock, eddy, current and bar from the 
headwaters to the Mississippi. 

From just above the splendid iron bridge of the Chicago, Milwaukee 
and St. Paul Railroad, that throws a span across the river 400 feet long, 
the Dell Queen points its bow up stream. On the right as the steamboat 
landing is left behind, the saw mill, perched upon a high bank, is passed, 
and then the river makes a wide bend to the northward, its right bank 
alternately hills and rolling mounds, covered with living green in every tint 




LONE ROCK, DELLS OF THE WISCONSIN. 



and shade. On the opposite side the bluffs rise abruptly from the water^ 
forming palisades the very miniature of those grand natural structures on 
the Hudson, These palisades slope gradually to the point where the sin- 
gular formation known as the Pillared Piocks occurs. Above these natural 
colonnades, in the face of the walls, myriads of swallows have built their 
nests, and their busy flight in and out of their tiny domiciles lends to the 
scene a feature of microscopic life and strife that delicately tones down 
the otherwise ruggedness of Nature's visage. Past the Pillars the shores 
bend inward to the Jaws of the Dells, a narrow passage guarded on either 
side by High Rock and Romance Cliff. A little further on Chimney Rock 
stands up, looking like the ghost of some deserted fireside. After Chimney 



The Golden Northwest. 



41 



Rock comes a little patch of clear sandy beach over which the sw^allows 
are flitting by thousands, fluttering as they liathe at the water's edge, and 
twittering to each other like so many little magpies. 

A sudden change from the innocent bird life of the beach just left, is 
suggested by the sight of an old wicked looking house that stands alone in 
a lonely place, at the second bend of the river to the north from Kilbourn 
City. The site is the old bed of the river, surrounded by the bluffs whose 
bases were once washed by its rapid flow. This is known as Allen's Tavern, 
and its founder still lives there, a recluse and misanthrope. Here this 
early settler planted himself in 1837, when the only white men in the 
region were the raftsmen who floated through the Dells on their way from 




LOOKING UP THE KIVEB FROM THE ELBOW, DELLS OF THE WISCONSIN. 

the pineries to the Great River. With these wild men, Allen's was a favorite 
stopping place. The rapids below made it necessary for them to double up 
crews, and here while the passage of the chute below was being effected, 
numbers of these desperate characters were wont to congregate for days 
together, and through the whole season there were always a greater or less 
number quartered at the place. Dark stories hang about the old house, 
and legends of men murdered for their money and thrown into the secret 
waters of the river, are w^hispered to this day in the gloaming, as the farm 



42 



The Golden Northwest. 



house circle gathers round the fire-place. Deadly quarrels have been fought 
out between the house and the shore, the victims' bodies falling prey to the 
water-fiend of the Dells, who never gives up his dead. Upon the scenes of 
those days light has never been thrown. Old man Allen could tell tales if 
he would, but he seldom speaks to his fellow-man, even casually, or un- 
less some necessary want compels him ; but lives in the old deserted tavern, 
whose windows, boarded up, shut in with him the ghosts and phantom 
cries and blood stains of a time and life forgotten by all around save this 
sole surviving actor. 




NAVY YABD, DBLLS OF THE WISCONSIN. 



North from Allen's the river rushes through the Narrows, a place famed 
for its dangerous navigation, and to this day the terror of lumbermen. 
In the spring of the year the current is so rapid and treacherous, and the 
channel shifts so often, that the chances are terrible of breaking a raft in 
pieces, and hurling logs and men helplessly down into the mad, foaming 
depths. The river at this place is only hfty-two feet wide, but nothing is 
seen on either side that could afford a foothold or even a hand grasp to 
the drowning man. Once in the water, the strongest, most expert swim- 
mer goes down and down, never to come up again. Above the Narrows 
the action of the current has chiseled out of the solid wall one of the most 



The Golden Northwest. 



43 



striking formations ever seen. It has become known as the "Navy Yard," 
from the fact that the rocks shelve outward from the base, and pointing 
obhquely up the stream, look for all the world like a row of ships' prows. 
At this point the view is grand and impressive in the extreme. On the 
opposite side of the river Black Hawk's Cave may be seen near the top of 
the bank. Here, hanging over the boiling torrent, the opening to his 
hiding place screened by the friendly foliage of crevice-grown trees and 
bushes, the bold and dreaded Indian prince lay secreted from his enemies 
for many months. Parties of whites and their native allies scouted up 




STAND BOCK, DELLS OF THE WISCONSIN. 

and down the Wisconsin, and all over the surrounding country ; but 
stowed away in his narrow hole in the rock. Black Hawk laughed at pur- 
suit until treachery exposed the place of his concealment, and he was 
taken prisoner. The truth of this chief's capture at the Dells has beeil 
bitterly assailed, but the statement rests, nevertheless, upon strong and 
nearly conclusive evidence. Lerun, who was an Indian agent in the local- 
ity at the time, stated, a few years ago, that he met Black Hawk under 
charge of One-Eyed Decorah, between Portage and Fort Winnebago, and 
that the former informed him that he was taken near his cave at the 
Dells. Yellow Thunder, an Indian chief who died recently at the age of 



44 



The Golden Northwest. 



120, often stated to residents of Kilboiirn City that Black Hawk was cap- 
tured within a few hundred yards of the cave, and that the great chief had 
repeatedly told him so, at the same time relating the circumstances of his 
capture in detail. 

Eattlesnake Rock, a high, round mound, looms up beyond the cave. 
Its name suggests the cause of its rather unpleasant notoriety, and the 
denizens of this cliff have been interesting, if not agreeable, subjects of 
consideration by the people around. Artist's Glen, a narrow and charm- 
ing httle spot, winds its 
moss-covered way into 
the hills near this, and 
prepares the visitor for 
the greater wildness and 
beauty of Cold Water 
Canon. Here the steam- 
er makes a landing, and 
a long plank walk leads 
the visitor into the depths 
of the canon. For some 
hundreds of feet the path 
winds between high walls 
whose altitude must be 
nearly 200 feet, and which 
almost meet at the top. A 
cold spring-water brook 
tiows at the bottom of 
the cleft, rendering pere- 

VIZOB LKDGE, DELLS OF THE WISCONSIN. gmiatlOU SOUiewhat dlf- 

ficult. Presently the sides widen, and the Devil's Jug is reached. This is 
a most peculiar and startling freak of nature, scarcely susceptible of de- 
scription, but suggestively named from its singular formation. 

Leaving Cold Water Canon, the succeeding objects of interest to the 
north are Ruffle Rocks, and Fortress Rock (vulgarly called Steamboat 
Rock, from the fact that steamboats are barely able to circumnavigate it). 
The latter is an island cut off from the mainland by the terrible force of 
the water, and stands out in the stream solitary, a monument of solid 
rock sixty feet high by three hundred in length, with about half that in 
width. All along the shores on either side points of interest crowd upon 
the eye — grottoes, chapels, caves, pillared caverns, through which a row- 
boat can easily push its way — and the most grotesque forms chiseled by 
the hand of Nature abound, until the eye is almost weary of the w^eird 
phantasmagoria presented to it. The Devil's Arm-Chair, a comfortable 
seat hewn out of rock, occupies a commanding position on the summit of 




The Golden Northwest. 



45 




COLD WATP U C VNON, 1)1 LLS OF THI WIS( ONSIN 



a high bhiff . Then con- 
veniently near, the 
Shark's Heads crop out ; 
gaunt, savage lookmg 
protuberances from the 
bank, wickedly waiting 
for something to crush 
against their vicious 
fronts. After these, Dia- 
mond Grotto ; and then 
there are rocks that look 
in shape exactly like the 
great oyster shell one 
sees hung out for signs 
in front of seaside res- 
taurants. One could 
easily imagine them to 
be the mummies of giant 
progenitors of our shell 
fish. Such forms and a 
hundred others occupy 
the attention until the 
crowning scenic glory of 
the dells is reached — 
the Witch's Gulch. 




46 



The Golden Northwest. 



Here again is a steamer landing, and with some difficulty the tough little 
Dell Queen is warped to the bank. A footway leads around the face of a 
bold promontory, and along the bank of a creek, following up to the sources 
of the little rivulet, far in the recesses of the gulch. Wild as is the scenery 
of Cold Water Canon, it is nothing to the sombre, rugged, satanic wildness 
of the Witch's Gulch. A short walk leads througha canon of great height, from 
which the light of day is all but excluded, only peeping in at the top be- 
tween crevices of the great lapping rocks, to Phantom Chamber, wherein 
the lights and shadows play in ghoulish sport, and where the force of the 

elements has produced a 
style of architecture only 
agreeable to phantom 
and perhaps crazy 
people. 

Two cascades of con- 
siderable height and vol- 
ume have to be sur- 
mounted in the explora- 
tion of Witch's Gulch, 
and when the moss- 
grown steps over the lat- 
ter and larger of these 
are climbed, the mind 
is forcibly called back 
to experiences in the Cave 
of the Winds at Niagara 
Falls. Ordinary care 
will avoid a wetting, and 
the climber soon finds 
himself in the air and 
sunlight again, in a 
pretty little vale between 
high hills just back of 

the gulch. A rest and a lunch here is a good preparation for the return trip, 

during which last there is leisure to fix in the mind the beauties that are to be 

carried away for future reflection. 

Let not the tourist think he has gazed upon the wild natural scenery of 

America, until he has visited the Dells of the Wisconsin. 

MAUSTON. 

This town, situated in Juneau county, is a small place of 1,200 inhab- 
itants, chiefly interesting because of its attractive surroundings and the 
facilities the neighborhood affords for hunting and fishing in their seasons. 
Mauston is 21'2 miles from Chicago, 128 from Milwaukee, and 197 from St. 




PHANTOM CHAMBEli, DELLS OF THK WISCONSIN. 



The Golden Northwest. 47 

Paul. White settlers came to Juneau county as early as 1827, but the site 
of this village was not reclaimed from the wilderness until the latter part 
of the following decade. The surface of the country is generally hilly, the 
soil consisting of clay in the western, and of sandy loam in the southern 
portions. Excellent timber abounds, principally pine, walnut, maple, and 
scrub oak. The leading products are wheat, oats, corn, rye, and hops. 
The stock and dairy interests are also important and growing. Wagon 
works, a plow factory, flouring mill, andiron foundry, constitute the manu- 
facturing enterprises of the place. 

The peculiarity and beauty of the scenery about Mauston is found in 
the number of bluffs, singly and in groups, that dot the face of the coun- 
try. These vary in height from one' hundred to two hundred and fifty feet, 
and are moulded in myriads of grotesque forms. Black Hawk's Council 
Bluff is the most noted, lying about one mile west of the village. Here it 
is said his last council was held by Black Hawk a short time before his 
capture at the Dells. Castle Eock, Lone Eock, Twin Bluffs, and the Devil's 
Chimney, are the other natural curiosities upon which the inhabitants 
pride themselves. To the sportsman or angler, Mauston is a point of more 
than ordinary interest. The rivers abound in fish of every variety and ex- 
ceptional size, while the country is one of the best shooting grounds in the 
west for bears, wolves, deer, foxes, ducks, geese, swan, quail, pigeon, par- 
tridge, and prairie chicken. Good accomodations are available to the 
visitor, who reaches the town conveniently by the Chicago, Milwaukee and 
St. Paul E. E., from any part of the country. 

TOMAH. 

Tomah is the junction of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul E. E. 
with the Wisconsin Valley E. E., and is also the southern terminus of the 
latter. Grand Eapids, an important manufacturing town, is reached from 
this point, also the great lumber market of Warsaw, Wis. Tomah is 238 
miles from Chicago, and 171 from St. Paul. The vicinity is celebrated for 
its magnificent trout fishing, which brings annually a large number of vis- 
itors from all parts of the West and South. An excellent hotel, the Dodge 
House, near the depot, supplies every comfort the traveler could desire. 
A free omnibus connects this house with the railroads. 

SPAETA. 

Sparta, a city of 3,500 inhabitants, is situated in the upper part of the 
La Crosse valley, twenty-five miles from the Mississippi, on the line of the 
Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul E. E. It is distant 255 miles from Chi- 
cago, and 154 miles from St. Paul. Both as a sanitarium and fashionable 
summer resort, Sparta enjoys a reputation unexcelled by any watering 
place in the country. The site of this town could not be exceeded for 
beauty of situation, and the culture resulting from its financial prosperity 
has been active in adorning it with all that art can do in rendering the 



48 



The Golden Northwest. 



beauties of nature still more enjoyable. Nowhere in the West is there a 
more beautiful village. It possesses handsome business and public build- 
ings, a number of church edifices graceful in architecture, private resi- 
dences constructed with excellent taste and generally surrounded by ample 
grounds neatly laid out. The streets are arljored with beautiful trees, and 
nothing indeed is wanting to impress the visitor with the quiet and elegance 
of the surroundings. The scenery in the vicinity of Sparta is already cel- 
ebrated. From the town may be seen Castle Eock, five miles distant, 
looming up over seven hundred feet above the level of the river, and dis- 
playing its grand propoi-tions to the eye as it lifts its head far above the 
numberless large bluffs that encompass the valley. The summit of this 




X^^Uf— 



TROUT PALLS, SPARTA. 



rock affords a view of the country for many miles around. The hills of 
Minnesota, far away across the Mississippi, are plainly visible, and in 
every direction a vista of surpassing loveliness opens to the spectator ; 
hills and valleys covered with verdure, and intersected by hundreds of 
sparkling running streams and brooklets, where the anglers delight to 
tarry and the royal speckled trout make their home by thousands. Pictu- 
resque drives extend and cross in every direction; romantic sites for 
camp grounds, often in the summer dotted with the snowy tents of tourists 
who hke to take their holiday an natureh abound everywhere, and the rod 
and fly of the expert angler whip and whisk along the banks of rivulet and 
cascade. Two years ago over twenty tons of speckled trout were captured 
in these waters. 



The Golden Nokthwest. 49 

Added to the remarkable healthfulness of Sparta, which had made it a 
resort for invalids for many years, since 1867 when the wonderful mineral 
springs were discovered, it has been visited for the benefit of the waters by 
legions of health seekers from every corner of the continent. At least 
25,000 visitors drank at these healing fountains during the season of 1875. 
The springs are free to everybody, and are conveniently situated near the 
palatial hotel Iniilt some years ago for the accomodation of the public. 
The Warner House, opposite Court Park, in which is the principal spring, 
has one hundred and fifteen rooms, and accomodations for several hundred 
guests. It is open summer and winter, and is well calculated to suit the 
comfort and convenience of invalids and families, as forty of the rooms are 
en suite and on the ground floor. During the regular season, June to Sep- 
tember, the Warner House is the centre of fashion and gayety at this pop- 
ular watering place. A fine orchestra is attached to the establishment, 
and dancing is the order of every evening in the pleasant ball-room of the 
house ; regular balls and hops are also given every w^eek. The table at 
this house is justly noted for its variety, profusion, and excellent cHisine; 
the speckled trout of the region form a specialty upon wdiich the proprie- 
tors and their chief cook particularly pride themselves. The comfort, 
€ase and speed with which it is possible to take a trip to Sparta from any 
point on the map, via the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Eailroad, in 
addition to the wonderful and varied attractions of the vicinity, together 
assure for the place a leading rank among the great watering places of the 
United States. 

BANGOE. 

One of the favorite hunting and fishing resorts in the State is Bangor. 
"255 miles from Chicago, and sixteen miles from the Mississippi, near the 
La Crosse river. It is accessible by the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul 
Railway, and offers many inducements to the sportsman not to be encoun- 
tered perhaps anywhere else. Deer, foxes and wild turkeys, together with 
wild fowl, abound in the immediate neighborhood. A fine trout stream 
flows through the village, and excellent bass, pickerel, pike and other fish- 
ing is to be had in the La Crosse river near by. Good trained bird dogs 
may be hired here without trouble, and a large pack of fox hounds is kept 
hy the Hon. John Bradley, who lives at Bangor in the summer. Fair 
hotel accomodations are obtainable. 

LA CROSSE. 

La Crosse, which ranks as one of the most important cities on the upper 
Mississippi, is a town of 10,000 inhabitants, on the east bank of the great 
river, at the mouth of the La Crosse. Besides its ample river communica- 
tions, it has extensive and important railway connections reaching out in 
all directions. The Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul R. R. crosses into 
Minnesota at this point, over an iron bridge, one of the finest structures of 

4 



50 



The Golden Northwest. 




The Golden Northwest. 51 

the kind in the country, which was built for them by the American Bridge 
Company in 1876. The superstructure is of all wrought iron, for a single 
track railway, and consists of five fixed spans, 150 feet each, crossing the oZ(^ 
channel, i. e., between the Wisconsin shore and Minnesota Island, and of 
two spans 164 feet each ; 1 span 250 feet, and a pivot span 360 feet, cross- 
ing the main channel, i. e., between Minnesota Island and the Minnesota 
shore, thus making the total length of iron superstructure of the bridge 
1,678 lineal feet. The substructure is of masonry resting upon pile found- 
ations. The superstructure rests upon stone abutments and piers. The 
eastern terminus of the Southern Minnesota E. E. is -also at this point, 
and close connections are made for Eushford, Lanesboro, Spring Valley, 
Eamsey, Albert Lea, Wells, and Winnebago City. La Crosse is 129 miles 
from St. Paul, and 280 from Chicago, by the C. M. & S. P. E. E. 

The first white man to locate in the wilderness where now this thriving 
community flourishes, was Nathan Myrick, who came in 1841 and estab- 
lished himself as an Indian trader on the island, whence in the following- 
year the natives allowed him to move to the site of the present city. My- 
rick was soon after joined by J. B. Miller, and in 1845 John M. Levy came 
in from Prairie du Chien. At this time the total white population was 
only twelve — seven males and five females. The city occupies an extremely 
eligible situation on a level prairie between the river and a line of bluffs 
some distance back of it. This prairie was once, and up to the time of 
white settlement, the great ball playing ground of the Indian tribes for 
hundreds of miles around. Every year the nations buried the hatchet and 
came to the smooth plain by the Father of Waters, to engage in friendly 
tournaments. The early French visitors called the peculiar game played 
La Crosse, and from the circumstance of this having been the grand capi- 
tal of the aboriginal "national game," the settlement was called afterward 
by the same name. Just above the town the Black river empties into the 
Mississippi, })ringing down its rapid current the wealth of the pineries, in 
the handling of which the place has such an important interest. Down 
this stream, which rises far up in the north-western corner of the state, 
many million feet of pine logs are annually rafted down to La Crosse, 
where the greater part is cut up into lumber. 

A number of large establishments are devoted to the lumber manufac- 
ture. One of the principal is that of John Paul, Esq., an old resident, who 
came to the place in 1857. Since that time Mr. Paul has been intimately 
identified with the development and prosperity of the town. The disasters 
of that dark era in the financial history of the country, swamped the enter- 
prises and means of this gentleman, but with a will to win success anyway, 
and with the aid of a clear head, good business judgment, and strong 
hands, he soon repaired the damages of the panic, and to-day stands among 
the leading men in the business in La Crosse and the whole North-West. 
Mr. Paul owns and operates a mammoth two-gang saw mill, in connection 
with which is all the machinery and facilities for producing lath, shingles. 



52 The Golden Northwest. 

pickets, and so forth. He has branch lumber yards atRushford, Peterson, 
Lanesboro, Isinours, Fountain, Wykoff, Spring Valley, Dexter, Albert Lea, 
Alden, Dele van, Mapleton, Good Thunder and Brownsville, Minnesota, 
and at New Albin and Lansing, Iowa. 

Another lumber enterprise equally as extensive is conducted by Mr. 
Charles L. Colman. This now rich and influential manufacturer came to 
La Crosse when it was yet a small settlement. Li 1854 he built a modest 
little saw mill. He was burned out, rebuilt, was burned out again, and in 
1875 his present magnificent mill property was erected. Its dimensions 
are 60x197 feet, with two large gang saws. The capacity is 120,000 feet of 
lumber per day. Mr. Colman is one of the heaviest operators in his line 
in the West, owning several large lumber yards along the line of the 
Southern Minnesota Railroad, as well as immense tracts of pine land on 
the Black and Chippewa rivers. He was mayor of the city in 1868, and is 
honored and respected by his fellow-citisens to an extent that would render 
almost any political ambition easy of realisation. Ex-Governor C. C. 
Washburn is also extensively identified with the lumber interest of LaCrosse, 
being the principal proprietor in the property of the La Crosse Lumber 
Company. The mill of this cori^oration, erected in 1872, is said to have 
cost nearly $100,000, and has a capacity of 125,000 feet per day. 

Among the commercial institutions of the city, the first in rank is the 
great wholesale and retail dry goods house of Mons Anderson. This con- 
cern, of which La Crosse is excusably proud, does a business amounting to 
over half a million dollars annually, its connections extending throughout 
Minnesota, Dakota and Iowa. The white marble business palace, four 
stories high, owned and occupied by Mr. Anderson, is perhaps the most 
striking architectural feature of the city. Its proprietor is a native of Nor- 
way ; he started in l)usiness here in 1852, and has since succeeded in build- 
ing up a business that entitles him to the flattering designation by which 
he is known through the North- West, "the dry goods prince of LaCrosse." 
In addition to the concerns we have mentioned, there are many others of 
considerable importance which we have not space to notice in detail. The 
manufactures of leather, flour, agricultural implements and machinery are 
extensively carried on. 

A number of elegant churches, schools, county, city, and other public 
buildings, strongly evidence the general wealth, culture, and public spirit 
that make La Crosse the delightful place for business and residence that 
it is. The private houses, many of them, are homes that for taste in 
structure and appointment are not to be exceeded in the metropolis. Hotel 
accomodations in such a commercial and industrial center could not fail 
to be good. The leading hotel, the Bobbins House, is everything that 
could be desired in the way of comfort, elegance, and convenience to the 
leading trade localities. A generous table, ample stables, airy and hand- 
somely furnished rooms, afford every facility to the tourist or business man 
that any unexceptionable hotel can. 



The Golden Northwest, 



53 



Among the institutions of this city may be mentioned the La- 
Crosse Business College. Having been founded here a little more than 
ten years ago, under the most adverse circumstances and against the 
expressed opinion of many who feared for its success, and through its 
able management and thoroughly practical course it rapidly advanced 
in public favor. Of instruction it soon became the leading institution 
of its kind northwest of Chicago, both in point of numbers and 
the success of its graduates. In the states of Missouri, Minnesota 
and Iowa, it has supplied so many business houses with account- 
ants, that its name is a household word ; while to some other col- 
leges of the surrounding country it has supplied teachers of the art of pen- 
manship. Now, without a word of explanation this may seem an over- 
drawn statement, but with the explanation that discarding the idea that 
theory was enough to secure success in teaching book-keeping, this college 
has kept jyractical hook-keepers — those wdio have followed it as a business — 
as teachers in the commercial department ; practical working operators in 
the telegraph department ; practicing lawyers as instructors in commercial 
law, and the best teachers in its literary department, paying in this depart- 
ment a higher salary than is paid to the majority of college professors of 
the state, thus securing to each one of its branches that practical knowl- 
edge so necessary in fitting young men and women for the counting house 
and school room. With this explanation, its immense success is easily 
accounted for. 




LA CROSSE BUSINESS COLLEGE. 



CHAPTER III. 



SKETCH OF MINNESOTA — WINONA — WABASHA — LAKE PEPIN — FKONTENAC — RED 

WING — HASTINGS — ST. PAUL — FORT SNELLING — MINNEHAHA FALLS — 

MINNEAPOLIS — LAKE MINNETONKA — WHITE BEAR LAKE — 

DULUTH — FARIBAULT — NORTHFIELD — AUSTIN. 

TO a greater extent than any other the state of Mmnesota is a close 
connecting hnk between the civiHsation of this country and a past 
under conditions of unmitigated savagery. But a few years ago compara- 
tively, and Minnesota was still a wilderness. At as late a period as 18(33 
the Indians were still strong enough to perpetrate the massacre at New 
Ulm, and to ravage a good part of the commonwealth. That w^as only a 
matter of fifteen years ago, but times have changed wonderfully in the rich, 
fast-settling state since then, and the theatre of strife with the aborigines 
is transferred to localities far westward. 

Minnesota has been the lode star of adventurers from the world over 
for two centuries. Even when the first inklings of our north-western 
geography began to dawn upon the Jesuit fathers and their co-laborers in 
the exploration of the lakes and the Mississippi, the beautiful land beyond 
the great river fired the imaginations of early Canadian settlers, and even 
Europe grew interested in the far north-western country, as tales of its 
wonderful soil, climate and scenery were carried back to the outposts of 
white civilisation. Father Menard, a Jesuit missionary, while crossing the 
Kewaunee peninsula in 1658, became lost in the dense forest. His fate 
can only be conjectured, but he was no doubt tortured to death by the 
natives, as his cassock and breviary were found among the Dakotas many 
years afterward, preserved as "medicine charms." This devoted priest 
has, therefore, the triple crown of having been the first white man, the 
first Christian missionary, and the first martyr in the history of Minnesota. 
In 1680, Father Hennepin, already often referred to in these pages, christ- 
ened the Falls of St. Anthony with the name of his patron saint, and the 
same locality was the scene of his captivity among the Dakotas. Within 



The Ctolden Northwest. 55 

a few years the romantic Baron La Hontan visited the territory, which he 
afterward introduced to the attention of the Old World through his geo- 
graphical romance " La Longue Reviere." La Sueur, in 1700, navigated 
the St. Peter's as far as the Blue Earth, building a log fort, which he called 
L'Hullier, on the banks of the Mankato. To this pioneer is ascribed the 
Jaonor of having first of our race broken the soil of Minnesota for cultiva- 
tion. Captain Jonathan Carver, in the year of American indepedence, 
brings the record of w^hite exploration down to the present century. Zebu- 
Ion Pike published a narration of his share in the labors of the expedition 
to the Upper Mississipi (1802), and later the names of Cass, Schoolcraft, 
Nicollet and Fremont, Keating, and Long are identified with the opening 
up of this glorious empire to cultivation and commerce. 

Before the admission of Wisconsin as a state, all that portion of Min- 
nesota east of the Mississippi river belonged to the territory of Wisconsin. 
When, however, that event happened the people of the young territory were 
left for a time without a government, but the Hon. John Catlin, Secretary 
of the territory of Wisconsin, assumed the governorship, the late governor 
having accepted office under the state organization, and held elections for 
•delegates to Congress, who were admitted. The territory of Minnesota was 
created by act of Congress March 3, 1849, and a few days afterwards Gen- 
eral Taylor, whose presidential term had commenced the day after the bill 
was passed, organised a territorial government by appointing the following 
■officers: Alexander Ramsey, Governor; C. K. Smith, Secretary; A. 
Goodrich, Chief Justice ; and B. B. Meeher and David Cooper, Associate 
Justices of the Supreme Court of Minnesota ; H. L. Moss, District Attor- 
ney, and Joshua H. Taylor, U. S. Marshal. 

The region covered by the act organising the territory of Minnesota, is 
in extent about four times as large as the area of Ohio. It extends from 
the Mississippi and St. Croix rivers, and the western extremity of Lake 
Superior to the Missouri and White Earth rivers on the west, a distance 
of over 400 miles ; from the Iowa line (latitude 43 deg. 30 min.) on the 
south, to the British line (latitude 49 deg.) on the north, also a distance of 
over 400 miles — the whole comprising an area of 166,000 square miles, or 
106,000,000 acres. At one point along the northern boundary, viz. : Lake 
of the Woods, the line extends to 50 deg. — a fact not generally known — 
while on the southwestern part it extends for seventy miles below the Iowa 
line to the junction of the Missouri and Sioux rivers, in latitude 42 deg. 30 
min. ; thus running through seven and a half degrees latitude, or a distance 
due north of 525 miles. 

"Almost the whole of this is a fine, rolling prairie of rich soil, a sandy 
loam, adapted to the short summers of the climate, and which produce 
bounteously, nay luxuriantly. The surface of the country, excepting the 
Missouri plains, is interspersed with numerous beautiful lakes of fresh 
water — abounding in the finest fish, and their banks covered with a fine 



56 The Golden Northwest. 

growth of woodland. The land is about equally divided between oak open- 
ings and prairies, the whole well watered by numerous streams navigable 
for steamers."* 

During the few years that have elapsed since Minnesota came into 
political being, vast changes have occurred within and without her borders. 
Eich cities line the banks of her rivers. The great Mississippi rising in 
one her own lakes, Itasca, flows to the Gulf of Mexico, its surface unceas- 
ingly tormented by the bulfetings of numberless paddle wheels, that move 
the commerce of an empire. Far reaching iron arms stretch out from 
her centers, gathering to her storehouses the wealth of a vast region, and 
bringing to her borders the people of the world. Far to the northwest even 
of Minnesota the tide of emigration has set, while the country westward is 
rapidly filling up with settlers. Great as is the present importance of the 
North Star State, productively, commercially, and politically, it is as noth- 
ing compared with what it must become when the promise of the future 
great empire of the Golden Northwest shall have been fulfilled. 

WINONA. 
Winona, named for the beautiful Indian maiden of the local legend 
which has been immortally preserved by the pen of Longfellow and others, 
lies on the western shore of the Mississippi river, on a broad expanse of 
prairie. Like many, indeed almost all important points in the North Star 
State, it is famous for the salubrity of its climate, invalids flocking here 
from every quarter of the country. Generally known as the Queen City of 
Minnesota, the town has many claims to the title. The largest city in the 
southern part of the state, it is favored in being one of the leading grain 
markets of the Golden North-West. Added to this it is the seat of the 
State Normal School, an institution noted for its educational advantages. 
The surroundings of Winona are delightful, but the tourist must journey 
a little before finding the hotel facilities necessary to an enjoyment of the 
lovely region around. These will be found near by, and the reader will 
read of them in the following papers. 

WABASHA. 

Stopping in the wealthy modern city of St. Paul, and glancing over its 
princely places, its great warehouses and broad business thoroughfares, 
the traveler would scarcely imagine that within seventy miles the wildest 
scenes of nature could be encountered, and all the excitements of frontier 
life enjoyed. Yet the lovely resort and hunting ground of Wabasha is only 
that far away from the capital. Opposite from the mouth of the Chippewa 
river, and at the southern limit of Lake Pepin, this point combines natural 
attractions and commercial advantages with considerations of the greatest 
historical interest. As to the former, there is the navigation of the upper 
Mississippi, and the traflic on the Chippewa, navigable for steamers for 
ninety miles from its mouth. And as to the latter, here it is that the cap- 

*Minnesota and its Eesourees. 



The Golden Northwest. 57 

ital of the great Sioux nation existed for centuries before the pale face of 
the European arrived to disturb the savage rule of the red man. All the 
grand councils of the various tribes included in this confederation as a 
family, were gathered together here periodically. Ambassadors from 
nations far distant were received and feasted much as civilised people re- 
ceive -And fete such functionaries now. At Wabasha the wigwam of the 
grand sachem was located, and from this point radiated the governmental 
administration, such as it was, of the Sioux or Dakota Indians. 

But about the ancient Indian capital traces of a still older race exist, 
and the archaeologist may find at this place ample opportunities for the 
pursuit of his special science. As in other localities along the Mississippi, 
the Mound Builders have left here the traces of their handiwork. Hundreds 
of mounds surround the present city, inviting the curious to delve into their 
depths and unearth the hidden historical treasures that must lie there 
buried. 

The vicinity is the point of entrance for mimerous steamers into the 
Mississippi, and besides the Chippewa, already referred to, the Tombia and 
many smaller streams discharge near here their wealth of crystal tribute 
to the Father of Waters. Everything calculated to entrance the sports- 
man, angler, or idler, is spread out here with the profusion only known to 
bounteous Nature. Game fish of all varieties, and wild fowl, together with 
deer, elk, foxes, wolves, and other game in plenty, make the neighborhood 
of Wabasha the paradise of the hunter and fisher. 

From the summit of the bluffs that rise back of the town, the view is 
gained of Pepin and the contiguous country, a landscape, including points 
and beauties, to be discussed in succeeding numbers. 

LAKE PEPIN. 

We leave the bright little town of Wabasha, rich in its history, as the 
capital city of the Sioux Kings, long before the restless, busy Anglo-Saxon 
with his iron horses, and puffing, smoking marine monsters came to dis- 
turb the quiet of the land and waters of Minnesota. We leave it with re- 
gret, softened by anticipations of a feast to the eye and mind, the glories 
of which have been painted in rosy tinted hues upon the canvas of our 
imagination for years. Only a few miles distant, and on the same side of 
the river, we find the village and port of Read's Landing, opposite the 
mouth of the Chippewa river, and half a mile below Lake Pepin, the ob- 
jective point of this particular trip. If the reader could only realise from 
experience of the thousand beauties, each one susceptible of almost illimit- 
able subdivision, which cluster about this region of pure and sublime 
beauty, he might understand the difficulty of conveying even a faint idea 
of the subject, wdthin the limits of a brief sketch. All that might be writ- 
ten of the lovely lake and its surroundings, would alone fill a volume larger 
than this one. 



58 The Golden Northwest. 

It has been wickedly said by somebody, that there is a large and re- 
spectable class of people in the East, who like to stand on Plymouth Eock, 
and gazing seaward, call everything behind them, "out West!" It is 
probably some such sort of folk, who ignoring the wonderful beauties of 
their own favored land, rush annually, before the snows are melted from 
their roofs, to secure passage across the ocean for their summering in the 
old world. To people of that kind, this wonderful manifestation of nature's 
loveliness w^ould probably represent nothing more than a big pond in the 
far North-West, whereas in reality the facilities of modern travel bring the 
locality practically to their very doors, and afford the opportunity for visit- 
ing a scene of interest and grandeur not to be exceeded, and hardly ever 
equalled, by the famous but hackneyed sights and sites of Europe. I 
couldn't help meditating in this vein, as reclining on Templar Rock, one 
day, I drank in with the pleasures of a sunset on Lake Pepin, its clear, 
calm waters, lit up by the unspeakable splendor of eventide in the Golden 
North-West. 

Lake Pepin is not, strictly speaking, a lake at all ; that is, it is not 
entirely surrounded by land ; and that at least was considered necessary 
before a body of water could set itself up in business as a lake, when the 
writer was at school. In reality the " lake " is only a part of the mighty 
Mississippi, which widens here for five and twenty miles, forming a dis- 
tinct body to all intent, from three to five miles in width. It is distant but 
three hundred and forty miles from Chicago, and only about sixty-five from 
St. Paul, and is only but easily and very comfortably accessible by land 
via the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul R. R. A single day's ride from 
the western metropolis, and there you are ! Remembering that Lake Pe- 
pin is a part of the " Father of Waters," you will be surprised at the entire 
absence of any perceptible current here, and if you have ever traveled on 
the lower Mississippi you will not unwillingly miss the tawny color of the 
water you hesitated so long to drink. The clear, deep, unbroken expanse 
of water is an astonishment to the tourist who never before visited the 
upper Mississippi. Not an island dots the surface of the lake to obscure 
the view of its surroundings, and the clear, high atmosphere of the region 
constitutes a telescope without speck or flaw, through which the eye may 
discern objects at distances inconceivable to those unacquainted with the 
Golden North-West. Encircling the lake innumerable giant bluffs raise 
their lordly battlements, in all the variety of form and design in which 
Nature's divine architect has so delighted to mould his work. Many of 
these bluffs rise to an altitude of 500 feet, and in size, as well as in form, 
there is every conceivable diversity. Sharp, peaked pyramids relieve 
mounts whose gently curved lines again set off magnificent cones, and 
these form foils to huge, square, castellated masses, reminding one of his- 
toric piles seen long ago in the not more lovely Rhineland. Never did mir- 
ror of faultless crystal reflect the image of woman's beauty more perfectly, 
than do the waters of this lake reproduce the inverted images of these 



The Golden Northwest. 



59 




60 The Golden Northwest. 

titanic sentinels, who for untold ages have looked calmly upon their rejec- 
tions in its bosom. Clear cut, sharp and vivid, every tree, bush, shadow 
and cloud are seen in the mysterious depths of Pepin. 

Among the points remarkable, even where everything is remarkable, 
" Sugar Loaf," a large bluff whose contour is suggested by its name, and 
"Maiden Kock," are worthy of particular mention. The latter especially 
will always excite the lively interest of all who visit the spot, and the re- 
cital of the sad legend, to which the lofty, fearful height owes its designa- 
tion, must ever impress the hearer with thoughts of more than passing 
sadness and sympathy. The legend has been told around camp-fires, by 
the dusky sons of the neighboring forests, related again by early pioneers 
to the present generation, and it has won a place in both the prose and 
poetry of our race and time ; still even yet it is not widely known, and I 
may be pardoned for repeating it. As a tale of woman's love and devotion, 
of faith and desperation, ending in a tragic death, worthy the proud daugh- 
ter of a savage monarch, the legend of " Maiden Rock " deserves immor- 
tality. 

"A chief of the Dakotas, called by the French La Feuille, had a beauti- 
ful daughter known as Winona. Lovely as only the Indian maiden of 
early day was known to sometimes be, ere yet the taint of our contact had 
degraded the race, Winona was peerless among the Dakota belles. It was 
whispered that the rose tint in her cheek, that distinguished her from her 
sisters of the forest, arose from blood inherited honestly from a Canadian 
beauty that her princely father had captured and lov.ed — and killed in a 
tit of jealousy. As the maiden grew to maturity, the squaw life of the 
tribe palled upon her. She detested the menial labor of the field ; she 
contemned the advances of the young braves whose very glances her female 
companions sighed for. The old chief, her father, looked with suspicion 
upon her antipathy to the traditions and customs of the tribe, and often 
wished the rose blush in her cheek might die out, that the bitter memory 
of his white love might also vanish. For in this color, peculiar to his 
white enemy, he superstitiously detected "bad medicme." As Winona 
neared the age of sixteen, her father determined that the taint should be 
flooded out by a pure Indian union, and cast about him for a proper suitor. 
With all his harshness he yet loved the maiden, and was willing within 
some limit to consult her wishes. Al^out this time a young white hunter, 
whose name history has failed to record, appeared among the tribe. Every 
drop of European blood inherited by Winona from her white mother, 
throbbed in her veins as the pale stranger whispered in her willing ear his 
tale of love and longing. To him the lovely half-breed plighted her troth, 
and went on her knees before the chieftain for his consent to their nuptials. 
La Feuille was inexorable ; the white man's children should never call him 
ancestor, and the pale faced lover was thrust forth from the camp. That 
further trouble should be saved, a husband was at once picked out for Wi- 
nona, a warrior who, though poor, had made an excellent record for loyalty 



The Golden Northwest, 



61 



and bravery in the tribe. Her brothers presented him with the outfit con- 
sidered proper for the bridegroom of a princess, the medicine men one and 
all decided that the union was the most auspicious event that could hap- 
pen the band, and everything was prepared for the event, which poor Wi- 
nona regarded as a sacrifice worse than death. 

At this^time her tribe and family departed from their habitation on the 
St Peters river, to visit the locality where Prairie du Chien now stands. 
Before crossing the Mississippi they halted at the bluff celebrated in these 
days as the " Maiden's Leap." At the foot of this the Indians were wont 
to gather blue clay with which to paint themselves. Here, surrounded by 




MAIUKN KOCK, ON THE MISSISSIPPI. 



all the natural beauties that the savage mind could appreciate, it w^as de- 
termined to hold Winona's wedding. Day after day the company halted, 
and the dusky wooer pleaded. Gentle means failing, severity and threatened 
torture was tried. At last poor Winona, deprived of her lover and sentenced 
to live with a man she loathed, on the day appointed for her marriage, 
chmbed to the top of the cliff, and in full sight of her companions and 
relatives, upbraided them with their cruelty, and began her death song. 
The desperate resolve of the princess was evident, and while the old chief 
stood below^ and begged her by all the filial obligations her faith demands 



62 



The Golden Northwest. 



to desist, her brothers ran with lightning tieetness to reach her ere yet it 
was too late. But with the determination unchanged by pleading or threat, 
she denounced the father and family who had broken her heart, and pre- 
cipitated herself from the brow of the cliff into the depths below. Where 
Winona's body struck the water, tradition says the crystal flood always 
boils and bubbles at night. The truth of this might probably be learned 
from the hundreds of youths and maidens who visit the spot by moonlight 
of summer evenings. But perhaps their own affairs occupy too much 
attention to leave room for thought of poor dusky Winona, who died rather 
than marry without love. 




The Golden Northwest. 6S 



FEONTENAC. 



The accompanying view will afford the reader a faint conception of the 
beauties of Frontenac. But it is scarcely to be expected that a small illus- 
tration should convey to the mind a scene which an intelligent verdict has 
designated the "Newport of the North- West." Situated as it is on Lake 
Pepin, it is scarcely necessary to say much of its surroundings, since they 
are treated of in another place. The natural attractions of the place are 
greater than any other in the state, considered as a combination of hunt- 
ing, fishing, boating, bathing, and the numerous delights of a fashionable 
watering place. Frontenac is not only what kind nature has designed it 
should be, but art and civilisation have molded the raw material until at 
this time it presents the aspect of a great resort richly deserving of the 
flattering name it has been accorded. To the thousand points of interest 
up and down the lake, and in and out of the great and smaller rivers about, 
steamers and steam yachts ply incessantly ; while the sailing for scores of 
miles, for pleasure boats, is not anywhere to be excelled. One particular 
lure held out by Frontenac will be ever appreciated by the sportsman : it 
is one of the few localities left in the North-West, anywhere near civilisa- 
tion, where the grouse shooting is good. This fact is not unknown to our 
votaries of the gun and bag, and hundreds hie themselves every season to 
the delightful hills and dales of this vicinity, intent upon the honorable 
slaughter of the noble bird. 

The village itself is not visible in the cut presented. It stands upon a 
plateau above and a little distance back of the river. The long, sharp 
cape seen extending into the lake, is Point au Sable, whereon tradition 
tells us the earliest military post established in the region was erected, far 
back in the past, when Count Frontenac was French governor of Canada, 
and sent out the first expedition for the exploration of the Mississippi river. 
There is an excellent hotel at this place, located only a few rods from the 
neat depot of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Piailroad, by which line 
the beautiful resort is easily reached from any place in the country. 

BED WING. 

Eed Wing is a flourishing town, supplying a thickly settled and rich 
agricultural country, of which it is the business centre. It is also the 
county town of Goodhue county. Red Wing is 369 miles from Chicago, 
and forty from St. Paul, on the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul R. R. 
It does not possess any particular attractions not shared by the many other 
prosperous communities to be found in every part of the state. 

Near Red Wing the C. M. & S. P. road makes a curve around Barren 
Rock, on the very edge of the river. At this bend of the Mississippi one of 
the noblest views to be encountered in the West, feasts the eye. A broad 
expanse of water, backed by hills and valleys extending to the distant 
horizon, and covering a range of many miles, constitutes a landscape of 
almost unequaled grandeur. 



64 



The Golden Northwest. 



HASTINGS. 

This interesting town, with a population of 5,000, is the county seat of 
Dakota county, and is a phice of more than a little commercial and indus- 
trial importance. It is situated on the west bank of the Mississippi, at the 
crossing of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul R. E., nineteen miles from 
St. Paul. The white settlement was begun in 1852, and since that time 
the adjacent country has grown in population to an extent that renders 
Hastings a considerable local market. The manufacturing enterprises 
conducted are : two saw mills, three large flouring mills, two foundries, 
several cabinet ware and wood-work factories, four wagon factories, and 
other establishments of less importance. Hastings is not deficienf^^in ob- 




1111 ^ll■''~J■^--ll 1 I NEAR HASTINGS. 



jects of interest. The interesting formation known as the limestone walls 
occur near the railroad crossing, extending for some distance on the river. 
They are not high, but singularly regular and perfect in form, and sur- 
mounted by bluffs covered with bright verdure, form a spectacle ever to be 
regarded with admiration. The Vermilion Falls, a handsome fall sixty 
feet high, in the neighborhood, besides fishing and hunting grounds of 
great desirability — all these in combination render Hastings a place worth 
visiting. 

ST. PAUL. 

One of the most important political, commercial and railroad centres, 
not only in the North-West, but in the whole country, is St. Paul, the cap- 
ital of Minnesota and county seat of Ramsey county. The two great lines 
of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railroad here form a junction. 



The Golden Northwest. 65 

extending as a single line to Minneapolis. Here, is also the southern term- 
inus of the St. Paul and Pacific, and the Lake Superior and Mississippi 
Eailroads ; the western terminus of the West Wisconsin, and the north- 
eastern terminus of the St. Paul and Sioux City Eailroads. St. Paul is 
situated on the hanks of the Mississippi, 2,041 miles from its mouth where 
it empties hito the Gulf of Mexico, to which it enjoys the advantages of 
continuous navigation. The Minnesota empties into the Mississippi five 
miles above the city, and the Falls of St. Anthony are eleven miles above. 
The location of the city is a very eligible one, on the east bank, at the foot 
of a range of bluffs rising at its back from fifty to one hundred feet, and 
crowned with the elegant homes of wealthy citisens. 

St. Paul antedates all the other settlements in the state. Its location 
was mentioned by Father Hennepin, after his visit in 1680. The captivity 
of this pioneer missionary has been already mentioned in the short paper 
on Minnesota. In 1767 Captain Jonathan Carver from Connecticut, who 
had served with distinction in the French wars, started an a speculative 
exploration of the North-West territory, and according to his own account 
made a treaty with the Indians in Carver's Cave, an interesting natural 
cave yet in existence within the city limits of St. Paul, under Dayton's 
Bluff. Carver's account of this treaty, by which he claimed to have re- 
ceived a large tract of land in and about the site of the city, has always 
been regarded cinn grano sails, and we believe his assertion that he was 
elected a chief of the Dakotas, rests upon no better foundation than his 
own word. However, this adventure is entitled to the credit of bringing 
this rich region to the notice of his countrymen, and thus without doubt 
accelerating the day of its final settlement. Whatever else may be said 
of Carver, his prophetic vision of the future greatness of the Golden North- 
West entitles him to rank as one of the most far-seeing " prospectors " of 
his own or any other time. He says of it : " To what power or authority 
this new world will become dependent after it has arisen from its present 
uncultivated state, time alone can discover. But as the seat of empire 
from time immemorial has been gradually progressing toward the west, 
there is no doubt but that at some future period mighty kingdoms will 
emerge from these wildernesses, and stately palaces and solemn temples 
with gilded spires reaching the skies, supplant the Indian huts whose only 
decorations are the barbarous trophies of their vanquished enemies." 

The first actual settlement of the town was made in 1838, by a Canadian 
named Parrant, immediately after the Indian title to the lands east of the 
Mississippi had been extinguished. This pioneer built a cabin where 
Bench street now passes. Where Catholic block now stands, in 1840 
Father Gaultier built an humble log chapel and established the mission 
of St. Paul, and the settlement henceforth took its name from the mission 
—another evidence of the wonderful effect the Catholic missionary enter- 
prises in the North- West have exerted upon the civilisation of the section. 



QQ The Golden Northwest. 

Builclinfy up a considerable river trade, and trade with the Indians, the lit- 
tle village grew slowly until 1849, when the territory of Minnesota was 
organised with St. Paul as its capital. A new life was infused by thi& 
accession to its importance, and before the end of that year several hun- 
dred inhabitants breathed the invigorating air of St. Paul. 

With the exception of Minneapolis, Minnesota's commercial and man- 
ufacturing metropolis, St. Paul is the largest and most important city in 
the state. The population does not fall much short of 30,000, and a very 
wealthy, cultivated and influential community has grown up here within 
the past Generation. A little friendly rivalry has existed between this the 
political centre of the state, and its next door neighbor and rival, but com- 
parisons would be invidious and unnecessary. St. Paul the capital, and 
Minneapolis the metropolis, will ever go hand in hand to secure the 
aggrandisement of their glorious commonwealth in the directions which 
Providence has variously endowed them with abilities and advantages to 
accomplish. 

St. Paul became an incorporated city March 4, 1854, its domain cover- 
ing 2,400 acres. This area was increased, in 1856, to 3,200 acres, its- 
present limits. It is to be regretted that w^e have not space to relate in 
detail the struggles of the plucky, self-confident town, nor to sketch the 
careers of those brave and wise pioneers whose efforts have made St. Paul 
the prosperous capital of our day. But among the latter it would be im- 
proper not to say a word of one whose abilities and enterprise have been 
not among the least of the factors in the development of this important 
point. Captain Russell Blakeley, a pioneer steamboat man of the Upper 
Mississippi, has done as much as any one else to push the commerce of St. 
Paul. He was born in Massachusetts in 1815, and after spending his 
early life in Western New York, Peoria and Galena, Illinois, and Virginia, 
he returned to Galena in 1847, and engaged in that year as clerk on the 
" Arno " a Mississippi steamer, that soon after sunk. He afterwards com- 
manded the " Dr. Franklin " for some time. Through these connections 
and later, as captain of the "Nominee," in 1858, the celebrated packet 
" Galena " in 1854, burned at Eed Wing in 1858, Captain Blakeley became 
widely and popularly known ; perhaps had the largest acquaintance of any 
man in the Northwest of that day, for^;^one time or another he carried 
almost every inhabitant of the region up or down the river, on some one 
of the boats he commanded at various times. Captain Blakeley became 
agent for the Packet Company, at Duluth in 1855, and not long afterward 
bought the interest of C. T. Whitney in the Northwestern Express Co. He 
became a resident of St. Paul in 1856. "Soon after the firm became 
largely interested in mail contracts, stage and transportation lines, etc. 
* * * * The business is now continued by Captain Blakeley 
and C. W. Carpenter, Esq. Captain B. is also largely interested in the 
railroad business, being a director of the Sioux City Railroad, and is, a 



The Golden Northwest. 



67 



member of several other business organisations, contributing largely, both 
in capital and time, to promote the prosperity of the city and state, and 
build up its literary and other institutions."^ 

No description of St. Paul would be complete without some reference 
to "Old Bets," than whom, during her lifetime, there was not a better 
known character in the city. Bets was a squaw of the Sioux nation. Her 
native name was Aza-ya-man-ka-wan or berry picker. She was born near 
Mendota in 1788, and was at the time of her death only 75 years old, 
though she was generally supposed to be 100. She was married after the 
Indian fashion, to Ma-za-sa-gia, or Iron Sword, who died a few years subse- 
quently at Mendota. She had several children, of which one daughter was liv- 
ing not long ago in St. 
Paul. A son named 
Ta-poi, or "Wound- 
ed Man," born at 
Mendota, became 
somewhat noted as 
a convert to Christi- 
anity, and, after his 
death at Faribault 
in 1869, Bishop 
Whipple published 
a fine volume of his 
biography, with an 
engraved portrait. 
A town in southern 
Minnesota has been 
named for him. One 
of her brothers was 
He - in - doo - ka, a 
famous warrior, 
prophet and medi- 
cine man, who was killed by the Chippewas some years ago. ' One 
Legged Jim ' was another brother of Old Bets. He lost a leg in a 
skirmish and used to peg around on a wooden stump. "^ 

" She was a privileged character in many ways, and no old settler (she 
knew them all) would refuse her request for konh iioppn (money.) During 
the Sioux war she was very kind to white prisoners, and possessed other 
good traits. She was a convert to Christianity shortly before her death, 
by Father Ravoux. When her last illness was known the Chamber of 
Commerce subscribed a sum of money for her comfort, and she had a 
christian burial. She died in 1873 at Mendota." * 




OLD BETS. 



1 History of St. Paul. 
*Ibi(l. 



68 



The Golden Northwest. 




The Golden Northwest. 69 

FORT SNELLING. 

In 1820 a detachment of the 5th Reguhirs, commanded by Colonel 
Josiah Snelling, commenced to erect the fort now known as Fort Snelling, 
on the bhiif two miles below Minnehaha. The work was not completed 
until 182-2, and was at first called Fort St. Anthony, but in 1824 Gen. 
Scott visited it, and was so well pleased with the location and construction 
of the fort that he requested the War Office to give the post the name of 
its efficient constructor, and it was accordingly called Fort Snelling. The 
natural situation affirms the good taste of the projector. The fort is built 
upon a high bluff, at the point wdiere the waters of the Miimesota and 
Mississippi unite. The earliest army station of the United States in Min- 
nesota, Fort Snelling, will ever be surrounded by reminiscenses that must 
make it and its beautiful site interesting to both citisen and stranger for 
many a day. Those who have once seen its battled front rise high above 
the verdure at the base of the clilf ; who have looked upon the rugged rock 
just beneath its walls, and above all these the walls themselves, with 
bastion and angle, prim, grim and fitting for the home of Mars, will 
scarcely fail to hope that the rcrctUc may sound for a thousand years 
within these same enclosures, and that the starry banner waving over the 
fort may never fail to float in the breeze, while Anglo Saxon blood remains 
on the continent, to commemorate the strifes and triumphs of early 
settlement in the Northwest. 

MINNEHAHA FALLS. 

" As one sees the Minnehaha, 
Gleaming, glancing thro" the branches; 
As one hears the Laughing Water 
From behind its screen of branches. " 

The lovely Falls of Minnehaha, perhaps as well known to the world as 
any feature of American scenery, through the immortal poem of Hiawatha, 
are located on Minnehaha river, which is the outlet of Minnetonka and 
other lakes in the vicinity. It is a shallow, clear stream ; its bed covered 
with pebbles of crystal and opal, and its surface broken with numerous 
little islands. Rushing merrily around among these in its rapid career, it 
suddenly takes a bound over the falls. For ages the basin. in which the 
water pours as it tumbles over the rock in one solid sheet of silver sheen, 
has been hollowing, until a large, deep cup has been formed, into which 
Nature's glorious beverage is drawn, clear and sparkling, from the eternal 
fountain. 

The volume of water is limited, but, as a writer has prettily said, "it 
appears to more advantage at its lowest than at its highest volinne ; for 
the chief beauty of the falls is in the crossing of the delicate spiral threads 
of water, producing an eft'ect which reminds one of fine lace." A couple 
of hundred feet below there is an old wooden bridge, whose span is only 



70 



The Golden Northwest. 



thirty feet, showing the modest scale upon which the heautiful cascade and 
its immediate surroinidings are constructed. From the bridge a dehghtful 
view of the face is obtained, as it pours unceasingly into the basin sixty 
feet below its crest. 

The narrow gorge from the center of the falls to the bridge is in the 
form of an ellipse with a depth of al)out sixty feet. The summits are cov- 




ered with forest trees of 
from below the bridge to 
fringed with dense foliage. 
the falls a path allows the 
halting place not the least 



THK FALLS OF MINNEHAHA. 



many varieties. The bluffs descend gradually 
the water's edge, the shore continuing heavily 
Behind the thin, trans]-)arent veil of water at 
visitor to pass, affording a cool spray-bedewed 
among the l)eauties of Laughing Water. 



The Golden Northwest. 



71 



MINNEAPOLIS. 

The " North Star City, " as the rich and growing city of MimieapoHs is 
proudly called hy the people of Minnesota, is the county seat of Hennepin 
county, beautifully situated on both banks of the Mississippi, at the Falls 
•of St \nthonv \t this ])oint the two great lines of the Chicago, Milwau- 




kee and St. Taul Kail way meet, the trains ol each arrivuig and departing 
from the same place. In addition to this, the Brainerd branch of the 
Northern Pacific line connects at Sauk Rapids with the St. Paul and Paci- 
fic for Minneapolis, whence trains are run through by this connection to 



72 The Golden Northwest. 

Bismarck, D. T., making this route to the Black Hills considerably shorter 
than any other. Another important commercial outlet is found through 
the St. Vincent branch of the St. Paul and Pacific road, by its new exten 
sion from Fisher's Landing to the state line, where it will connect with the 
Canadian road to Fort Garry. Thus it will l)e seen that the entire North- 
west is reached by the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul road through its 
Minneapolis connections, opening up for that city, a commerce in all direc- 
tions, of which no rival can ever deprive the North Star Metropolis. 

The early history of Minneapolis is replete with the struggles of new 
settlements in the West. It has gone through dark times, often with every 
circumstance pointing to failure as a point of any importance. The first 
white settler, Franklin Steele, Esq., located a claim in 1837, a few weeks 
after the treaty with the Indians had been negotiated. This claim was 
on the east side of the river-, just opposite the Falls of St. Anthony. 
Others followed, and ten years later a small settlement called the Village 
of St. Anthony's Falls had grown up. " At this time all the territory now 
occupied by the city on the west side of the river was included in the Fort 
Snelling reservation, and was not open to settlement. In 1849, Col. John 
H. Stevens secured a permit from the government to, build and occupy a 
house on the west side of the river, which he did, keeping a ferry across 
the river above the falls, near where the suspension bridge is now located. 
In 1851, Dr. A. E. Ames and Joel Bassett crossed over and located on the 
west side, and the year following several others staked out pre-emption 
claims, forming the nucleus for a village. During the next four years 
Minneapolis continued to improve, and the initiatory steps were taken to 
utilize the vast water power on the west side. In the meantime, the vil- 
lage of St. Anthony Falls continued to improve rapidly ; several flouring 
mills were erected, and in 1855 the city of St. Anthony was chartered, and 
Henry T. Welles elected the first Mayor."* 

The financial disasters of 1857 cheeked the progress of the young town, 
which, however, advanced again in 1860, the Water Power Company hav- 
ing so far completed their works that mills were in operation. At this 
time the united population of Miimeapolis and St. iVnthony was 5,821. 
The outbreak of the civil war in '61 again brought the development of the 
place to a standstill, and it was not until 1864 that the marvelous growth 
which has ever since marked the career of Minneapolis, began. It was 
incorporated a city in 1867, and in 1870, with the nominally distinct line 
of St. Anthony, which, however, was always really a part of the comnni- 
nity, there was a population of 18,000. The two were united in 1873, 
taking the name of the larger, "Minneapolis." According to the state 
census of 1875 the city had 32,721 inhabitants, and this number has been 
since increased until at the present time a close estimate gives Minneapolis 
a population in round numbers of 42,000. 

* Report of the Board of Trade. 



The Golden Nokthwest. 73 

The greatest natural source of wealth possessed by Minneapolis is its 
magnificent water power. This resource has been so well described by C. 
C. Sturtevant, Esq., secretary of the Minneapolis Board of Trade, in his 
report for 1877, that we take the liberty of reproducing his remarks on 
that subject entire : 

" The vast water power which has given to Minneapolis her pre-eminence 
as the great manufacturing center of the Northwest, and is destined to 
make it the chief commercial city of the state, is furnished by the Missis- 
sippi river, which has a fall of eighty- two feet within the city limits. The 
volume of water passing over these falls and rapids at the ordinary stage 
has been estimated by competent engineers at 120,000 horse power. Most 
of it can be used with the present improvements with from forty to sixty 
feet head, and the entire flow is available for manufacturing purposes. 
The first practical use made of this power was in 1848, when a dam was 
built from Hennepin Island to the east shore, and four saw mills erected 
on it. It was not until 1857, however, that the present substantial im- 
provements were fairly inaugurated. On the 26tli of February, 1856, the 
St. Anthony Falls Water Power Company was chartered by the territorial 
legislature, and on the 27tli of the same month and year the Minneapolis 
Mill Company was chartered. Both charters are perpetual. The former 
controlling the water from the center of the channel on the west side of 
Hennepin Island to the east shore, the latter from the same point to the 
west shore. 

" Robert Smith, of Alton, Illinois, was the first president of the Minne- 
apolis Mill Company, and in 1857 W. D. Washburn, Esq., was appointed 
secretary and agent. The same year C. H. Bigelow, of Lawrence, Mass., 
a civil and hydraulic engineer, made surveys and submitted plans for im- 
proving the water power of the Mill Company. The construction of the 
dam and opening of the canal commenced in September, 1857, and the 
dam was completed in January, 1858. The first flouring mill (the Cata- 
ract) was built by Eastman & Gibson, the same year. 

" The appliances for controlling and utilizing the water power of this 
company consist of a low or waste dam built on the ledge, commencing in 
the center of the channel of the river and connecting with the dam of the 
St. Anthony Water Power Company, thence running down stream diagon- 
ally towards the westerly shore 400 feet ; thence a high dam again down 
stream, parallel with the shore 500 feet, forming a pond above the mills ; 
thence at right angles 400 feet to the pier at the head of the canal, upon 
which last portion is built the block of saw mills. With this dam a head 
of thirteen feet is maintained, and a sufficient supply of water directed to 
the canal, while the large proportion of the water passes over the low dam 
and is wasted on the falls. 

" The canal is excavated along the shore 350 feet to a point opposite the 
brink of the fall, of a width narrowing from 80 feet to 55, and below this 



74 The Golden Northwest. 

point 500 feet further of a uniform width of 55 feet, and carrying a depth 
of fourteen feet of water. 

" The mills located upon the property improved by the Minneapolis Mill 
Company are as follows : Upon or near the canal, and supplied with water 
therefrom — sixteen flouring mills, 181 runs of stone ; one woolen mill ; one 
cotton mill ; one iron works ; one railroad machine shop ; one planing 
mill, sash, door and blind factory ; one paper mill ; one 300,000 bushel 
grain elevator ; one machine shop ; one mill furnishing shop ; one carding 
mill. Upon the dam of the company — seven saw mills, having nine gangs, 
seven double circulars, and other appropriate machinery ; daily capacity, 
900,000 feet. Upon the river bank above the canal, and discharging water 
through the First street tunnel — one saw mill ; one planing mill ; one ma- 
chine shop ; the city water works. The total amount of power utilized by 
the company is about 4,500 horse power. 

" The present officers of the company are : Gen. C. C. Washburn, 
President ; K. J. Baldwin, Treasurer ; William D. Hale, Secretary and 
Agent; C. C. Washburn, D. Morrison, W. D. Washburn, E. J. Baldwin 
and C. J. Martin, Directors. 

" The improvements of the St. Anthony Falls Water Power Company 
consist of a dam from the east shore to Hennepin Island, 400 feet up the 
shore of Hennepin Island, 650 feet from head of island, west 200 feet, 
thence diagonally to the dam of the Minneapolis Mill Company, 600 feet ; 
total length of dam, 1,850 feet. The company has sold eight saw mill 
sites on the dam in the east channel, which, together with two flouring 
mills, one machine shop and other mills, renting power for manufacturing 
purposes, utilize about 1,300 horse power, under varying heads. The whole 
water fall on the company's lands is 69 feet. In all further developments 
it will be the aim of the company to use the water under a head of from 
forty to sixty feet, voiding the water through a tunnel or tail race now ex- 
cavated in the sand rock under the limestone ledge. 

" The original improvements, made at an early day, amounting to some 
twenty mills of different kinds, were destroyed, mainly by fire, some eight 
years since, and have been replaced by substantial structures. The com- 
pany are now in a condition to utilize to the highest capacity the power 
controlled by them, and it oft'ers to manufacturers a field unsurpassed in 
the Northwest. 

" The present officers of the company are : Eichard Chute, President ; 
Samuel H. Chute, Agent ; Ernest Ortman, Treasurer. 

" In addition to the mills located on the power controlled by these com- 
panies, there is one large paper mill and one double saw mill in operation. 
By the above it will be seen that only a small portion of this vast water 
power is now in use, while the improvements of these companies have ren- 
dered the whole flow of water available. 



The Golden Northwest. 



75 



" The location of this vast water power is such as to add largely to its 
value and availability for manufacturing purposes. It is at the gateway 
through which the products of Minnesota and Dakota must pass to find a 
market. The wheat crop of Minnesota alone, in 1875, amounted to over 
30,000,000 bushels, and the area in cultivation is increasing largely every 
year. The immense pine forests on the upper Mississippi and its numer- 
ous tributaries, must pass through this gate. 

" The falls form a barrier against the rafting of logs and lumber from 
above to the river below ; consequently most of the 2,300,000,000 feet of 
pine, now^ growing to the north, must be manufactured at this place, pre- 
paratory to being shipped to the south and west to supply Iowa, Missouri, 
Kansas, Nebraska and Dakota with the pine lumber of which those states 
are destitute. 




MINNEAPOLIS SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 



" These two branches of manufacturing — flour and lumber — and the 
field for future extension, are named for the reason that they were first in- 
troduced, and have assumed larger proportions than any other. The facil- 
ities for other branches of manufacturing are equally good, and are being- 
developed, as will be seen by the report of manufacturing in the city for 1876. 

" The system of railways now in operation, centering in this city, with 
the Mississippi river navigable to the Gulf, and with slight improvements, 
already commenced by the government, four hundred miles to the north, 
furnish ample facilities for transporting the product of manufactories to 
the markets of the world. 



V 



76 



The Golden Northwest. 



" The motive power, the raw material, and the suhsistence for the oper- 
ative, are all here, side hy side. Let the capital come and utilize the whole, 
where Nature has provided such ample facilities. 

" The permanency of this water power is now estahlished heyond a 
question. There was a time when fears were expressed that the ledge 
which forms the falls might at some future day he swept away by the 
action of the water ; but all apprehensions of such a catastrophe are at an 
end. The government, in providing for the improvement of the navigation 
of the river above, aided by the water power companies and the city, have 
now completed such works as render the falls secure for all future time." 

Among the public works of importance, the suspension bridge, connect- 
ing the east and west divisions of the city, is one of the finest structure of 
the kind in the West. It crosses from Bridge Square fronting the City 
Hall, and was erected in 1876 at a cost of $175,000. It is 675 feet in 
length, and has a roadway with double track for teams twenty feet wide, 
two street car tracks, footways on either side, each six feet wide, supported 
by independent cables Besides the one just described there are two other 
costly and handsome bridges connecting the different parts of the city. 




MINNKAPOLIS CITY HALL, AND POST OFFICE. 



The Golden Northwest. 



/ i 



Throughout the Northwest the puhhc huiklmgs of MiniieapoHs are 
noted for their number, and the expense which North Star enterprise 
has lavished in rendering them adequate to the requirements of their 
missions. The elegant building occupied by the City Hall and post office, 
an excellent idea of which may be gained by reference to the accompany- 
ino- illustration, is a credit to the city. The University of Minnesota, a cut 
of which we present, was located at the Falls of St. Anthony by act of 
the territorial legislature, and the location was confirmed by the state con- 
stitution. Situated on the east side of the river, its site is a commanding 
blutf, which overlooks the whole city, and the Falls of St. Anthony. This 
institution went into actual operation as a preparatory school in 1867, and 
its first college commencement was held in 1873. There is an ample en- 
dowment consisting of lands granted by Congress, of which sales have 
been made amounting to $350,000, and it is expected over $1,000,000 will 
be realised from this source for the whole grant. At the present time 
there is a facility of sixteen professors and tutors, and the number of stu- 
dents enrolled amounts to about 375. The principal buildings are the 
main building, in which the bulk of the scholaristic work is carried on, 
and the Agricultural ^College, (54x146 feet) in which the chemical and 
physical laboratories, the 
plant house and the mu- 
seums of theology and 
agriculture are situated. 
The main building con- 
tains 54 rooms, among 
them a fine assembly 
hall, 90x60 feet, and 24 
feet high. This hall is 
to be beautifully decor- 
ated. The library, the 
largest and best in the 
state, being, in fact, the 
general library of the 
state, and containing 12,- 
000 bound books, is on 
the first floor. A fine 
reading room adjoining 
is open daily free to the 

members of the University and to the general public. The general mu- 
seum, on the third floor, is well worth a visit. Here are to be exhil)ited 
the collections of the geological survey, which is now carried on by the 
scientific corps of the University, under the authority of the Board of 
Regents. The classical museum is also inaugurated in room 36. 

One of the handsomest school buildings in the United States has been 
erected during the past year as the High School of Minneapolis. As will 




Xll' Oi'' iVXlxNiNJiSUTA. 



78 



The Golden Northwest. 



be seen from the illustration the architectural design is of the most ad- 
vanced school of testhetic taste in construction, and the internal arrage- 
ments of the edifice fulfill the promise of the exterior to the letter. 

The extreme dimensions of the building are 112x13(3 feet, and the work- 
ing rooms are all on the first and second fioors, each of which contains two 
school rooms 44x54 feet, each of which in turn is entered directly from both 




boys' and girls' hall, and indirectly through cloak rooms. The boys' and 
girls' hall are 19x22 feet with a vestibule, and easy and spacious staircase, 
recessed in the round towers, and isolated from the main structure by 
heavy fire- walls. 

Adjoining each school room, and also connected with halls, are three 
recitation rooms, each 20x24 feet. 

The girls' entrance is sheltered by a stone piazza, lCx4o feet, upon 
which, also, opens the offices of the superintendent, situated on the first 



The Golden Nokthwest, 



79 



tioor of the main tower, the second story of which contains the labora- 
tories. 

The third floor contains a hall, 52x70, with ample recessed stage, also a 
literary society room, 44x54, and a room for drawing, 22x54 feet. 

The basement con- 
tains. besides th e 
steam heating appara- 
tus, fuel rooms, boys' 
and girls' toilet rooms, 
water closets, etc., a, 
gymnasmm, 43 x 53 
feet and 13 feet high, 
well lighted from the 
Fourth avenue side, 
upon which is the 
street entrance to the 
gymnasium and su- 
perintendent's office. 

The exterior walls 
are of the local gray 
limestone, rock-faced, 
with trimmings of 
cream-colored Kasota 
stone. The roofs are 
slated in black and 
red, the cornices, cop- 
ings, etc., are of iron, 
and the gutters, flash- 
ings, etc., of lead. 
The style of the 
building is the secular 
gothic, so much em- 
ployed in England for 
the past thirty years, 
and by the best desig- 
ner s^[of the /East for 
a somewhat less per- 
iod, and an effort has 
been made to carry in 
to every part of the 

design the principle of honesty and constructional decoration which is 

foremost among the charms of the style. 

A little good carving and wrought metal work has been introduced, and 

in accordance with the best tradition of the style, the ornamental designs 




CHUBCH OF THE BEDEEMEB. 



80 



The Golden Noethwest. 



are in no case duplicated in execution, but vary with each individual capi- 
tal, finial, etc. 

Another educational institution of prominence is the Augsburg Luthern 
Theological Seminary, very intiuential in the denomination it rejDresents. 
The buildings were erected at a cost of $'25,000, and a faculty of four pro- 
fessors and two tutors, with 103 students devote themselves to religious 
study within its walls. Sixty-one churches of various denominations raise 
their spires above the surrounding mills and warehouses of Minneapolis. 
All denominations are represented, and the proportion of churches and 
missions to the aggregate population seems to suggest the North Star City 
as being a God-fearing, at least a liberal church supporting community. 

Beside several smaller hotels, one of the finest houses of entertainment 
in the country is located in Minneapolis. We print a cut of this excellent 
hotel, which will give some idea of its extent and location. It is called the 




•iiii; NU'DLijor nou.sK 



Nicollet House, and is under the management of Messrs. F. S. Gilson & 
Co., a firm very widely known as liberal and eiHcient hotel conductors. 
Accommodations for three hundred guests are barely adequate to meet the 
demand daily made upon the facilities of this favorite stopping place by 
the traveling public. The Nicollet is noted for the comfort of all its ap- 
pointments, the elegance of its furnishing, and the unexceptional character 
of its table. There are four or five inferior hotels, besides a immber of 
boarding houses, where accommodations of various degrees of comfort and 
cost may be obtained by the economically inclined. 

The manufacturing interests of Minneapolis for a long time past of 
great importance, have within a few years received an impetus from the 
rapid extension of the city's railroad connections, and steady growth of 
settlement in the region tributary in every direction. During the year 
1877 over 1,000,000 acres of land were sold to actual settlers, thus creating 



The Golden Northwest. 



81 



a large home market for manufactured goods of all kinds, while the new 
country of Manitoba has been for a considerable period a heavy purchaser 
of machinery, agricultural implements, furniture, and soforth. 

The Upper Missouri Valley, the Black Hills, and all Dakota, are now 
open to competition, and Minneapolis has the advantage in the contest in 
distance, being the nearest manufactviring center to all this Northwestern 
territory ; of railroad communication, having direct connection with 
all that country without reshipment ; and last, though not least, the un- 
equalled facilities furnished for manufacturing purposes by the water power 
and large lumber interests centered here. The business men and manu- 
facturers of the city are awake to the importance of preparing to meet this 
increased demand. Branches of manufacturing already established are 
preparing to increase the product, and new industries, such as the growing 
trade demand, are being introduced. 




WASHBURN MIIiL, "A." 

All over the civilised world Minneapolis is celebrated for the excellence 
of its Hour, in which department of manufacture a large proportion of the 
splendid water power is utilised. Before the terrible fire that devastated 
the milling district on the second day of May last, there were twenty-one 
mills in operation with 197 run of stone. In the conflagration several of 
the largest were destroyed, but will soon be rebuilt and in running order 
again. Prominent among those destroyed the Washburn " A " mill, was 
the largest in the United States and the largest but one in the world. It 
was the property of Messrs. J. A. Christian & Co., in which firm ex-Gov- 
ernor Washburn, of Wisconsin, is a leading member. The calamity that des- 
troyed this magnificent property has passed into history as one of the most 
direful in its effects ever witnessed. Twenty lives and three-quarters of a 
million in property were destroyed. We print an excellent cut of Washburn 
"A" mill as it appeared just before the explosion. The large block of mills 
built in 1859, '60 and '61 is also faithfully represented. 



82 



The Golden Northwest. 



Among the prominent mercantile establishments of Minneapolis, that 

of N. B. Harwoocl & Co. stands at the head. 

Messrs. N. B. Harwood & 
Co. removed to Minneapolis 
from St. Paul in January, 
1876. They occupy the An- 
drew & Hayes' new block 
1)uilt expressly for them. It 
is an imposing five story 
structure 50x150 feet. The 
basement is tilled with do- 
mestics such as cotton duck, 
denims, tickings, brown and 
bleached cottons, &c. On 
the first floor we find the 
offices and their stock of 
dress goods, ginghams, 
prints, cottonades, jeans, 
cassimeres, flannels, &c. On 
the second floor we find the 
Notion Department ; an at- 
tempt to enumerate the ar- 
ticles carried in this depart- 
ment would be simply use- 
less, sufi&ce it to say that it 
is the largest and best as- 
sorted stock in the North- 
west. 

Ascending to the third 
floor we find the soc ailed 
hosierii and white goods- 
department. Here you see 
stocks of table damasks, 
napkins and handkerchiefs 
of their own importation. 
Hosiery, gloves and mittens, 
shawls cloaks, ladies suits, 

etc. This department forms an important branch of the business. 

The fourth and last floor contains their stock of overalls, shirts, pants, 

lumbermen and miners' goods, all of their own manufacture. A portion 

of this floor is devoted to the billing and packing. 

The house is furnished with one of Keedy's hydraulic power elevators. 

Ten traveling salesmen represent the house through Minnesota, portions 
Iowa and Wisconsin, the provinces of Manitoba, Dakota and Montana 




N. B. HAEWOOD A CO S WHOLESALE DRY (iOODS HOUSE. 



The Golden Noethwest. 



83 



territories. Seventy-live men are employed in the dilterent departments. 

Next we must mention the manufacturing department, an all-import- 
ant one of their business. It is located in Brackett's Block, a massive stone 
structure corner Second street and First avenue, south of which it occupies 
the upper tloor 100x100 feet. Here are employed a corps of skilled cutters 
and one hundred and fifty female operatives, besides a like number who 
take their work home and do it in their families and then return it to the 
manufacturing department. 

All the machinery in use in this department is the best and is operated 
by steam power. There is no single room of its magnitude in the West. 
Besides large quantities of shirts, overalls, hunters' and miners' goods, 
they manufacture tents and wagon covers. Hour sacks, burlaps, &c., also 
the heavy 280 pound export flour sacks which have of late met with so 
much favor with millers who export flour. The weekly pay roll of this 
department amounts to nearly one thousand dollars. 

Messrs. N. B. Harwood & Co. are fast becoming the most popular dry 
good and furnishing goods house in the Northwest. The heads of the 
various departments are all men of fine business qualities who study the 
wants of their numerous customers. The stock carried by the house varies 
with the season from half to three quarters of a million of dollars. 

Among the prominent implement manufacturing houses of Minneapolis 
the^ establishment of Messrs. Piussell & Willford, occupies a leading 
position. This h(Hise are the proprietors and manufacturers of the Min- 
neapolis Double Blast Middlings Purifier, a machine which enjoys pre- 
eminent popularity among all the leading millers of the United States and 
Europe. Among the hundreds of mills using these machines may be men- 
tioned the Union Mill Co., Detroit, Mich., Champion Mill Co., same place; 
Keys Brothers, Frontenace, C. A. Pillsbury & Co., W. F. Cahill & Co., G. 
W. Goodrich & Co., George Heinline, Hobert & Shuler, Stamwitz & Sober, 
Minneapolis, and Caspar Kronschnable, Benton, Minn. 

Minneapolis has 

P 



claims to regard as a 
sanitarium and watering 
place, not by any means 
to be ignored nor over- 
shadowed by those of 
places making special 
pretensions in that direc- 
tion. The SL. Anthony 
Falls Chalybeate Springs 
were widely eelel)rated 
for their curative pro- 
perties among the Indian 
tribes centuries before 
the face of the Eunqjean 




84 The Golden Northwest. 

ever looked into the clear spring depths. These highly medicated springs — 
seven in number — are located just below the falls of the east channel, in 
one of the most picturesque spots on the Mississippi river. They are easy 
of access, and the grounds about the springs have been fitted up in an 
attractive style for the reception of visitors. 

For many years these springs have been resorted to by invalids, 
and now that the place has been put in an attractive shape, they 
are destined to be a favorite and popular resort for citisens and 
strangers, and the proprietor spares no efforts to please and entertain vis- 
itors. Croquet grounds, fishing, swings, promenades, reception rooms 
supplied with choice flowers, stereoscopic views and specimens, ice cream 
and refreshment parlors, hot and cold baths, and fine instrumental music 
are among the many attractions to be found here. The baths are a promi- 
nent feature, being superior to any found in the city. Professor Hayes, 
State Assayor and Chemist of Massachusetts, in his report of analysis 
says : "Besides the alterative medicinal qualities possessed by this water 
when taken internally, it will be found beneficial in hot and cold baths, 
and it may be bottled and kept, retaining its virtues for months." There 
is also a cave through which one can take a boat ride about two thousand 
feet under the ground. 

No. 20 State St., Boston. 
Otis M. Humphrey, M. D., Minnecqiolis, Minn. 

Sir: — Several weeks have passed since I received the "St. Anthony 
Mineral spring water " from you, and during this time I have made a com- 
plete and exhaustive chemical analysis of it with results as stated below. 
It has a chemical character, and is strictly an alkaline mineral water, re- 
sembling well known waters found in the northern part of Vermont, and 
in Germany and elsewdiere in Europe. 

One United States gallon, or 231 cubic inches, contains nineteen and 
eighty-four hundredths grains of solid dry mineral matter consisting of : 

Potash 1.257 

Soda 2.900 

Sodium 060 

Lime 5.394 

Magnesia 1.589 

Amonia Trace 

Alumina Trace 

Protoxide of Iron 028 

Sulphuric Acid 117 

Chlorine 104 

Silicic Acid , . . . .645 

Carbonic Acid, combined 8.106 

Crenic Acid, organic 640 

Total 19.840 



The Golden Nokthwest. 85 

These elements are combined in the water, forming the following salts 
and compounds : Carbonate of potash, carbonate of soda, carbonate of 
lime, carbonate of magnesia, sulphate of potash, silicate of soda, chloride 
of sodium, crenate of iron, etc. 

All the carbonate named exist in a state of bicarbonates ; and the 
gasses present are carbonic acid oxygin and nytrogen ; the water contain- 
ing three and three-tenths volumes of mixed gasses in one hundred volumes 
of water. The aeration of this water renders it a pleasant beverage, and 
prevents the sense of heaviness after it has been drank in quantities. Be- 
sides the alterative medicinal qualities possessed by this water when taken 
internally, it will be found beneficial in hot and cold baths, especially in 
certain cases of skin diseases. And it may be bottled and kept, retaining 
its virtues for months without material alteration. 

Kespectfully, S. Dana Hayes, 

State Assayor and Chemist, Mass. 

Messrs. M. Pettingill & Co., proprietors of this attractive and popular 
spa, are energetic and public-spirited citisens, whose successful efforts to 
bring Minneapolis into a leading position as a summer resort are fast 
gaining appreciation at the hands of the people. 

LAKE MINNETONKA. 

This beautiful body of water is one of the largest as it is also one of the 
most attractive lakes in the state. It is distant twenty-four miles from St. 
Paul by the St. Paul and Pacific railroad and deservedly ranks as the lead- 
ing watering place of Minnesota. The total length of the lake is in the neigh- 
borhood of twenty-eight miles, and in width it varies being not more than 
four to five miles at any point. The coast of Minnetonka is at least two 
hundred miles in extent, as its shores are everywhere indented with bays, 
inlets and gulfs. These natural features gives the lake a variety of scen- 
ery, not to be excelled in the whole north-west. The shores are covered 
with the beautiful foliage peculiar to the North Star State, and the forests 
are alternated with golden fields, and noble bluffs, all presenting na- 
ture in every phase delightful to the senses. 

As a summer resort Minnetonka has been steadily growing in favor for 
several years, and at the present time the results of recent enterprise on 
the part of those whose mission it is to cater to the comfort of visitors, are 
seen in the flocks of tourists who regularly take their holiday at the " Big 
Water," as the name of the lake signifies in English. Everything is found 
here calculated to please the careworn city man. The shooting and fish- 
ing are magnificent. Facilities for any kind of life, hotel, camp or cottage 
are amply present. Sailing, boating, "steaming," driving, bowling! 
Everything is provided for to the hearts content. 

Wayzata, a station on the St. Paul and Pacific road is the entrepot to 
this lovely region for all who journey thither by rail, but many, especially 
residents of St. Paul and Minneapolis ride or drive over the charming roads 



86 



The GrOLDEN Northwest. 



leading from those cities to the lake. From the latter town the distance 
to the village of Excelsior on the lake is only eighteen miles by carriage 
road, and this is naturally a popular trip, as the scenery all along is ex- 
tremely picturesque. Wayzata being the only railroad point on the lake 
has considerable local importance. Here the visitor must look for his let- 
ters, baggage and the quartermasters and commissary stores so convenient 
to the summer wayfarer. 

From this point the handsome stern wheel steamer Hattie May, con- 
veys i)assengers to all parts of the lower and upper lake and to the village 
of Excelsior across from Wayzata. The Hattie May is a new vessel con- 
structed especially with reference to the difficult navigation of the shallow^ 




bays'and inlets, and ot the nariowh connecting the two principal divisions 
of^tlie lake. While numerous charming localities are to be found in every 
direction, generally well supplied as to hotel and boarding house accomo- 
dations, the larger and more fashionable portion of the regular habitues of 
this resort, make their headquarters at the Chapman House located at 
Mound City, on the upper lake, and just far enough from the station to 
give the traveler the advantage of a delightful sail going and coming. An- 
other favorite resort on the upper lake is the Upper Lake House, equally 
accessible with the Chapman and a well kept and comfortable hotel. The 
splendid pike, pickerel and bass fishing in the lake added to the attractions 
its surface and scenery offer to those who love to sport with oar or sail, has 



The Golden Nokthwest. 87 

encouraged the building up of a fine and numerous fleet consisting of 
yachts and skiffs in great variety adapted to pleasure or fishing. The pro- 
prietors of the fleet, Gates, Eichardson & Morse, at Excelsior, also keep 
halt, tackle and everything else adapted to the wants of tourist or sports- 
man. Another fine fleet is kept by John Keesling at Wayzata, where sail- 
ing and fishing parties are fitted out with everything requisite. Altogether, 
neither in the Golden North-West nor in any other part of the country can 
be discovered a locality more beautiful or perhaps quite as accessible as 
Lake Minnetonka. People from every corner of the United States and 
Europe have seen and enjoyed and praised its attractions. Its shore and 
bays are sites for the summer palaces of the gentry of the West and South 
already to a considerable extent, and will continue to become more so year 
after year, as the wealth and prosperity of our new empire in the Golden 
North- West steadily increase, 

WHITE BEAK LAKE. 

Near White Bear, a station on the St. Paul and Duluth R. E., and 
twelve miles from St. Paul, is situated one of the most popular and de- 
lightful summer resorts in the country. White Bear Lake is especially 
favored, with reference to its local advantages, in being about equally dis- 
tant from the three largest cities in the state, Minneapolis, St. Paul and 
Stillwater, from all of which places it deserves a large patronage alone suf- 
ficient to support its pretensions to being considered a leading watering 
place. White Bear Lake is a charming little sheet of water about four 
miles in length by three wide. A picturesque island rises from the bosom 
of the lake near its centre. The bright pebbly beach is loaded with opal- 
escent gems of agate and carnelian, while the crystal waters, clear and 
cold, are the home of game, fish in great numbers. Lake Shore, a new 
station, has been recently established by the St. Paul and Duluth company 
for the convenience of visitors to Bear Lake, and from this station car- 
riages carry passengers to the Leip House and other places of entertain- 
ment in the vicinity. The principal as well as the oldest and largest hotel 
at this resort is the Leip House kept by Mr. William Leip who has suc- 
cessfully conducted the enterprise for at least a dozen years. Since last 
year large additions have been made to the buildings and grounds and at 
the present time the accomodations are ample for several hundred guests. 
The picnic grounds attached to the house are extensive, beautifully laid 
out and improved and largely patronized. A line fleet of yachts and row 
boats, billiard and bar-rooms are included. Not far from the Leip, the 
South Shore House occupies a charming situation on the lake. It has a 
handsome pavillion for dancing, delightful grounds shaded by lovely 
forest trees, and a number of sail and row boats. On the west shore of 
the lake there is also the Williams House, an excellent hotel well patron- 



88 



The Golden Northwest. 



ised by transient and regular custom during the season. It is nearer the 
depot than the others, and has besides an excellent bar, line grounds, 
boats, etc. 

In an historical description of the locality. Colonel J. Fletcher Williams 
of the State Historical Society writes : 

" This neighborhood was, from time immemorial, a grand battle ground 
between the Chippewas and Dakotas. There is hardly a foot of soil around 
White Bear Lake that has not been ensanguined by the blood of these he- 
reditary foes. Spirit Island seems to have been the most hotly contested 
ground, and to this day the remains of rifle pits, redoubts and earth works 
are there to be found, while its soil was enriched by the innumerable war- 
riors who were slain. It is a perfect Golgotha — an island cemetery. These 
fierce combats continued as late as 1855, when a party of Sioux from 
Kaposia passed the lake on a hunting expedition. Near Oneka Lake, a few 
miles above, they encountered the Chippewas, one of whom they killed and 




LKIP HOUSE. 



scalped, losing, however, two of their own braves by mortal wounds. They 
brought their wounded comrades with them, on litters, and encamped on 
the banks of Goose Lake, just above where St. John's Church was after- 
ward erected and held a scalp dance. They spent two days and nights in 
their infernal orgies, frightening women and children by shaking the reek- 
ing scalp of their dead enemy above their heads. 

During the early days of the white settlement the Indians were very 
troublesome. The Sioux claimed the right to hunt and fish and gather 
cranberries and rice, which were very abundant. Game was so plentiful 
that both Chippewa and Sioux dreaded the idea of abandoning it. The 



The Golden Northwest. 89 

lake teemed with fish, aquatic fowl, muskrat and mink. The forest 
abounded with bear, deer and other game, while wild rice and berries were 
plentiful in the lakes and marshes. It was to them ]J\i-se-c}ia — the land 
of plenty. Some idea of the abundance of game may be gained by a single 
instance. In the winter of 1853-4, Little Crow, Red Iron and several other 
chiefs, who then had a village at Kaposia, camped at the lake with a few 
lodges. During the winter, by actual count, they killed 1,265 deer. What 
wonder that game should grow scarce ! What wonder the red men should 
dislike leaving their Wa-se-cha." 

Among the beauties of White Bear Lake, Spirit Island stands pre-em- 
inent. It is a favorite resort for camping parties, and realises thoroughly 
the ideal of retirement from all the bustles and cares of civilised life. An 
interesting Indian legend tells how it was regarded with reverence by 
the Dakotas in the elder day. Railway and hotel facilities combined with 
natural attractions unsurpassed at any resort in the world, render it certain 
that White Bear Lake will always advance in popularity and prosperity as 
one of the most delightful fashionable watering places in the Golden 
North-West. 

DULUTH. 

One of the most interesting incidents in the history of northwestern 
development is found in the startling growth of this city at the head of Lake 
Superior. Less than ten years ago a few scattered huts were all the evi- 
dences of settlement on the site of the important and growing commercial 
port and city of Duluth. Where now broad streets lined with warehouses, 
churches, schools and handsome residences, spread out in every direction, 
only a few years ago the gentle bovine ruminated in the shade of lordly 
forest trees, and the song of the fisherman or the hum of bees w^as all that 
broke the stillness of the region. Superior City, a small settlement across 
the bay of Superior, three-quarters of a mile wide, in former years supplied 
the few people at Duluth with the necessaries of life. This the earliest 
commerce of the place was conducted by means of bark canoes during open 
navigation and dog sledges in the winter, Superior City had ambitious as- 
pirations,- and experienced a sudden growth at the time the Northern Pa- 
cific road became a fixed fact, but after two or three years of prosperity and 
progress ceased, Duluth meantime springing into existence a full fledged 
city. 

Like almost every important town in the West, Duluth owes its good 
fortune to railways. Being the terminus of the St. Paul and Duluth, and 
of the Northern Pacific lines, its facilities for inland commerce extend in 
every direction, while added to this it commands the commerce of the 
great lakes, holding the head of navigation. This latter consideration 
must alone make Duluth the " Chicago of Minnesota," as its friends al- 
ready delight to call it, for when the northwest is thickly populated as it 
will be within a short time, this city will necessarily become the commer- 



90 The Golden Northwest. 

cial metropolis of a vast region. But the advantages of the situation are 
not alone sordid or material for the site of Duluth is one of the most beau- 
tiful in the Golden North- West. Lake Superior, "Gitchie Gumee" of the 
Dakotas, is celebrated the world over for the grandeur of its scenery, and 
in no part of it to a greater extent than in this vicinity. 

Government has lent a helping hand to this lusty child of the lakes and 
woods by constructing a magnificent breakwater to protect the outer har- 
bor. The result of this judicious outlay gives Duluth a dockage of over 
twenty miles ; sufficient to accomodate the great fleets that from the 
ports of our own country and over- sea will one day anchor at the gates of 
the North Star Empire. At the present time the city has about twelve 
miles of well graded streets, over a thousand business houses, with an 
annual trade of nearly six million dollars, a number of workshops and fac- 
tories and adequate wharves and other facilities for the marine interest. 
Several prosperous churches, neat, ample and fully appointed schools and 
fine public buildings ; all these give to Duluth the air of a full grown, al- 
most middle-aged town ; truly surprising when one reflects that only the 
other day, as it seems, civilisation had not yet disturbed the wildness of 
nature, where the metropolis of the future alreadj^ defends its claim to con- 
sideration as one of the cities of the North-west. The w^onderful progress 
and development of this point is due confessedly to the enterprise and en- 
ergy of the St. Paul and Duluth management more than to any other one 
influence. Through that road and its connections, especially one of them, 
the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul road. Duluth has been favored with 
trade advantages, the outcome of which may be noted in her present im- 
portant business interests. 

BKAINEKD. 

Brainerd occupying an attractive site on the banks of the Mississippi 
river is the seat of the general offices of Northern Pacific railroad, of which 
line it is an important station. The town is largely visited by sportmen 
who come to enjoy the fishing and shooting of the vicinity. The lakes in 
the immediate neighborhood are stocked with the finest black and rock 
bass, pike and pickerel in the county ; and the country abounds with deer, 
partridge, ducks and geese. The town has one thousand inhabitants and 
boast of an excellent hotel. It is the junction of the Western railroad now 
running in connection with the St. Paul and Pacific direct to St. Paul thir- 
teen miles distant. A stage line and mail route also connects it with Leech 
Lake Indian Agency to the north. 

DETKOIT. 

This town is the county seat of Beecher county and is located near the 
shore of Detroit Lake, on the line of Northern Pacific railroad. It is just 
on the border of the beautiful park region ; has a population of twelve hun- 
dred, mostly imigrants from New England. Detroit Lake is one of the finest 



The Golden Northwest. 91 

sheets of water on the road and has become quite a popular resort, the scen- 
ery, hunting and fishing of the neighborhood beingunsurpassed anywhere. 
Beside its railway communications Detroit is connected by stage with the 
White Earth Indian Eeservation in the north, and southward through the 
Pelican Valley to Fergus Falls and Campbell, on the St. Paul and Pacific 
railroad. 

FARIBAULT. 

In the early part of the presentcentury Alexander Faril)ault established 
a trading post on the site of the present wealthy and flourishing city that 
bears his name. The town wasnotlaid out until 1855, since which time its 
growth has been steady, Faribault is situated on the Iowa and Minnesota 
line of the Chicago, Milwakee and St. Paul R. R., and distant from St. Paul 
fifty-three miles. Two small rivers between which it is located, furnish an 
ample water-power utilised by a number of manufacturing establishments. 
The industrial interests of the city have been pushed to a considerable ex- 
tent, and its manufactures are steadily increasing. The county town of 
Rice county. Faribault has the further distinction of being the cathedral 
city of the Episcopal diocese of Minnesota, and the seat of several influen- 
tial Anglican schools and college. The " Shattuck Grammar School and 
Seabury Mission," and St. Mary's Hall, the latter one of the most popular 
colleges for young ladies in the country, are located here. A new cathedral 
and Episcopal residence are now nearly completed, and will cost over 
$100,000. The Right Reverend H. B. Whipple, Bishop of Minnesota, un- 
der whose care and enterprise the colleges and schools of Faribault have 
grown up to their present prosperity, has, of course, his residence here and 
is greatly respected, not only on account of his distinguished position as a 
prelate, but for the work he has done in adding to the importance of his 
see city. 

The Central High School a widely known educational institution occu- 
pies a handsome building which cost $30,000. On the bluffs east of the 
city the State Asylum for the deaf, dumb and blind occupies a prominent 
site. The buildings are comfortable, adequate and well appointed and 
erected at a cost of $53,000. 

AUSTIN. 

Austin, which has grown so largely in importance during the past few 
years as to take rank among the leading interior town of Minnesota, is 
situated on the Cedar river, one hundred and one miles from St. Paul by the 
Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul railroad. It is the county seat of Mower 
county, has a population of 3,000 and controls a large trade drawn from 
the rich and fertile agricultural region around it, including several counties 
both in Minnesota and Iowa. The Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul rail- 
road have a branch line which extends from Austin southwest to Mason 
City, completing the St. Paul connection over this road of the Burlington, 
Cedar Rapids and Minnesota and the Central Iowa railroads. 



92 



The Golden Noethwest. 



NORTHFIELD. 

The terrible tragedy enacted at Northfield a couple of years ago has en- 
vironed that town with a romantic interest that it would never otherwise 
have attained. The raid of the James and Younger brothers, the capture 
of the Bank of Northfield, the heroic defense and death of Heywood the 
cashier, and the subsequent excitement and campaign against the fleeing 
bandits — all this is still fresh in the minds of the public. Northfield is a 
little city of 2,000 inhabitants, thirty-nine miles from St. Paul on the Chi- 
cago, Milwaukee and St. Paul railroad, and on the east bank of Cannon 
river. Carleton College, one of the most popular seats of learning in the 
state is located here, and the city is otherwise of local importance as the 
supplying point for a large section of thriving country. A curious natural 
feature rises from the prairie six miles north and one mile east of the 
railroad called Castle Rock, a town of white sandstone forty feet high. 




AUGSBURG THEOLOGICAL SEMINABT. 



CHAPTER IV 



IOWA — M GKEGOR — CALMAR — DECORAH — CRESCO — LIME SPRINGS — MASON CITY — 
CLEAR LAKE — ALGONA — SKETCH OF DAKOTA, MONTANA, AND MAN- 
ITOBA — MOORHEAD, FARGO, BISMARCK, BLACK HILLS, DEAD- 
WOOD, THE YELLOWSTONE AND BIG HORN COUNTRY. 

^T^O Julien Dubuque is credited the honor of estabhshing the first known 
J- white settlement within the Hmits of the State of Iowa. The date of his 
occupancy is fixed at 1788, when, with a small company of miners, he 
commenced operations upon the mines, on the site of the city which still 
bears his name, and where he resided until his death, in 1810. Prior to 
this peaceful invasion, the then territory had known nothing of the hu- 
man race, beyond that represented by the Indians that had been driven 
from the east by the encroachments of civilisation, and nomadic bands of 
white explorers, scarcely less savage than the red skins. Following close 
upon the footsteps of Dubuque came others, who found in the fertile soil 
and rare natural advantages of the territory, greater promise of return for 
their labors than in the comparatively old country east of the Big Eiver. 
The west bank began to show signs of life and rapid improvement, and as the 
pioneers succeeded, they were joined by others, until the necessity for gov- 
ernment became manifest. 

A little insight into the domestic relations of the early settlers of Iowa 
is afiorded in the fact that from 1788 to 1831, not a white child was born 
within its limits. In the latter year, Margaret Stillwell, who afterwards 
became Mrs. Ford, was born, on the present site of Keokuk. Prior to her 
birth, the half breed had been the staple product, but gradually the minds 
of the settlers were emancipated from their Indian fancies, and the white 
baby rapidly grew in popularity. 

Iowa became a separate territory in 1838, and her fame spreading far 
and wide drew to her prairies an immense number of fortune seekers, and 
within ten years her population numbered 150,000. In 1845, she was ad- 
mitted as a state, and now ranks among the wealthiest of the new admissions. 

McGregor. 

This city has a population of 2,500, and is the southeastern terminus 
of the Iowa and Minnesota line of the C, M. & St. P. The beauty of the 



94 The Golden Northwest. 

town and its surroundings have for years attracted summer tourists, and 
since the erection of the Flanders House, a large and excellently kejjt 
hotel, the place has become more than ever a fashionable resort. It is 
pleasantly situated on the west bank, opposite Prairie du Chien, with which 
it is connected by a ferry. At the latter city there is also a commodious 
hotel, the "Eailway House,'' one of the most popular hostelries on the 
river. McGregor is 212 miles from St. Paul, a flourishing city, dehghtfully 
located and a charming spot for recreation and leisure. 

CALMAR. 

Forty-three miles from McGregor, and on a branch of the C, M. & St. 
P., is the smaller, but lively and enterprising town of Calmar. It has an 
industrious population of 2,500, and by virtue of the railway line running 
through it, is accessible as a market for the farmers in the fertile country 
lying round about. Its advantages are beyond its population, and the city 
offers every inducement to those who are looking for comfortable and 
profitable homes. 

DECORAH. . 

Decorah, county seat of Winnischiek county, is a handsome inland city 
of 2,500 inhabitants, 157 miles from St. Paul, on a branch of the Chicago, 
Milwaukee and St. Paul liailway, and on the upper branch of the Iowa 
river. Decorah is noted for its importance as a supplying point for a 
populous and wealthy agricultural district surrounding it and locally, for its 
manufacturing enterprises, and for the scenery, fishing and hunting of the 
neighborhood. The surface of the country in this locality is a rolling 
prairie, varied by high bluffs along the streams. The soil is a heavy black 
loam, and very rich for producing purposes. Timber is plenty, and being 
rapidly increased in quantity by cultivation. Among the business enter- 
prises of the country there are twenty-two flouring mills, six of which ship 
their product to the East. An extensive wagon and plow factory, a large 
woolen mill, and a carriage factory, are also located here. A heavy dairy 
interest has grown up in the county, and in 1874 butter was made to the 
extent of 736,618 pounds. The wool clips for the same year amounted to 
38,965 pounds ; the sheep population then aggregating 10,627. In the 
northern part of the county there are several excellent trout streams, and 
the prairie chicken, partridge and quail shooting is good in season. 

One of the most singular of natural phenomena to be met with anv- 
where is found here. This is " Ice Cave," under a bluff' on the north bank 
of the upper Iowa river, noted because, while in winter no ice is to l)e 
found in it, it forms in Spring and Summer, and thaws out again upon the 
advent of cold weather. Another singular natural feature is an un- 
derground stream nine miles east of Decorah, on Trout river, navigable for 
canoes, and which has been explored for a long distance. A large spring 
issuing from a picturesque bluff" was used for some time to run a woolen 
mill, which has since l)urned down : this spring feeds a considerable creek 



The Golden Northwest. 95 

flowing through a beautiful little valley, and empties into the upper Iowa 
one and one-half miles from the town. At the point of junction with the 
river, it furnishes power for two flour mills. 

Decorah is the site of a dismantled fort, Fort Atkinson, established 
here by the government in 1841, for the purpose of controlling the Winna- 
bago Indians. The savages were removed, 1847-8, after which the fort was 
abandoned, but part of the buildings still remain and are occupied by cit- 
isens. Decorah takes its name from the noted Indian chief who captured 
Black Hawk, at the Dells of the Wisconsin. The county also takes its 
name from that of another chief of the Winnebagoes. 

CRESCO. 

The pushing little city of Cresco is a station on the Chicago, Milwaukee 
and St. Paul Railroad, three hundred and twenty-five miles from Chicago, 
and one hundred and fifty-four from St. Paul. It is the centre of a rich 
farming region, and has moreover developed a manufacturing interest of 
some importance. A large foundry, where the "Swinson mower" is 
made, and the Cresco Plow Works, are in successful operation. 

LIME SPRINGS. 

Lime Springs Station, Howard county, is a station on the Chicago, 
Milwaukee and St. Paul Railway, three hundred and fifty- two miles from 
Chicago, two hundred and sixty-seven from Milwaukee, and one hundred 
and thirty-nine from St. Paul. It has a population of one thousand, and 
is a thriving inland town. The surface of the neighborhood is mostly 
prairie, the soil rich black loam, with clay subsoil. Timber is scarce, 
but a little oak, elm and walnut is found along the Turkey and Upper 
Iowa rivers. Wheat raising is the principal industry of the county, but 
the farmers have latterly gone a good deal into stock raising, which prom- 
ises to become a leading interest, as the locality is exceptionally favorable 
to it. Lime Springs Station shipped over half a million bushels of wheat 
in 1877. An extensive factory for the production of wagons, carriages, 
sleighs and agricultural implements is located here. In addition to other 
means of communication. Lime Springs Station is connected by a stage 
line to Spring Valley, Minnesota, a station on the Southern Minnesota 
Railroad. 

MASON CITY. 

Running through from McGregor to Algona is a branch line of the C, 
M. & St. P., and 117 miles west of McGregor is Mason City, the southern 
terminus of the St. Paul and Mason City line. It is also the northern 
terminus of the Central Iowa Railroad, which, connecting at Ottumwa 
with the St. Louis, Kansas City and Northern Railway, forms a contin- 
uous all rail route from St. Louis to St. Paul. With such railroad ad- 
vantages, it is little wonder that Mason City is regarded as one of the most 



96 The Golden Northwest. 

flourishing towns of Northern Iowa. It has a population of 2,000 inhabit- 
ants, is county seat of Cerro Gordo county, and celebrated for its pleasant 
and healthful situation. 

CLEAR LAKE. 

This town is located at the eastern end of a small lake of the same 
name, on the Iowa and Dakota line of the Chicago, Milw^aukee and St. 
Paul Railway, about 170 miles from St. Paul. Clear Lake has lately be- 
gun to be patronised as a summer resort, but lacks as yet the necessary 
hotel facilities. The hunting and fishing in the neighborhood is excellent, 
the scenery pleasant, though ordinary, and the town bids fair to one day 
become a popular local watering place. 

ALGONA. 

Algona, the county seat of Kossuth county, is situated on the east side 
of the east fork of the Des Moines river, 213 miles from St. Paul. It is 
the present terminus of the Iowa and Dakota line of the Chicago, Mil- 
waukee and St. Paul Railway. The country about Algona is fertile and 
largely populated. It produces the leading cereals in vast quantities, and 
supports a considerable general trade in the shire town. The latter has a 
number of business houses, one of the finest court houses in the state, 
and is the seat of Algona College, a Methodist institution of some local 
importance. Several religious societies, and good schools, are well sup- 
ported. Up to the time the railroad reached Algona the village did not 
amount to much, and its present importance is entirely due to its being a 
terminus of the C, M. & St. P. R. R. This year that railway will be com- 
pleted to Spencer, 85 miles further west. What effect the extension of the 
line may have upon the fortunes of Algona, remains to be seen. 

DAKOTA, MONTANA AND MANITOBA. 

Lying to the westward of Minnesota and Iowa the great region com- 
prising the territories of Dakota and Montana, stretches far into the heart 
of the continent, where the mountains of gold and silver and precious 
stones decorate the bosom of America, our fruitful, rich and indulgent 
mother. Again far away to the North-West of our own most north-west- 
erly possession, the British Province of Manitoba reaches its arms to the 
still deserted wilds of the Arctic circle. All of these sections are to be in- 
cluded in the glorious empire of the future, "The Golden North- West." 
Dakota and Montana with the untold wealth of their Black Hills, Big Horn 
and Yellowstone regions, their sublime and often frightful scenery, their 
mountains, rivers and geysers ; added to vast and fertile prairies, valleys 
and hillsides, stock ranges illimitable in extent, and water power compe- 
tent to turn the mills of Christendom ; these territories are destined to 
play an important role in the grand drama of our future social and po- 
litical development. Manitoba, the granary of the far north, with its fast 
populating country, rich to excess in every natural resource ; it too is 



The Golden Northwest. 97 

certain to exert a commanding intluence in the coming colossal empire of 
the Golden North -West. 

The early settlement of these grand divisions of our new imperial re- 
gion, except in the case of Manitoba, would have but little in connection 
with the immediate object of this volume. Population moved slowly into 
Dakota and scarcely at all into Montana until the discovery of gold in the 
Black Hills, in the Yellowstone, and Big Horn countries, gave an impetus to 
immigration, which will now never be lost until the face of the land is 
dotted with populous cities, town and villages and the surface gridironed 
by railways. It is at the point of time when the first adventurer should- 
ered his rifle and pan to wrest the hidden treasure from Nature's lap that 
our interest in Dakota and Montana commences. As to the great Province 
there is much to be written did space p'ermit. The Kiel revolution of the 
last decade brought the young kingdom into jjublic notice, and the expedi- 
tion sent to quell it under the now famous Sir Garnet Wolseley, assisted 
still further to make its wonderful potentialities know to the world. For 
the past few years inhabitants have made their appearance in armies and 
at the present the country is giving evidence of its progress in a commerce 
of considerable extent, which will be indefinitely increased as soon as the 
imminent railway communications with Minnesota and the East via the 
Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul railroad and its connections are opened. 

In these portions of the region just mentioned included within the 
boundaries of the United States, cheap homes and farms are offered to 
actual settlers under various laws. The pre-emption law gives to any 
citisen of the United States, and to those who have declared their inten- 
tion to become such, 160 acres of land within the limits of a land grant to 
any railroad company, at $2.50 per acre, or outside of railroad limits at 
$1.25 per acre, on condition of permanent improvement and continued 
residence for one year. The homestead law grants to the settler 160 acres 
outside of railroad limits, and eighty acres within the limits on condition 
of permanent improvement and continued residence for five years, with- 
out coat, except land office fees, which do not exceed $18 for 160 acres. 
An exception to the demands of the homestead law is made in favor of 
honorably discharged soldiers and marines, they being allowed to take 
160 acres within railroad limits, and the time they were in the service 
of the United States, not to exceed four years is deducted from the five 
years' residence required by the law. 

Under the provisions of the timber culture act, any citisen of the United 
States, or those who have declared their intention to become such, can 
make an entry of not to exceed 160 acres, either within or without the 
limits of a railroad grant, on condition that one-fourth of the land so taken 
shall be planted with trees, cultivated and protected for eight years, when 
final proof can be made and patent secured. The registers of the difierent 
United States land offices will, upon application, by letter or in person, fur- 



98 The Golden Northwest. 

nish the full text of these laws, and information as to locality of vacant 
government lands that can l)e had in their respective districts. Under the 
operation of these laws, any settler can secure from 240 to 3*20 acres of 
land at a most trifling cost. 

The very liberal law of the government, protecting forest tree culture 
on the western prairies, is supplemented by a law of Dakota, which pro- 
vides that for every five acres of timber in cultivation, forty acres, with all 
the improvements thereon, not exceeding one thousand dollars in value, 
shall be exempt from taxation for a period of ten years from the time of 
planting. Another law of the territory provides that no land shall be 
deemed increased in value for assessment purposes by reason of such tim- 
ber culture, no matter how much its real value may be enhanced thereby ; 
so that any industrious man, no matter how poor, can come here, and in 
eight years be the owner of 240 or 320 acres of land, with an abundant 
supply of timber just where he wants it, and be entirely exempt from tax- 
ation the entire time, unless he should put more than $4,000 worth of im- 
provements upon his land during that time, 

MOORHEAD. 

Moorhead, a busy, thriving town on the Red river, and a station on the 
Northern Pacific railroad, has a population of about 1,000, and controls 
the trade of a large section of country. It has several fine churches, schools, 
a number of business houses, hotels, and so forth. A large grist mill is 
located here, with a capacity of 600 bushels daily. The geographical posi- 
tion of Moorhead and its railway connections give to the town an assurance 
of continued and enhanced prosperity, in common with its sister points on 
the great highway to the gold fields. 

FARGO. 

This fine city is one of the most notable evidences of sudden, and at the 
same time substantial growth and prosperity in the North-West. It owes 
its being to the opening up of the region by the Northern Pacific railway as 
do the other now prosperous towns along the line. Fargo is the county 
seat of Cass county, Dakota, situated on the west bank of the Red river 
and is a prominent station of the Northern Pacific railroad. The shops 
and engine houses of the Dakota division of the road are located here. 
There are also one of the largest and finest hotels in the North-West, a 
handsome brick court house, a number of stores, lumber yards and grain 
warehouses. The trade of the city is already large and increasing steadily 
and rapidly. 

Stages connect Fargo and Moorhead with Caledonia, Grand Forks, 
Pembina and Fort Garry, northward ; with Devil's Lake northwest ; with 
Norman and Owego southwest, and with Fort Abercrombie, Breckinridge 
and Fort Wadsworth south. Both towns are also, during the season of 
navigation, important shipping points for the great trade carried on by way 



The Golden Northwest. 99 

of the Bed river with the British Northwest, at Winnepeg and Fort Garry, 

BISMABCK. 

Bismarck, the present terminus of the Northern Pacific raih'oad, is 
beautifully located on high grounds on the east bank of the Missouri river, 
has a population of about 1,500, with the usual number of stores, hotels, 
churches, etc., and a heavy trade with the numerous military posts and 
Indian agencies on the river. From this jjoint the Missouri river is navi- 
gable for 1,200 miles to the northwest, and during the season a regular line 
of boats is run to the upper Missouri river, connecting at Fort Benton and 
Carroll with stage lines to Helena and other jjoints in Montana. Also, it 
is the connecting point with the Northwestern Express, Stage and Trans- 
portation Company's daily line of coaches to Deadwood and other points 
in the Black Hills. 

THE BLACK HILLS. 

The Black Hills, the Eldorado of the period, are too well known in a 
general sense to require introduction. They have been the dream of the 
adventurer for several years, and in the short time that has elapsed since 
our first authentic account of them, in 1874, have already grown to rank 
as among the most promising mining districts of the world. During the 
last year alone the gold yield was over $3,000,000. In his excellent guide 
to the Hills, Judge Maguire thus speaks of their geography and topography : 
" The Black Hills are an isolated mass of elevations, about one hundred and 
twenty miles in extent, from northwest to southwest, with an average 
width of fifty miles, their area being not less than 6,000 square miles. 
They are so called from the sombre aspect they present from a distant 
view, caused by the vast evergreen forests of pine with which they are 
generally clothed. Many are still ignorant of their geographical position, 
often confounding them with the two mountain districts of the same desig- 
nation south of the Platte river, in Southeastern Wyoming. According to 
the latitudinal lines, they are about sixty miles north and a little over 
eight hundred miles west of Chicago, and are situated between two forks 
of the Cheyenne river, which surround them so completely that both these 
streams have their origin in the same locality, and their head waters inter- 
lock. The north current is usually called the Belle Fourche, or Beautiful 
Fork." The Hills are reached by the splendid fast mail stage line of the 
Northwestern Stage and Transportation Line, from Bismarck, connecting- 
eastward with the Northern Pacific and Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul 
railways. The Hills "embrace all that is grand and beautiful in nature — 
cloud-piercing peaks, snow^-crowned nine months out of the twelve ; deep- 
down canyons, gloomy and savage, with dense forests and craggy walls of 
slate, granite or limestone ; fairy fountains and crystal streams, and richly 
flowered plateaus and glades — flowers gorgeous in coloring and sweetly 
fragrant. The highest peaks are from 5,600 to 8,000 feet high, not so great 



100 The Golden Northwest. 

altitudes as are found among the j)erpetually snow-capped mountains of 
the Big Horn, further west, but they appear as lofty when measured by 
the eye in comparison with the surrounding elevations. Such is a ' birds- 
eye ' view of the Black Hills. The greater portion of them are in the 
southwestern corner of Dakota, which embraces nearly all the discovered 
mines ; the other portion is in Northwestern Wyoming, and Southeastern 
Montana is in close proximity. As the new gold discoveries extend to the 
three territories, a new territorial organisation, which will embrace them 
all under one system of laws, seems so obvious a judicial necessity that I 
have no doubt it will soon be consumated."* 

After the Custer expedition of 1874 had settled the fact that gold in 
paying quantities was to be found in the Hills, adventurers poured in 
towards the stockades on French creek, the present site of Custer City. In 
1875 military orders were given to escort the settlers out of the region, and 
the pioneers were collected at the stockades for that purpose. Before 
leaving, however, they organised a town government, named the settlement 
Custer City, and dedicated a log building as the city hall. A few evaded 
the vigilance of the military and appeared again upon the scene almost as 
soon as the army disappeared over the hills. Settlers soon began to arrive 
again in numbers, and further interference on the part of the government 
was abandoned. In spite of the Indians, miners' claims soon covered the 
locality, extending over the rich placer diggings of Spring and Eapids creeks 
to the north. Deadwood and Whitewood gulches, seventy miles north of 
Custer City, were reached during the winter of 1875-76, and were claimed 
throughout their extent. It is said that one claim in Deadwood gulch was 
offered in February, 1876, for a little flour and bacon, which has since 
yielded $300,000. The number of people in the Hills in July, 1876, was 
estimated at 6,500 — about half of whom were in Deadwood City. Since 
that time immigration has brought the population of Deadwood alone up 
to 10,000, while there are at least 50,000 in that place and the surrounding 
region. 

It w^as generally supposed that the Black Hills had been unknown to 
white miners up to 1871, but in view of discoveries made since the recent 
opening up of this country, that view is shown to have been incorrect. We 
quote again from Judge Maguire's interesting account : "Gold was discovered 
there l)y white men, years before the lamented Custer entered the country at 
the head of an army, and it would undoubtedly have been settled and devel- 
oped immediately after, had not these unknown first discoverers all been mas- 
sacred by Indians, wherefore reports of their discoveries were never published. 
Near Rapid Creek and on W^hitewood and Deadwood Creeks, old "prospect 
holes" have been found. There is an old shaft on a goldbearing quartz 
vein which crosses Deadwood Gulch ; and the trees near by bear the marks 
of bullets and arrows, the appearance of which proves that they were made 
years ago. In making "clean-ups" last summer, in one of the Deadwood 

* Maguire. 



The Golden Noethwest. 101 

claims, old, rusty nails were found ; and on another there was an old pile 
of tailings. Of the conclusion arrived at from these evidences, there can 
be no reasonable doubt — the unfortunate white men who sank the shaft on 
the gold-vein, were seized and tied to the missile-scarred trees and riddled 
with arrows and bullets. Those wdio excavated the old "prospect holes" 
likewise fell victims to the fiendish Sioux, and not one of these first dis- 
coverers was left to report the fate of the others. So many links are lost 
from as many family circles, and the mourning friends of the victims, 
whoever they may be, are to-day alternately hoping and despairing over 
the long silence of their loved ones. Better they should never know just 
how^ the gloomy messenger came to seal their lips forever ! 

DEADWOOD. 

The city of Deadwood is located at the northern extremity of the Black 
Hills, at the confiuence of Deadwood and Whitewood creeks, and about 
eight miles in the interior — or from the foothills where the latter stream, 
enters the prairie. The position, while not at all eligible for a settlement 
of any kind, much less for a city of the pretensions of Deadwood, has 
been so improved by artificial means, that not only are a surprisingly large 
number of people housed within its limits, but the tout ensemble is very 
pleasing to the eye. Originally the narrow gulch admitted of but one 
street, but excavations and cribbing have gradually added one after another 
until the entire north hill is now^ cut up into avenues, like steps, appropri- 
ately named, and lined with pretty little cottages and dwellings of more 
elal)orate designs. The southern hill, owing to its alu'uptness, is valueless 
for building sites, and, with the exception of one or two crudely constructed 
log cabins, regular "old timers," which threaten to wreck themselves and 
residences below at any moment, its breast is bare and uninviting. The 
city proper, as generally understood, (there being no legally defined limits), 
is about one mile long, and contains at the present time about six thousand 
inhabitants, the male portion being engaged almost exclusively in mercan- 
tile and other legitimate business pursuits. Deadwood, although not im- 
mediately at the mines, is universally considered the metropolis of the 
Hills, being the county seat of Lawrence county, and having the land 
office, courts, banks, express offices, stage headquarters, signal service 
station, and commission houses — conveniences found nowhere else in the 
hills — and in addition contains many lar^e jobbing houses, retail stores of 
every description ; two excellent hotels ; two daily, one weekly, and one 
semi-monthly papers ; two churches — Congregational and Catholic schools ; 
the telegraph ; a fire department ; efficient constabulary force ; a large and 
most excellent society that is daily increasing ; and all the concomitants of 
a well regulated and prosperous community. 

Three daily mails, a money order post office, the telegraph and banks, 
present facilities for conducting business, equal with those elsewhere 
enjoyed. Comfortable dwellings, marts of trade of all kinds, keeping 



102 The Golden Northwest. 

stocks of graded qualities to suit the tastes and purses of every one, the 
poor as well as the rich ; a charming climate, plenty of vigorous exercise 
and universal prosperity, makes life in the Hills both pleasant and 
healthful. 



THE BIG HORN COUNTRY. 



Comprehended within the designation of the Big Horn country is in- 
cluded all the vast region lying between the Yellowstone on the north and 
the Sweetwater on the south, and between the Black Hills on the east and 
the degree of longitude defining the line of Wyoming and Idaho on the 
w'est.* 

The Big Horn region has ever been regard as the most delightful place 
place of residence by the American Indians. It has been for a long time 
the theatre of an unceasing and cruel w^ar between the Crows and 
Shoshones on one side and their bloody enemies the Sioux, waged for the 
possession of the country. The saying of the Crows that " The Great Spirit 
only looks on other countries in the summer, but here he lives all the 
year," beautifully expresses the savage appreciation of the most favored 
section on the continent. Indian traditions inform us that many years ago 
whites came to the region and trapped the wild animals for furs, but be- 
yond this they took something from the ground which they seemed to prize. 
This excited the jealousy of the natives and they slaughtered the intruders 
to a soul. At a later date when the aborigines learned the value of gold 
strangers were more suspiciously watched than ever, the former deter- 
mining to hold their hunting grounds at all hazards. During the Pike's 
Peak and Montana excitement parties who traveled in or near the region 
found " color," and from that time on the knowledge of its wealth, only 
waiting development, has been spread over the world. Since General Crook 
took command of the department large numbers of settlers have been en- 
abled to go in, and at the present time camps, trading posts and mail 
routes are established pretty well throughout the section. Gold has thus 
far been found in various quantities and degrees of purity in nearly all the 
streams between the Powder and Yellowstone rivers. Shipments of gold 
from the Big Horn were made last year in small quantities. The pros- 
pects on the mountain tributaries of the Tongue river have recently 
l)riglitened materially through the discovery of some excellent diggings. 
There are between 3,500 and 4000 prospectors and miners scattered along 
the various streams, some of whom are doulitless destined to l)ecome the 
Floods and Mackey's of the future. 

* Strahorii's Guide Book. 



The Golden Northwest. 103 



CHICAGO. 



The great Western Metropolis has been so fully advertised in a thousand 
ways, its history has been so often and extensively written, and its devel- 
opment during the forty years in whicdi it arose from an obscure frontier 
Indian trading and military post, to become the fifth city of the United 
States in size, and the second in commercial importance ; all this is fam- 
iliar to almost everybody in the civilised world. The story of the Great 
Fire, too, the most extensive conflagration in history, is told in every tongue 
on every continent, and the islands of the sea. How the greatest of 
American cities, in a single day was laid in ashes, and how, within two or 
three brief years, Chicago had been rebuilt in more substantial and costly 
manner than before. Too many histories, books and pamphlets have been 
published giving a thorough exposition of Chicago, to render it necessary 
or proper for us to go again over a ground already so well trodden, and we 
shall therefore refer to the general features of the Western Metropolis, 
only briefly, devoting our attention more particularly to special matters, 
identified with the objects of this work. 

During the early French explorations, a small trading post was estab- 
lished at the mouth of the Chicago river, but it must have been soon 
abandoned, as no trace of it was found by the later settlers. Sometime 
between 1795 and 1800, John Kinzie established a trading post at the same 
place, and in 1804 the U. S. Government built Fort Dearborn on the south 
side of the mouth of the river. In 1812 the entire garrison was massa- 
cred by the Pottawatamies on the bank of the lake, near where Sixteenth 
street now ends. After this nothing more was done towards settlement 
until 1816, but the massacre had given the locality a bad name, and pio- 
neers avoided it for many years. Not more than fifteen cabins could be 
found here in 1830, and the population, a majority of whom were Indians 
and half breeds, did not number to exceed a hundred persons. Not a 
frame building was erected until 1832, and the first brick building went up 
the following year. Chicago was organised as a town in 1833, and incor- 
porated a city in 1837, the population then aggregating 4,170. In 1847 it 
had increased to about 17,000, and at the census of 1850 it was 28,269. In 
1860 it had grown to 109,263 ; in 1865, 178,539, and in 1870, 299,370. At 
the present time it is estimated at 500,000. 

The advantageous geographical position occupied by Chicago at the ex- 
treme end of lake navigation, naturally brought the railroads of the West 
to its doors, and such connections once established, the trade of the city 
grew so remarkably that every succeeding line of railway from the Atlantic 
westward, sought an entrance to the wonderful city of the West. In this 
way the interest was extended, and as the great country lying beyond 
Chicago in every direction was settled, that city found itself in control of 
the trade and commerce of the entire region ; a control that she yet enjoys 
and is likely to for a long time. 



104 



The Golden Northwest. 




JHL NL'\\ CtUItl UOL&L 



Before the great fire 
Chicago had a Court 
House which was con- 
sidered as handsome a 
structure as any great 
city need have. It was 
l)uilt of the yellow Joliet 
marble, and in general 
features corresponded to 
the prevailing taste of 
Western people a couple 
of decades ago. Des- 
troyed by the conflagra- 
tion, steps were almost 
immediately taken look- 
mg to the replacement 
of the Court House. In 
1875 work was com- 
menced and part of the 
building is half way 
complete. We present an accurate view of the edifice as it will appear 
when completed. The site is the same occupied by the old Court House,, 
and is the block opposite the Sherman House on one side, and the Cham- 
ber of Commerce on the other. It is bounded by Randolph, LaSalle, 
Washington and Clark streets. The structure is composed of two wings, 
one of which is to be occupied by the city, and the other by the county 
government. The entire cost when complete will probably reach the sum 
of $3,000,000 or $4,000,000. The construction is under the supervision of 
Messrs. Egan & Hill, a well known firm of Chicago architects, whose de- 
termination is to give this city the handsomest and most convenient 
capitol l)uilding in the United States. That they will be able to do so no 
good citisen of Chicago doubts for an instant. 

The Tremont House has a history intimately connecting it with that of 
oo. Three times it has been burned, as many times rebuilt, and 
always rising from its ashes larger and more perfect. It was erected in 
1833, and burned in 1839 ; rebuilt and opened to the public early in 1840. 
It was again burned in July, 1849. During the month following, the 
the foundations were laid for the structure consumed in the general con- 
flagration, October 9th, 1871. This was a brick building, completed in 
1850. and opened as a first-class hotel, which reputation it maintained to 
the last. In 1861, it was remodeled and improvements made at a cost of 
$100,000. The Couch Estate suffered heavily in the great fire, the Tre- 
mont being but one of their many buildings swept away. The question of 
rebuilding the hotel was held open for some time, but was finally deter- 



The Golden Northwest. 



105 



mined, and the well-known architect, Mr. John M. Van Osdel, set to work to 
prepare the plans for a hotel on the old site which should be second to none 
in the country, and the "palace" hotel of Chicago. The construction was 
entered upon with the energy and enterprise that has always characterised 
the representatives of the immense Couch estate. 

The new hotel occupies the block bounded by Lake street, Dearborn 
street, and Couch Place, covering nearly 50,000 square feet of ground, and 
has a frontage of over 500 feet in the very heart of the city. It is six 
stories high above the basement, crowned with towers of two stories. The 
fronts are of the beautiful and durable Amherst sandstone, elegantly 
carved, yet of solid and massive appearance. The style is the French 
Renaissance, and in architectural beauty it surpasses any building in the 
city, refliecting great credit upon the taste and skill of the architect, and 
the liberality of the owners. Upon the main or ground floor is the grand rotun- 




THE TBEMONT HOUSE. 



da, fifty by one hundred feet, occupying the central court, surmounted and 
lighted by domes of ornamental glass. It is approached by the main en 
trance from Dearborn street, through a spacious corridor, highly orna- 
mented by fitted columns, panelled ceilings and polished black walnut 
wainscoating ; also by a similar corridor from the ladies' entrance on Lake 
street. The ceiling is finished in panels of stucco, the floor with variegated 
marble tile. The office for the reception of guests is opposite, and in full 
view of the entrance, and a model of architectural and mechanical art, the 
counter and other cabinet work being more costly and elaborate than ever 
before put in a hotel. Opening from the Lake street corridor is the ladies' 



106 The Golden Northwest. 

reception room, from which hy an easy tlight of stairs or the passenger 
elevator, access is had to the grand parlors and the stories al:)ove. At the 
right of the grand entrance is the news parlor, and next beyond the public 
bathing and barbers' department. To the left is the restaurant — the hotel 
being conducted on both the American and European plans. Off this are 
private rooms for the accommodation of parties desiring special service. 
Adjoining the grand rotunda is the exchange, forty by one hundred feet, 
the floor covered with Wilton carpet. The counter, mirror frames and 
wainscoating are the finest specimens of wood-carving ever before used in 
finishing any public place. 

Ascending from the office by the grand staircase, or the elegant carpeted 
flight from the ladies' entrance, we reach the second story. In the north- 
east corner is the principal dining hall, sixty-four feet in width by one hun- 
dred in length, beautifully lighted by ornamental glass windows on three 
sides ; the ceiling, over twenty feet in height, wrought in stucco, which, 
with the polished wainscoating of black walnut, and the mosaic marble 
floor, makes the construction of the room unsurpassed. 

On the Dearborn street side, and opposite the grand stairs, are the 
gentlemen's parlors, three in number, connected as required by sliding 
doors, finished in the same costly style, Turkish rugs on the floors in 
maroon and green, in harmony with the velvet furniture and drapings. 
Beyond these on the south are three committee rooms, a convenience 
found nowhere else, and very much appreciated by the guests and citisens. 
On this floor are several private suites, parlor and bed rooms with bath 
and toilet rooms connecting, furnished in the handsomest and most com- 
fortable manner. 

The second floor is devoted entirely to private apartments for guests, 
and is furnished in suites of parlors and one or more bed rooms, and toilet 
rooms connecting, and in single chambers, each having hot and cold water, 
marble mantels, grates, etc., all perfectly lighted and ventilated from the 
street or the central court, furnished with solid black walnut and velvet, or 
polished rosewood with satin, draperies and carpets matching or contrast- 
ing tastefully. The same description will apply to the floors above, there 
being no difl'erenee in the construction and the furnishings, carpets, up- 
holstery, draperies, mirrors, mantel ornaments and gas fixtures all of the 
same costliness, ditt'ering only in shades of color. The building is practi- 
cally y?7'e })roof, being constructed with all modern means for protection 
from damage by that element. Standing water-pipes, with thirty open- 
ings, having hose attached of sufficient length to flood with water every 
room and corridor, connected wdtli a stationary steam fire engine, the 
floors all laid in cement, the partitions filled in w'ith brick, preventing any 
possibility of fire spreading in case of accident. 

There are three hundred rooms, giving ample accommodation for four 
hundred guests in a first-class unequalled way, and although located so 
conveniently in the busiest quarters of the city, central to all the great de- 



The Golden Northwest. 



107 



pots, the banks, wholesale stores and places of elegant shopping and 
amusements, it is yet more quiet than any other hotel — the neighborhood 
being entirely rebuilt — the streets on all sides up to the grade and finished 
with the new Nicholson pavement. 




C rLVEE, PAGE, HOYNE i CO. S BUILDING. 



108 The Golden Northwest. 

Of the rich and intiuential business houses of Chicago, especially those 
which being crippled by the lire, started immediately again with new life 
and vigor, many have since grown to proportions they never dreamed of at- 
taining. The reader will find an illustration of the business premises of 
such a house, one which we think worthy of special notice as being repre- 
sentative of Chicago push and enterprise, and an instance of wdiat may be 
the ultimate outgrowth of humble means and efforts, rightfully applied 
through patient, toilsome years. The house of Messrs. Culver, Page, 
Hoyne & Co., Nos. 118 and 120 Monroe street is one of the largest manu- 
facturing stationery, bookbinding and printing establishments in the coun- 
try. The nucleus of the present business was formed in 1848 when Will- 
iam Stacy commenced a small bookbindery, which was bought out by H. 
Z. Culver and D. W. Page in 1854. In the following year M. A. Hoyne be- 
came a partner, forming the firm of Culver, Page & Hoyne. From this 
time on to 1866 the firm were eminently successful in business ; so much 
so in fact that they were compelled to start a printing office to avoid the 
losses and annoyances incident to sending out their work to fifty small of- 
fices. Accordingly Mr. Charles W. McCluer, was added to the concern in 
charge of the printing department. Prosperity continued until the fire in 1871 
when the property of the firm was entirely destroyed. Scarcely a year, how^- 
ever, had elapsed before the fine structure depicted in our cut stood almost 
alone in the street. The new building is substantially and handsomely 
built of brick, five stories in height with very high ceilings and fitted with 
all modern improvements. Each fioor is about 185x45 feet in size. The 
basement extending under the whole Imilding and under the sidewalk and 
alley is principally used for storing the vast amount of goods, paper, etc., 
and in it is placed a battery of boilers and the fine engine which runs the 
large elevator ruiniing from basement to roof, furnishing all the power re- 
quired in the various departments and heats the entire building by steam. 
The first fioor is entirely occupied by the stationery store of the house, and 
is one of the largest and finest in the world. The second floor is rented to 
the Prairie Farmer Company. The third is used for storing goods in 
original packages and cases. The fourth is the largest and most complete 
printing establishment on one fioor in the United States. The mammoth 
book bindery of the firm is located on the fifth floor. In all the above de- 
partments a force of nearly two hundred men is employed. The firm per- 
sonally are well known and prominent citizens. The senior member Mr. 
H. Z. Culver is prominently connected with insurance interests as presi- 
dent of the American Insurance Company, and Messrs. Hoyne, Page and 
McCluer are equally prominent commercially and socially among the solid 
men of Chicago. 

CHICAGO AND MICHIGAN LAKE SHOKE EAILEOAD. 

Among the many iron tentacles that stretch out from Chicago, the 
greatest railroad centre in the world, grasping and drawing into its mouth 



The Golden Noethwest. 109 

the commerce of the nations, the Chicago and Michigan Lake Shore rail- 
road is not the least important. Its main line extends from New Buffalo 
to Pentwater, 170 miles, with a branch from Holland to Grand Rapids, 25 
miles, and another from Muskegon to Big Rapids, 55 miles. Trains with 
sleepers attached run direct from Chicago via this line to Grand Rapids, 
Ada Holland. The distance from Chicago to New Buffalo is 66 miles, and 
from thence to Grand Rapids 115 miles, A number of thriving commei'cial 
and manufacturing towns are stations on this road : among them may be 
mentioned New Buffalo, St. Joseph, Benton Harbor, Hartford, Bangor 
(where there are large furnaces and smelting works). Grand Junction, the 
crossing of the South Haven and Kalamazoo branch of the Michigan Cen- 
tral R. R. ; Richmond, near the mouth of Kalamazoo river, is the point of 
departure for a small steamer that runs to East Saugatuck, making close 
freight and passenger connection between this road and that place, six 
miles from Richmond on the lake. At Holland the Chicago and Lake 
Shore R. R. crosses the C. & M. L. S. R. R. Robinson is an important 
lumbering point. Nunica is the crossing of the Detroit and Milwaukee 
railroad, and is a joint station of the two roads. Fruitport, a prominent 
station, has the advantage of a celebrated mineral spring, and is an already 
popular and growing summer resort. Between this point and Grand Haven, 
and Perrysville, a small steamer makes frequent trips. Muskegon, another 
important point on the road, is the greatest lumbering centre in Northern 
Michigan, and the company transacts a large carrying Inisiness in hauling 
loss to mills between Muskegon, Big Rapids, Whitehall, Montague, Shelby, 
Mears and Pentwater. 

On the branch from Muskegon to Big Rapids are the heavy lumbering 
points of Twin Lake, Holton, Fremont Lake, Worcester, Alleyton, White 
Cloud, Traverse Road, Hungerford, and Big Rapids. 

The equipment of the Chicago and Michigan Lake Shore road is ample 
and excellent : it has 250 flat cars, 150 box cars, 72 coaches, and 27 engines. 
The road is well graded, tied and ironed, and generally is regarded by ex- 
perts to be in as satisfactory a condition as any line of railway in the 
country. Both its freight and passenger traffic are extensive and rapidly 
increasing under the energetic administration of Geo. C. Kimball, Esq., 
general manager, an officer whose executive abilities command for him 
the respect of the railroad profession, and the confidence of the public who 
have been benefited by the advance in general usefulness made by the road 
since he took hold of its affairs. Mr. Kimball's task is lightened by his 
good fortune in having an excellent staff of experts about him. Mr. C. M. 
Lawler, assistant superintendent, is a railroad official of high standing 
and ability, and justly popular with the friends and patrons of the road. 
Mr. A. M. Nichols, general freight and passenger agent, is also a well 
known, respected and able officer. The united labors of these executive 
officers have rendered the road one of Chicago's most important rail con- 
nections. 



110 



The Golden Northwest. 



ST. JOSEPH, MICH. 

St. Joseph is a handsome lake port and village situated on Lake Mich- 
igan, at the mouth of the St. Joseph River, in latitude 42 ; it is 62 miles 
from Chicago, and about 100 from Milwaukee, with both of which cities 
daily steam communication is maintained during the season of navigation. 
The St. Joseph liiver traverses the county from the south-east through 
the city of Niles and the villages of Buchanan and Berrien ; the Paw Paw 
Kiver from the north-east through the village of Watervliet and near 
Colona, and the two rivers unite near the mouth of the former, forming 
wdth the lake two peninsulas. The St. Joseph is navigable for river 
steamers for the distance of 100 miles and the Paw Paw for thirty. 

The village of St. Joseph occupies a plateau fifty feet above the level of 
the lake and river, on the i^eninsula above described. The site is one of 
the most picturesque and attractive in the wdiole Northwest, possessing the 




PARK HOTEL. 



further advantage of being entirely free from malarial or zymatic diseases 
of anykind, and considered one of the most healthy localities in the country. 
The population of St. Joseph according to the latest census was 2,718 and 
is steadily growdng. The village has a tine Union School well sustained, 
and seven church societies, all of which are believed to be in a prosperous 
condition. One of the principal features of trade at this point is the im- 
mense fruit 'interest centreing at St. Joseph from the surrounding region, 
conceded to be the finest peach growing region in the West. In addition 
to the principal crop, large quantities of small fruits such as grapes and 
blackberries are shipped to Chicago daily during their season. 

St. Joseph is the most popular tishing resort anywhere within two hun- 
dred miles of Chicago. From the pier, off the ])ar and up the river, 
according to wind and weather, hundreds of people may be seen every day 
busy catching the most splendid specimens of bass, pike, pickerel, cisco. 



The Golden Northwest. Ill 

muskalonge and perch. The bass fishing at this point is epecially fam- 
ous, it being a common thing to hook black bass weighing from three to 
five pounds, and by the hundred. Everything requisite to the enjoyment 
of the sport is found on the ground. There are plenty of good boats, bait, 
and tackle. Above all the angler finds at St. Joseph something almost a 
vara avis, one of the finest and liberally kept first-class hotels in the West, 
The Park House conducted by Mr. Sam. Brown, one of the best hotel 
managers in the country, was formerly the handsomest and most costly 
private mansion in the vicinity. It is quite commodious enough to royally 
lodge a large number of guests, and its location is one of the most eligible in 
the village. Embowered amidst noble forest trees that almost hide it from 
sight, it is surrounded by splendid grounds, carefully trimmed and gar- 
dened. Nothing could be more agreeable to sportsman or family than the 
quiet refinement of this little palace by the lake, where every delicacy one 
finds at a Delmonico's, is served to enrapture the palate, and where rest 
is sought in apartments tit for princes. The drives in the neighborhood of 
St. Joseph are charming and in every respect it is as attractive a Summer 
resort as can be found anywhere in the Golden North-West. 

BENTON HAEBOR. 

Benton Harbor is a lake village extensively engaged in the Michigan 
fruit trade, situated on Lake Michigan near St. Joseph. The early history 
of the place is unimportant, but a good many years ago it began to be 
noticed that fruit orchards in the vicinity invariably escaped the frosts 
that killed fruit in other and not distant localities. In consequence of this 
discovery, land was largely bought up at high prices, and devoted to peach 
culture, which interest alone has made Benton Harbor a place of consider- 
able importance. In 1860 a village was laid out on a flat near the marsh 
which extends to the lake, and it was at tirst called Brunson Harbor. A 
canal twenty-five feet wide and eight feet deep was completed to the lake 
in 1862. In 1865 the name of the village was changed to Benton Harbor. 

Recently the canal has been widened to fifty feet, making it navigable 
for vessels of considerable size. There are a number of fine business 
buildings in the village, several substantial places of worship, and a large 
Union School built at a cost of $30,000. The population of Benton Har- 
bor is in the neighborhood of 1,200. 

Among the principal advantages which Benton Harbor enjoys commer- 
cially, the greatest is the intimate and extensive connection maintained 
with the metropolis by the steamer line of Messrs. Graham, Morton & Co., 
Benton Harbor, Mich., and 48 River street, Chicago. The popular and fast 
passenger steamer Messenger runs regularly, leaving the company's dock 
at the foot of Wabash avenue every morning at 10 o'clock, Saturdays and 
Sundays excepted ; on Saturdays it leaves at 11.30 p. m. Returning, the 
steamer leaves Benton Harbor every evening at 9 o'clock, Saturday ex- 
cepted. The trip, occupying five hours either way, is the pleasantest 



112 The Golden Northwest. 

across the lake. It allows parties from Chicago a long afternoon in Ben- 
ton Harhor, followed by a pleasant night's rest in a comfortable Messenger 
state room, reaching Chicago bright and early in the morning. As an 
extra inducement to travel, the management, while maintaining the vessel 
(and all in their line) in a style of unexceptionable liberality, have put the 
fare down to the low fignre of $2, berth included, for the round trip, or 
$1.50 each way. Freights are carried as low by this as by any other line. 
Freights are also carried by this excellent line for Hager, Riverside, Colona, 
Watervliet, Hartford, Bangor, Breedsville, Grand Junction, Millburgh, 
Pipestone, Eau Claire, Berrien Centre, and Shanghai. Messrs. Graham, 
Morton & Co. also do a general dockage and storage business at reasonable 
rates. The following fine propellers run from their dock : the E. C. 
Brittain, for Saugatuck ; the Douglas Trader, for Pentwater ; and the 
Snook, for Whitehall and Montague. 

If the reader ever has occasion to visit either St. Joseph or Benton Har- 
bor, he should not fail to patronise the Messenger. 

THE HObSAC TUNNEL ROUTE. 

Not only is the great Hoosac Tunnel route between Chicago and Boston 
and the East interesting because of the pre-eminence it has gained over 
rival lines in popularity and traffic, but as w^ell because it is identified with 
one of the greatest engineering triumphs of history. Excepting only the 
Mount Cenis Tunnel, the Hoosac Tunnel is the largest in the world, and 
the largest in the United States. The Mount Cenis Tunnel, which was 
constructed jointly by the governments of France and Italy, is seven and 
one-half miles in length, while the Hoosac Tannel is four and three-fourths 
of a mile in length, or 25,081 feet. The present cost of the tunnel, 
including interest, is estimated to be about sixteen million dollars. 

The arch of the Hoosac Tunnel is twenty-six feet wide, and from 
twenty-two to twenty-six feet high, thus affording ample room for a double 
track, and insuring the greatest safety. At the west entrance to the tun- 
nel (North Adams) is an elegant granite facade, the superior workmanship 
of which attests the thorough and substantial character of the entire 
structure. Twenty-five hundred feet from the w^est end of the tunnel is the 
west shaft, w-hich is three hundred and eighteen feet to the outlet at the 
top ; while twelve thousand two hundred and forty-four feet from the west 
end, or not quite midway through the tunnel, is the central shaft, measur- 
ing fifteen by twenty-seven feet, and being one thousand and twenty-eight 
feet from the bed of the tunnel to the summit of the mountain. While 
passing through the tunnel eastward, the traveler's attention will be at- 
tracted successively to three great lights, the first indicating that one- 
quarter of the distance has been accomplished, while the third indicates 
that three-fourths of the distance has been overcome. 

The grade of the tunnel is about twenty-six feet to the mile from either 



The Golden Northwest. 113 

portal to the central shaft, so that while approaching the central shaft the 
grade is ascending there, and descending thereafter. Thus it is, and hy 
the aid of a drain cut into the solid rock bed, and \1irying from one or two 
feet in diameter, that the vast volume of water, estimated to be about six 
hundred gallons per minute, forces its way out of the tunnel, mingling 
with that of the Hoosac river. 

At its greatest altitude from the bed of the tunnel, the Hoosac Moun- 
tain is about nineteen hundred feet. When, a few years ago, the journey 
over the mountain was accomplished by stage, from two to three hours 
were required ; now the passage through the tunnel can be made in about 
ten minutes. Thus time and space are annihilated ! Thus the barriers of 
nature give way to the advancement and enlightenment of civilisation. 

From a commercial point of view, if from no other, the completion and 
successful operation of the Hoosac Tunnel must be regarded as one of the 
grandest achievements of modern times. Judging it as a whole, as the 
result of the labor and industry of nearly a quarter of a century, it stands 
a living monument to the enterprise and progress of the American people 
— a statue to the triumph of engineering skill — an emblem of enlighten- 
ment, of civilisation, of Christianity, of liberty. 

THE MICHIGAN CENTEAL EAILWAY. 

The advantages of travel over the lines of the Michigan Central railway 
are numerous. It is known to be the most direct, the most comfortable but 
beyond this it the only east and west line that runs the magnificent and 
convenient dining cars wherein the hungry traveler may eat at his leasure, 
and likewise at the rate of forty miles an hour. This system does entirely 
away with the excessively disagreeable jump and run experiences of rail- 
way station feeding. Moreover the cuisine is comparable only with that of 
the very first hotels. • All meals are served at the moderate price of seventy- 
five cents each, while the wine card tempts the epicure with every standard 
vintage and tap known to the most exclusive club. It should be remem- 
bered that a view of the Niagara Falls can only be obtained l)y this route, 
the crossing of the Niagara river being in such a position that passengers 
are enabled to enjoy the most perfect view of the whole grand scene while 
reclining comfortably in their seats. Both for freight and passage the Mich- 
igan Central is the most popular east and west route connecting Chicago 
with the seaboard. 

THE LAKE SHORE AND MICHIGAN SOUTHERN RAILWAY. 

The Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Railway is one of the oldest 
as it is one of the most important connections with the East, that Chicago 
possesses. Intimately connected in controll and management with the 
New York Central Railroad, it offers one of the finest routes imagina])le to 
and from New York and the Atlantic seaboard. It is the only all rail 



114 The Golden Northwest. 

route to the East that avoids l)oth ferries and transfers. Both as to freight 
and passenger l)usiness, the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Railway 
is as important a hne as any in the workl ; its advantages as a trunk Hne 
are, however, of greater interest to the readers of this work than are other 
considerations. Through sleeping coaehes run between Chicago and New 
York, via Albany, on every express train. This line passes a greater num- 
ber of great points of interest to the lousiness man than perhaps any other 
of equal length in the United States. All the great commercial cities of 
Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York, and the Eastern and 
Middle States may be quickly, conveniently, and comfortably visited by the 
Lake Shore route. 

THE GEAND TRUNK LINE. 

The Grand Trunk railway is one of the most important links that con- 
nect the west and east socially and commercially. It enjoys advantages 
superior to those of other lines in controlling a vast traffic both to and 
from American and Canadian termini. For passengers it is by several 
dollars the cheapest route to Boston and points in Maine, New Hampshire, 
Vermont and Massachusetts. As a pleasure route the Grand Trunk offers 
attractions superior to any possessed by any other line. It connects with 
river steamers for the beautiful trip to the Thousand Islands and the St. 
Lawrence river to Montreal, shooting the world renowned Rapids of the 
St. Lawrence by daylight. This is the direct route via Montreal to Quebec, 
St. Johns, Halifax, White Mountains, Portland, Boston, Lake Champlain 
Lake George, Hudson river, and seaside resorts. Through Wagner cars 
accompany every evening express train from Chicago to Buifalo and Boston 
without change, and Pullman Palaces are attached to the 9.00 A. M. through 
express from Chicago to Portland, making the entire run without change. 

THE CANADA SOUTHERN RAILWAY. 

The lines of this enterprising and powerful railway corporation, extend- 
ing from Detroit and Toledo to Buffalo, with their Niagara extension, form 
the only route from the West running directly to Niagara Falls. They 
afford passengers an opportunity of witnessing the Horse Shoe Falls and 
the mighty rapids from the train, and land them on the Canadian side, 
within one block of the Clifton and Prospect Houses, where the finest view 
of the Falls is obtained. Among all the iron roads leading to and from the 
western metropolis, none are more worthy of note than the Canada South- 
ern Railway. 

THE GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY OF CANADA. 

The Great Western Railway of Canada, which runs, in connection with 
the Michigan Central Railway, through Canada from Detroit to Suspension 
Bridge at Niagara Falls, is one of the finest trunk lines on the continent, 
and magnificently supplies the great link which otherwise would be miss- 
ing in the direct route from Chicago to the East. , Everything pertaining 



The Golden Northwest. 115 

to the freight or passenger service of the hue is ample and excellent, and 
the Great Western deservedly ranks among the most necessary and valua- 
ble railway connections in the great Chicago system of east and west lines. 

THE CHICAGO, ALTON AND ST. LOUIS LINES. 

The great network of railways extending from Chicago south, south- 
west and west, controlled and operated by the Chicago, Alton and St. Louis 
Railway Company, is a magnificent monument to western enterprise. Be- 
yond question the metropolis owes a great deal of its commercial supre- 
macy to the trade fed to it by the numerous lines, branches and connec- 
tions of this gigantic organisation. We can only refer briefly to the 
advantages and facilities offered for freight and passage by the Chicago, 
Alton and St, Louis lines, as the limit of our available space renders an 
extended notice impracticable. Luxurious and costly dining cars are 
attached to all through trains, upon which passengers may take their 
meals comfortably at the moderate rate of seventy-five cents per meal, 
the table being equal in every respect to that of the best hotels. Magnifi- 
cent reclining chair cars have been recently placed on the lines of this 
company, for the advantages of which first-class passengers are not charged 
anything extra. No other line running between Chicago and Kansas City 
furnishes these reclining chair cars, and no other line runs Pullman Palace 
sleeping cars and dining cars between Chicago and Springfield, and Chicago 
and St. Louis. The Chicago, Alton and St. Louis is by over two hours the 
quickest route to Kansas City, Denver, Pueblo, and all points west of the 
Mississippi river. It should not be forgotten that the superior attractions 
offered to the traveling pul)lic by this company, are, to a considerable ex- 
tent, due to the technical skill, energy and enterprise of Mr. J. C. McMul- 
lin, General Manager, and Mr. James Charlton, General Passenger and 
Ticket Agent, at Chicago. Both of these gentlemen stand at the head of 
their profession in the departments of the service they represent, and have 
earned reputations for statesmanlike administration of which they may 
excusably feel proud. In addition, both Mr. McMullin and Mr. Charlton, 
personally, are among the most popular of our high-rank railway officials, 
enjoying the confidence and respect of the Inisiness men and society gen- 
erally in Chicago. 

THE CHICAGO, ROCK ISLAND AND PACIFIC RAILROAD. 

The Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific Railroad, one of the most colossal 
organisations of the kind in the world, is the great freight and passenger 
carrier between Chicago and the W^est. Its great overland express train 
between Chicago and Omaha is an institution almost as well known as the 
line itself. A peculiarity of these overland trains is that they are accom- 
panied, between Chicago and Omaha, by the new and elegant dining and 
restaurant cars recently completed by the road at "'a heavy cost. In these 
flying palaces delicious meals are served from full bill of fare for 75 cents, 



116 The Golden Northwest. 

and two hours' time allowed to each. Between regular meals anytliiiig in 
tlie market is served a la carte, at moderate rates, while the buffet is 
stocked with the finest ales, wines, liquors and cigars to Ije obtained in 
the country. These, among other inducements, render the Chicago, Eock 
Island and Pacific the most comfortable and jjopular truidv line in the West. 

H. C. TIFFANY & CO. 

One of the reasons Chicago has pushed its way ahead of rival cities, is 
no doubt because it has been notoriously the most lavish in its use of 
printer's ink of any community in the country. Thus it has kept itself 
extensively before the eye of the people here and wherever print is read by 
man. This peculiar and enterprising policy has given birth to some of the 
largest printing and publishing enterprises in the world, representative of 
which it may not be improper to refer to the house of Messrs. H. C. Tif- 
fany & Co., Nos. 151 and 153 Fifth avenue, Chicago, the leading establish- 
ment of the whole West in the lines of which it makes specialties, and the 
equal of any other house in the general departments of the printing and 
publishing business. The firm make a specialty of insurance sup- 
plies of all descriptions, and keep in stock a larger assortment of insur- 
ance blanks (both fire and marine) than can be found anywhere 
else in the United States. Companies and agents are sujiplied at moderate 
rates, and samples of any of the blanks are furnished on application. 
Some of the finest work in the way of book and periodical publication is 
daily turned out in large quantities at the establishment of Messrs. H. C. 
Tiffany & Co. 

THE AMEEICAN INSUEANCE COMPANY OF CHICAGO. 

The commercial metropolis of the West has many excellent and sub- 
stantial financial and insurance institutions which are at once a credit to 
the city and to the public spirited citisens to whom they owe existence. 
We could not hope to review all of these, pleasant to us and interesting to 
the reader as the task would be and we must content ourselves with a few 
remarks, emanating from a disinterested source, regarding one of our most 
popular, ably managed and prosperous insurance companies. We quote 
the remarks of the New Y'ork Independent, apropoH of the American Insur- 
ance Company of Chicago : 

" Wisdom and duty are often inseparable, in a sense — we may say 
always ; since it is the part of wisdom to do our duty, and duty to act the 
part of wisdom. 

It is wise to protect one's property against unforseen accidents and 
destruction, as well as our duty to provide for our families. This is an old 
story ; nevertheless true, and as pertinent to-day as when Adam was 
thrown upon his own resources from the Garden of Eden. That our pro- 
perty will or will not be destroyed by fire we do not and cannot know. 
That somebody's jH'operty is being destroyed by fire every day of the year, 
and will be so long as time continues, no one will dispute. That a fire will 



The Golden Northwest. 



117 



not occur when we are waiting and watching, is unquestionably certain. 
At the dead hour of midnight, or in the Hash of hghtning, or pereiiance 
when husband and protector is far away in the field, should the demon 
strike, and we are without security, we can only exclaim: Too late! Wis- 
dom and duty both dictate that no person with home and property should 
be without insurance in some one of our many good and reliable insurance 
companies ; and among all we know of none more worthy of the confidence 
and patronage of the farmer and those owning dwelling houses than the 
American Insurance Company, of Chicago, confining its business to farm 
property, dwelling houses, churches and school houses ; writing no policies 
in any of the large cities, and only $5,000 on any one risk — making great 
loss by sweeping conflagration impossible. With cash assets amounting to 
$904,224.81, being $470,305.67 more than is necessary, under the insurance 
laws of fifty per cent, reserve, to pay all liabilities and reinsure all out- 
standing risks ; in addition to wdiicli this company has over one and one- 
half million of dollars of installment notes not yet due." 

The following statement of the amount of cash received by twenty-four 
companies doing the largest business in the State of Illinois during the 
year 1877, as shown by the official reports on file in the insurance depart- 
ment of that state, places the "American" at the head of the list ; and also 
shows the total receipts in Illinois, Indiana, Missouri, Wisconsin, Iowa, 
and Ohio by the same companies : 



NAME OF COMPANY. 



American 

Homo 

.Etna 

Hartfoid 

Rockford 

Traders' 

Phfjenix 

Ins. Co. of North Am 

Phenix 

File Association 

Aii'i'iciiltiu'al 

Liverj)o(.)l, London and 

Giobe 

Continental 

Girard 

German American . . . 

N. W. National 

German 

Royal 

American Central. . . 
Hpringfield F. & M. . 

Royal Canadian 

Lycoming 

Germania 

N. B. and Mercantile 



HOME OFFICE. 



Chicago 

New York .... 

Hartford 

Hartford 

Rockford, 111.. 

Chicago 

Hartford 

Philadelphia . . 
Brooklyn , . . . . 
Philadelphia . . 
Watertown, N. 



Y. 



Liverpool 

New York 

Philadelphia 

New York 

Milwaukee 

Fi'eeport, 111 

Liverpool 

St. Louis 

Springfield, Mass 

Montreal 

Muncie, Pa 

New York 

London 



$226, 
211, 
210, 
182, 
158, 

13:;. 
io:i. 

100, 
90, 

87, 
87, 

85, 
85, 
81, 
74, 
7^, 
6!), 
67, 
65. 
61, 
58, 
57, 
51, 
50, 



072 
808 
181 
643 
142 
240 
221) 
852 
83i) 
!)83 
403 

503 
218 
067 
121 
390 
862 
718 
881 
441 
418 
872 
684 
482 



$651,897 
721,130 
687,91!) 
496,124 
215,527 
164,436 
456,658 
367,034 
328,948 
255,022 
102,444 

229,680 
427,023 
150,576 
244,870 
174,144 
139,601 
276,785 
188,589 
177,760 
73,126 
118,200 
144,093 
209,213 



Lumber, Doors, Sash, Moiildino-, and Paper, 

GENEKAL OFFICE, LA CROSSE, WIS. 

BItANCH TABDS : 

Minn. Lanesboro, Minn. Albert Lea, Minn. 

Spring Valley, " 



Eushford, 

Inisours, 

Dexter, 

Good Thunder, 



Peterson, 
Fountain, 
Aldeu, 
Brownsville, 



Wykoff. 
Delavan, 
New Albion, 



Iowa. 



Mapleton, 

Lansing, 



Iowa. 



Warner House, 



THIS FAVORITK H(n'SE, frontiug ou Court 
Park, on which is located tlie celebrated Mineral 
Spring,— with accdnniiodiitious lor one hundi-ed 
and fifty guests, has been leased for a term of 
years, by the present proprietors, and re-fitted 
and newly furnished. 

The house is open summer and winter, for 
pleasure seekers and invalids, as well as the gen- 
eral imblic. It is well calculated to suit the com- 
fort and convenience of invalids and families, 
having 115 rooms, 40 of which are en unite and on 
the ground floor. The season proper will open the 
first of June and close the first of September. - 

HOLBKOOK & NICHOLS. Proprs. 



W. Stevenson Johnson. 



J. B. Gribler. 



JOHNSON & GEIBLEE, 

ATTORNEYS AT LAW, 

()() 1:. Washington Street, 

< )ttices, 17, IS and 19, CHIC-^O-O. 



HON. EMEBY A. STOBBS, Of Coumel. 



—Correspondence in all Foreign Languages. 
Practice in all the Courts. 







X 



Four pages Colored Plates. A whole Library in itself- 
Invalnabh in any family, and in any school. 

3.000 Engravings ; 1840 Paces Quarto. 
Nat ion ill I'ivtorial I) i <• t i <»n a ry , 

1040 Pages Octavio. 600 Engravings. 
The sale is '^O times as great as the sale of any 
other large Dictionery. Contains one-fifth more 
matter than any other large Dictionery. More 
than Hl»,()i)0 1 i)i>ies have been placed in the public 
schools iif tlie I'nited States. 

Recommended by State Superintendents of Schools 
in 35 different States. Contains 3000 Illustrations, 
nearly 'A times as many as any other Dictionary. 
Published by G. & C. MERRIAM, Springfield, Mass. 

Established 18.02. 



MO^S ANDERSON, 

Importer and Jobber of 

nDK."ir a-ooiDs, 

Notions, Clothing-, 
Woolens, Etc. 



Xj^^ CIE^OSSE, T7;7-IS. 



TREMONT HOUSE, 



THE PALACE HOTEL. 



COR. LAKE AND DEARBORN STREETS. 



AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN PLANS. 



AN ELEGANT RESTAURANT ATTACHED TO THE HOUSE. 



Prices have been reduced to $8.00 PER DAY FOR ALL ROOMS 
above the parlor floor, except fro)it rooms and rooms witJt baths. 

Rooms on the European plan at $1.00 to $2.50 per day. 

The ajjpointments of the TREMONT are not surpassed bfi ani/ Hotel 
in the country. 



JEWETT WILCOX, 

MANAGER. 



JAMES COUCH, 

PROPRIETOK. 





BOAT FOLDED* 

WE take pleasure in calling y oil r 
attention to our Sportiiif^, Folding 
Canvas (Boat, "AUDUBON" {pat^ 
ent applied for), as slioicn by above 
cut. 

We claim it is the best boat for the 
purpose intended ever offered, being 
strong, durable, light and easily 
transported. It can be easily folded 
and unfolded withOUt any tOOlS, 
simply -with tlie hands, and packed 
•K'itiiin a space of three feet in length, 
ten inchesin width and fifteen inches 
in depth. A boat twelve feet long, 
tliirty inches ii>ide and twelve inches 
deep, including bottom boards, guiz^ 
wale and keel, will weigh jj lbs., and 
has capacity to safely carry three 
men. 

In designing this boat our object 
has been to get it up in such a man-= 
ner that, while we sacrafice nothing 
in utility or beauty, we make it so 
cheap as to be -within the reach of any one conte^nplating a 
snnimer tour. It can be ])acked in an ordinary sized trunk. 



PRICE, of a 12-Foot Boat, as described, 



with Oar Locks, 



$20.00 each 
25.00 each. 
1.00 each. 



Folding Paddle, as per cut. . . - - 

We solicit correspondence from, any one desiring further 
particulars or information as to larger sized or decked over 
boat. w. W. BARCUS <fc CO. Sole Manufacturers, 



282 SOUTH WATER STREET, CHICAGO. 



Ziii CKOSSS BXJSZITSSS COZiZiSGS. 

$35. Life Scl:LOla,rsli.ip. $35. 

The public will notice the difference lietween a SchoUirnhip and a Life Schohirf<hip. 
Tlio first entitles you to go to school until you have finished the coiir.se of i^tudy in that 
collerje. If you ever want to gt> back and rc^veiw, you must pay exira for it. Th(?se 
scholarships say time unlimited — which jneans that you go to aiid from the college as 
many tini(>s as you see tit and pay your railroad fare, but when you have completed the 
course you arc done. Now a Life ,SV7io/(/ /■«/*//* entitles you to go to school as long as you 
see fit and at any time you choose, either aftei- having finished the course, to review, or 
at any othei" time. 

SCHEDULE OF TEKMS, ETC. 

Literary Department. — Reading, SpelUng, Grammar, History, Geography and 
Arithmetic. 

Commercial Department. — Book-keeping, by single and double entjy, Penmanshi]), 
Conunercial Law, Business Correspondence, and Business Practice. 

LiTEEABY DePAKTMENT. TeLEGKAPH DEPAKTMENT. 

(DAILY EECITATION.) (DAY SCHOOL.) 

1 month flu. (Id ■'! months $2o.0(» 

2 months 15.()(» <> months 40.(10 

W months 20,00 (evening kchool.) 

f luonths 25.00 •' ""'I'tl^^ *20.00 

(! months ;^0.0(l 

Life scliolarship entitles the holdcu's to 

COMMEKCiAL Depaktment. instructions iu all branches taught in Com- 

(DAiLY BEciTATioN.) luercial and Literary Departments. Stu- 

1 month $12.50 deiits holding Life Scholarships in Com- 

2 months $20.00 mercial Department will be cuititled to six 

:{ months 25.00 months instruction in Telegraph Depart- 

Life Scholarship :^5.00 ment, upon })ayment of $;jo" Good board 

Books, Blanks, Stationery, &c from $(> from $:100 to $.3.50 per week, or m clubs 
to $8. " from $L75 to $2.25. 

diplomas for best system of 

J. L. WALLACE, ^Proprietor. 

MANUTACTUBERS OF 

THE MINNEAPOLIS 

DOl^BLE BLAST MIDDLINfiS PI IIDTEK. 

DESIGNED FOB BOTH HAKD AND SOFT WHEAT MIDDLINGS. 

1st. — The improvements consist of an UNDER BLAST FAN, looaced at the head of machine, direct- 
ly under the shaker frame, and provided with air chambers extending along sidesof machine, throutJh 
which the blasts is conducted till it enters the machine by openings on either side, and is regulated by 
valves so that the blast may be applied strongest at head or tail of cloth as may be necessary. By admit- 
ting the blast in this way. the fine mi;ldlings are not carriedover into the coarse middlings or returns, 
which has been the fault with all umler-bliist nuichines as heretofore constructed. 

2d. — The blast, after entering the machine, in manner described, is forced up through a moveable end- 
less apron, constructed of zinc, or other suitalde material, in such manner as to create sharp currents of 
air, a distance of two inches apart, extending latterly up through the cloth. 

3d. — The apron is mounted on drums or band wheels, and is driven by a band from a pulley on fan 
shaft, which rotates said drums or band wheels, and carries the top side of apron alternately from head 
to tail of machine, while t)u' air passes up through in shariijets, and sweeps the light material over tail 
cloth, or is carried away to tlie dust room by the upper fan which is located directly over the cloth, and is 
supplied with suitable tubes, valves, etc. , for the regulation of the air. 

4th. — The sharp jets of air, passing up through and moving from head to tail of cloth, keepthemeshes 
open, and enable this machine to operate on very soft middlings and such as could not be made to flow over 
the cloth of ordinary machines. 

DiMEN.sioNS.— Length, 8 feet, 10 inches ; width, 4 feet, 2 inches ; height, 5 feet, 8 inches ; diameter of 
driving pulley, ^ inches ; face, 1 inches ; motion, 700 revolutions per minute. 

Refebences.— C. A. Pillsburv & Co., Minneapolis, Minn. ; Keys Bros., Frontenac, Minn. : Union 
Mill Co., Detroit, Mich. ; Champion Mill Co., Detroit, Mich. ; W. F. Cahill & Co., MinneapoUs, Minn. 

Address, P. O. Box .'ilio, Minneapolis, Minn. 

Send for Descriptive List and Price Circular. 



This College holds both Wis. and Minn. State Diplomas for best system of book-keeping and husinesn 
practice. 



LAKE SIDE COTTAGES 



WISCONSIN, 

P. O. Hartlaiid, . . _ Waukesha Co., Wis 

Suninier Hotel located on North Shore Pewaiikee Lake, 22 miles west of Milwaukee 
Sjileiidid Boating and Fishinif aeeonimodatioiis foi- one hundred guests. 

CRAWFORD ACADEMY, 

CKAWFOKD, COOK CO., ILL. 

I=rirLcipa,l, -^^. IjE3Nr3Nr03>T, 1^. .^^. 

Author of "Abstracts of Latin Parshig and Analysis," Lennon's " School Programme.' 

Eefekences. — J. F. Stuart, Ass't Supt. Am. Ex.; M. L. Comstock, Prof. Math., Knox 
CoUesre, E. S. Alhro. Board of Trade, Chicago; M. T>. Broadway, John Crawford, D. S. 
Wald'en, H. M. Tyler, Amherst College, Mass. 

W. S. JOHNSON, I NEWTON BATEMAN, 

Attorney at Law, 99 Washington St. | Ex-Superintendent Public Instruction, 



N EW?I A L 

HOUSE, 

MILWAUKEE, WIS. 



The Coolest Summer Eesort in the U. S. 




PARK HOTEL, 

ST. JOSEPH, MICH. 

TO THE TRAVELING PUBLIC. 

St. Joseph, Mich., May IS, 78. 
Having assumed proprietorship of the Park Hotel, at this place, and furnished it 
with (n'erything that modern skill affords, I am now prepared to entertain my friends and 
the public generally, in the most comfortable and homelike hotel in the State. 

Fine and large sample rooms for Commercial Travelers on first floor. Hot and cold 
water baths, beautifid groimds, located in the business portion of the town, and will be 
kept as a fir.st-class hotel. 

SAM. H. BROWN, Proprietor. 



THE 



National Life Ins. Co., U. S. of A. 

WASHINGTON, D, C. 
CHARTERED -^^^ BY CONGRESS 



CISH CJPITIL, - 
Issets, Jan. 1st 18/8, 
Surplus, 



a u 




$1,000,000,00 

$4,023,362,04 

$1,300,814,83 



ALT. THIS SUKPLUS IS SECUKITY ADDITIONAL TO THE RESEKVE, WHICH IS CALCULATED 
ON A 6 PER CENT BASIS. 

RATIO OF ASSETS TO LIABILITIES 14:8 PER CENT. 

THE LARGEST CAPITAL OF ANY LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY IN THE WORLD. 
PERFECT SECURITY. LOW R.^TES OF PREMIUMS. DEFINITE CONTRACTS., 

EMERSON W. REET, President and Actnary 

J. ALDER ELLIS, Vice President. JOHN M. BUTLER, Secretury. 

SAMUEL M. NIVKERSON. Chainitan Eiiumre and E.recutive Committee. 

ECONOMICAL, CLEANLY AND LABOR SAVING. 





Photograph from File in use containing over 800 Letters. 



Perfect Self-Indexing and Self-Binding 

LETTER AND PAPER FILE. 

The only Perfect Lettev File ever invented. It is so coustruetod tliiit letters and other papers may be 
i)ist(ndaiic<iush,i indexed and hot'nd ivithuut the use of nmcila.t,'e, paste, linoks, wires, needles, or any 
of the ordinrrvcnniliersonie uietluids. Letters are not torn or otherwise mutilated, and can be removed 
and replaced iiistanth/ at pleasure: they are securely enclosed in licleuidif. convenient form for instan- 
taneous reference Postal cards and letters of all sizes and shapes can l)e filed to^,'ether with equal facility, 
and in such a manner thatthey can be referred to, /■((jjfi//;/ removed, and replaeed- without delaij, trouble 
or mutilation. 

Manufactured by 

CULVER, PAGE, HOYNE & CO., 

]VE.A.3Sr"U"F.A.CTXJPlIKra- ST.A.TI03SrEE,S, 
fiend for Price Lisit. 118 & 130 MONROE STREET, CHICAGO. 



RAILWAY HOUSE, DodQ-e HoUSC 



PKAIKTE WU CHIKN, WIS. 



FIKST-CI.ASS IN ALL ITS APPOINTaiENTS. 



All Trains .stop lit- if for Meola 



C. L. COLMAN, 

GENERAL OFFICE AND MILLS. 



BRANCH YARDS AT 

Hokah, Rushford, Whalau, Lauesbwo, Prestou, 

Fountain, Spring Valley, Grand Meadow. 

Alljert Lea, Alden, Wells, Minnesota 

Lake, Eastou, Delavan, & Winnebago. 






(i. A. I) HAKE. Proprietnr. 

Free Bus, and Good Sample Rooms np-town. 



At the Jiinetiun of the C. M. A: St. P. diid Wis 
Valley Bailroads. 



TEJRIyrS $2.00 FEE. r>.A.^5£'. 



Chapman House, 



ns^oxjisriD cit"^. 



Upper Lake Minnetonka, 



Minnesota. 



This NEW HOTEL is now ready lor guests. Lo- 
cated at one of the most i^icturesque points 
on this beautiful lake. 

The new and handsome Passenger Steamer will 

run regularly to this house, from 

Wayzataand Excelsior. 

Ciood FishiiKj, Good Boats, Bait and Tackle 
always on hand. 

S. A. CHAPMAN. Proprietor. 



Nagawicka Cottage, National Hotel, 



<iEO. B. AUBLEY, Proiirietoi-. 



ivfl:Eisr.A.sn.A., "WIS. 



Fishing and Hunting Parties will find this a Con- 
venient House to put up at. 



H. TURNER, Proprietor 



te:^siv«s rBE;.ti.soiT.£--^i-: 



Koats, Bait and F'ishiug Tackle always on hand. 



Free Bus to and from the Trains 



Vpen all tlic year. Finest Fishinij in Wisconsin. 
Table unexcelled. Terms reasonable. 



K ( ) D D 1 n S n (3 U S C , few^tji^ee, wis. 



ILA. CI^OSSE, "WIS- 



J. G. ROBBINS. PROPRIETOR. 



Maurice W. Fowler. Clerk. 



i>E'W'-a.tjk:ee, "'^atis. 

Waukesha Co. 

Located lil miles from Milwaukee, on the C. M. & 

St. Paul Railway, and four hours 

ride from Chicago. 

Board by the week, SIO to Si2, By the Day, $2, 

The management will endeavor to keep Tip the 
reijutation of its cuisine, which it has heretofore 
obtained, and will spare no efforts in catering to 
the wants and comforts of its guests. The Steam- 
er "Lady of the Lake," will make two regular trijjs 
from the hot9l daily. The celebrated Oakton 
Springs Water us 3d for all culinary purposes, 
and on draught for the use of guests. 

J. P. VEDDEK, Manager. 



Established 1874. 



Incorporated 1878. 



H. C. TIFF AMY & CO. 

U^rinters, Publishers & ^tationers 



OFFICE STATIONERY, 



Nos. 151 & 153 FIFTH AVENUE. 



Chicago. Jll. 



T 






EVERY FACILITY FOK THE PROUUCTION OF 



FIRST-CLASS WORK. 



Estimates furnished on any class of Printing, Blanks or Books. 



The press-work on the Golden Northwest was done by our House. 



Chicaner) to Benton Harbor, 

The centre of tlu> PciU-h and Apple Oivhards. The Popular and Fast Passenger 
Steamer Messeiig'er, will i-un permanently, leaving our Doek foot of Wabash Avenue, 
every mornuig at 10 o'eloek, Saturdays and Sundays excepted; on Saturdays will leave 
at 11:80 P. M. Returning will leave Benton Harbor every evening at !t o'clock, Saturday 
excepted. This is the best five hour's trip across the lake, it gives parties fi-om Chicago 
an afternoon at Benton Harbor, and after a good night's sleep, reach Chicago in the 
morning. Fare, berth included, $2.00 for the round trip, or f l.TiO each way. Freights 
«.s loiv as by any other line. 

l^'Until June 1st each season, the MESSENGER will make only thi-ee trips a 
week. Leaving Chicago Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturday evenings at 11 .HO; and 
Benton Harbor, Monday, Wednesday and Friday evenings at 9 o'clock. 

Freight also eai-ried by this line for Hager, Riverside, Colona, Watervliet, Hartford, 
Bangor, Breedsville, Gi'and Junction, Millburgh, Pipestone, Eau Claire, Berrien Centre, 
Shanghai. 

We also do a general dockage and storage business at reasonable rates. The follow- 
ing Propellers run from our Dock: R. C. Bi'ittain, for Saugatuck, and Douglas Trader 
for Pentwater; Snook for Whitehall and Montague. 

^3 tit^^:e:ti stp^eiet, oi3:ic-<f^<3-o, ixjI^. 



C. A. WILLIAMS, F. H. PEASE. 



,00, $2.50, $3.00 I=EI^ ID^^-^r. 



MANSION HOUSE 



WAUKESHA, WIS. 



c E isr T i^ .rft. L x, ■'sr XuOCj^t:ejd. 



AVILLIAMS & PEASE, Proprietors. 



Grand Trunk 

RAIL\VAY 

The Shortest and Most Direct Route Between all Points 



EAST AND WEST 



MONTREAL, 

NEW YORK, KINGSTON, LONDON, SAENIA, 

BOSTON. TOEONTO, GUELPH, DETEOIT, 



PASSENGEBS FOR ALL POINTS IN 

MICHIGJxJ^, WISCOJ\^SIM, Mlj\'J\'ESOTA, ILLIJ^OIS, 
IJ\''mAJ^A, MlSSOUm,KAJ<!SAS, J^E(B(RASKA 

AND THIS 
WILL FIND THIS THE 

iVIOST PLEASANT AND DIRECT ROUTE. 



LESS CHANGES THAN BY ANY OTHER ROUTE. BAOOAOK 
CHECKED THROUGH. 



First - Class Refreshment Rooms, 

On this BOUTE where ample time will be allowetl for Meals 

SMOKING CARS ATTACHED TO ALL TRAINS- 



CLOSE CONNECTIONS 



At Buffalo sr 
At Detroit ; 
At Chicago 



Erie and New York Central Kailroads for for New 
Philadelphia and Washington. 

with Michigan Central and Detroit and Milwaukee Rail- 
oads, and 

with all railroads leaving that City. 



TXiE 



Chicago, 
Milwaukee 
and St. Paul. 

RAIL\¥AY. 

Traverses a finer country, passes through more important business cities and pleasure 
resorts, and affords views of finer and jjrander scenery tlian any othier Nortliwestern line; 
having two through lines from Chicago to St. Paul and Minneapolis. 

It runs three daily express trauis, in each direction, between Chicago, St. Paul and 
Minneapolis. Two of which are thrt)ugh trains, with palace coaches, sleeping cars and 
nicely upholstered second class cars. These trains run via Milwaukee, Oconomowoc, 
Watertown, Portage, Kilbourn City, Tomah, Sparta, LaCrosse, Winona. Minneiska, Wa- 
basha, Read's Landing, Lake City, Red Wing, Hastings, St. Paul, Fort Snelhng, and 
Minnehaha Falls — to Minneapolis. 

(3ne train with tlirough coaches and second class cars between Milwaukee, St. Paiil and 
Minneapolis, and sleeping cars between Chicago and McGregor. 

This train passes through Milwaukee, Waukesha, Palmyra, Whitew^ater, Madison, 
Prairie du Chien, McGregor, Cresco, Austin, Ramsey, Owatonna. Faribault, Northfield, 
Farmington, and to St. Paul via. St. Paul Junction, and Miimcajiols via Fort Sndling and 
Minnehaha Falls. 

There are four express trains between Chicagt) and Milwaukee ; two between Ashland, 
Stevens Point, Menasha and Green Bay, Oshkosh, Ripon, Berlin, and Winneconne — 
Beaver Dam, Fox Lake, Horicon; two between Milw\iukee and Prairie du Chien; two bet- 
ween Milwaukee and Janesville; one between Milwaukee and Monroe; and three between 
Milwaukee and Madison. 

Above trains daily each way (except Sundays). 

The through line between Chicago and St. Paul is of BEST STEEL BAIL and all 
trains are furnished witii Westinghouse Impro\ ed Automatic Aii- Bi-ake, Millers' Platform 
and Couple]-; and all other modern impro^'en^ents, for safety, comfort, and luxury. 

It is the only Northwestern Line connecting in same depot in Chicago with any Eastern 
or Southern Line; and its dept)t there is the most conveniently located with reference to 
the hotels and business portions of the city, and such is the case, at Milwanke. St. Paul 
and Minneapolis. 

Boston Office — 228 Washington street. E. L. Hill, Agent. 
New York Office — M()3 Broadway. I. A. Smith, General Eastern Agenl. 
Chicago— Passenger Depot, corner Canal and West Madison Streets; Freiglit Depots, 
coi'ner Union and Carroll streets. City Offices, 61 and ()3 Clark street. T. E. Chand- 
ler, Passenger Agent; C. R. Capron, Freight Agent. 
MiiiWAiTKEE— Depot Corner Reed and South Water street, City Office, 400 East Water, 

corner Wisconsin street. A. M. Ingersoll, Ticket Agent. 
Minneapolis — Ticket Office at the New Passenger Depot, corner Washington and Third 
avenues. South, and No. 9 Nicollet House. G. L. Scott, Ticket Agent; C. H. Hathe- 
way, Freight Agent 
St. Paul Depot— Corner Jackson street and Levee. City Offices, 118 East Third st. 
cor. Jackson st. J. A. Chandler, General Agent; Chas. Thompson, Ticket Agent. 

A. V. H. CARPENTER, 

Geveral Paaaenger and Ticket Agent. 



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O-eruera-l ^assexigfer -d^g-ean-t, _ _ - Boston.. 

O-erLl "'sX;^esteran. ^a-ssearxgrer ..A-greri.t, - Cliicagro. 







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jriTLTiJxrijri-njnLii 



,nijijrixiJxrLrtxxjxri4xr»JxnutTJTLrijririj^ 

FROM 

CECIC-A-OO 



MILWAUKEE 



ST. PAUL ^^1' 



NNEAP(1LI8, 



THE ONLY C0NIINU0U8 LINE IS THE J] 



Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul J 






W. &.r STENCH, 

'. East, '^--- "^^f, 

THE MILWAUKEE ROUTE. 




LB Mr '05 



